11 June
Hard to leave our beautiful spot in the Sierra Nevadas, perhaps we’ll return sooner than we think:)
Heading back to the coast, en route to Estepona or Gibralter.
Through Penos Genil, the little town in the valley below our camp along the River Genil and back through the mountains, manicured hills of olive, orange and almond trees.
Down to the Med following the coastal road via the Costa Del Sol and coastal towns, Malaga, Torremolinos, Fuengirola, Marbella and Estepona. A beautiful long sandy coastline sprawling back into the hills. Hard to believe this area was formerly made up of a series of fishing villages, today the region is a world-renowned tourist destination. Has a great climate and is also a great place for avid golfers. It’s no wonder this region has the biggest concentration of golf courses in Europe, in fact it’s now nicknamed ‘Costa Del Golf’. Estepona bought back wonderful memories for us, we were parked on the beach in our Kombi camper when we were kids. Not surprising that we didn’t recognise much, however we were lucky enough to recognise two artesian wells on the beach which may have been where were parked all those years ago. Decided to bypass this region, beautiful but full on, we headed to Gibraltar!
Into La Linea and found a great Camper Park on the Marina (12.50 euros). Passports in hand, we walked through customs, over the airport runway, into Gibralter. Felt quite bizarre and even more bizarre seeing English brand names on the stores and pubs here. Dominated by the Rock, the town has a charm of its own.
Decided to go for an early evening climb to see if we could make it to the top. Climbed the series of stairs onto the windy narrow path where we met the monkey family happily eating alongside the remains of the fourteenth century Moorish Castle.
Through the woods, steep in parts and up to the top! What a stunning panorama including Tangier in Morocco. Made a quick return trip to beat the dark! Had a very late fab fish dinner at the little traditional restaurant on the Marina.
12 June
Heading inland to El Puerto de Santa María which we’ll use as a base to visit Cadiz. Headed back through La Linea and San Roque, a much greener drive in contrast to the stark mountain ranges. Rolling tree covered hills, small lakes, cultivated fields, little farm hamlets with cattle, donkeys and horses. To Pam’s delight about 20 kms from Jerez, fields and fields of sunflowers dominated the landscape. Stunning!
Passed the salt pans to the coast and El Puerto de Santa María and Camping Playa Las Dunas (20 euros, from 15 June ACSI does not apply, rate goes up to 28.75 euros). Found a nice shaded pitch under the pine woods with sandy surface. The camp is opposite the beach and is an ideal base to catch the ferry to Cadiz. There is a an excellent restaurant at the entrance, has swimming pool, supermarket and good facilities.
Walked along the beach promenade into the old town. Traffic free with cobbled streets, white washed houses and charming Andaluz architecture - wrought iron and tiles. The city was conquered in 711 by Arab (Moors) from North Africa who renamed the city Alcante, Port of Salt, due to the old salt industry. However in 1260 it was conquered and renamed. Christopher Columbus’s second expedition to the Americas set sail from here.
El Puerto de Santa María is famous for its light, dry sherry (known as ‘fino’) and has the third largest the bullring in Spain. Took in all the sights including the bullring which dates back to1880 and has space for 15,000 spectators. It’s now no longer in use but is being renovated. The twelfth century, Castle of San Marcos - a fortified church and the Basilica Menor Nuestra which was the main church from the end of the fifteenth century.
Enjoyed seeing the storks peering out from their nests on top of the steeples and high roof tops.
13 June
Caught the morning ferry to the ancient port city of Cadiz. The city boomed in the sixteenth century as a base for exploration and trade. It has more than 100 watch towers traditionally used for spotting ships.
Strolled through the markets on the Palacio de Congresos to the stunning eighteenth century Cadiz Cathedral located in the lively square. Enjoyed watching a talented flamenco dancer performing to the crowds.
Walked the waterfront promenade to the Castillo de San Sebastian, strolled the mixture of lovely plazas branching off onto narrow cobbled lanes.
Passed elegant and funky alfresco eateries and a food mall with lots of yummy traditional food to sample. Tapas, paella and sangria are very popular here. Paella and a cheeky sangria, 6 euros!
Early evening caught the ferry back to Lefty.
14 June
Catch up day. Chatted to our Brit neighbours from Kent.
In the evening, strolled along the beach promenade passed the beachfront eateries including Romerijo, famous for their shellfish, to the other end of the city. Passed the train station and back through an area of elegant housing and hotels. Around 11pm discovered the ‘eating streets’ crammed with local enjoying pre-dinner drinks and tapas.
15 June
Heading inland to Seville through a gorgeous display of sunflowers.:) Agricultural farming - vineyards, olive trees as well as tiny olive plants protected by cylinders, cultivated fields and hay bales. A white washed hilltop village in the distance, via Los Palacios.
Skirted Seville to Gelves and headed to Port Gelves (15 euros). A great spot on the marina with shower, toilet, washing machines and ideally located to bike into Seville.
Late afternoon we found a bike track following the River Guadalquivir, onto a path through Gelves, over the bike bridge onto a series of bike paths into Seville. Seville is the capital of southern Spain’s Andalusia region and famous for its flamenco dancing.
Thought we’d do a ‘recce’ of the city before returning tomorrow.
Crowds of people are gathered in the square near the Alcazar Castle, we thought there was Royalty visiting. Turns out a famous Spanish football player is getting married at the Alcazar Castle, consequently most of the Castle complex is barricaded off. No probs, back tomorrow.
A beautiful Cathedral nearby and strolled some of the cobbled alley ways before crossing the Rio Guadalquivir with the tower, ‘Torre del Oro’ on one side, back to our bikes. Turned out to be a thorough ‘recce’ as we ended up circling the city about five times before we found the bike route back to camp.
Enjoyed a brilliant evening with two ‘Kiwis’ who parked next to us in their new camper van. Lots of laughs with Ron and Margaret from Howick.
16 June
Another beautiful day! After coffee with Ron and Margaret we biked into Seville. Stuart and Susie our Geordie neighbours, followed us on their electric bikes as we know the route very well :) Parked the bikes near the river and we went exploring.
A beautiful city with lots of vitality, wonderful architecture, stunning landmarks and monuments, lovely eateries and squares. It’s the city of Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro. Col didn’t manage to find a barber!
Walked ‘our feet off’, took in all the sites, enjoyed the flamenco dancing and the cobbled alleyways with flower balconies and patios, the tranquil parks and gardens.
There were long queues at the ornate Alcazar castle, built under the Moorish rule so we walked through the gardens and didn’t join the queues. The Gothic Seville Cathedral with its minaret turned bell tower is the site of Christopher Columbus’s tomb, its spectacular.
A favourite was the beautiful Plaza de España in the Parque Maria Luis built for the Ibero-American Exposition in 1929 and the eighteenth century Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza bullring. Found a funky paella eatery and enjoyed a tasty traditional bean and pork paella. Walked the River Guadalquivir - palms, colourful houses, alfresco eateries and the remnants of the Moorish fortified walls, Torre del Oro (Golden Tower), which originally enclosed the city, along its banks.
Early evening the four of us biked back to camp. A fab day!
Off to Portugal tomorrow!
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