Thursday, July 21, 2016

France.. Jura, Vienne, Charante

6 July

Left our camp following the signs to Lake Lausanne, as we get closer to the lake the land ‘flattens out’ into farmlands and fields of corn and wheat. Across the border and into France following a picturesque country road through farming hamlets and passed ski lifts up to the surrounding mountains. Onward to St Antoine for a picnic lunch and into the Department de la Jura.
  
The Jura Mountains stretch in an arc from the Franco-Swiss border from the Rhine to the Rhone.  A region of forests, lakes and vineyards, dairy farms, yellow wine and cheeses.  As we pass through pretty stone villages around Bonnevaux, Tour de France memorabilia decorates the streets - looks like the Tour has been or is on it’s way here!  Through thick pine forests and pastoral landscapes, harvesting is in ‘full swing’ and the sunflowers look set to bloom in a week or so.   

Our camp is near the little village of Montbarrey, close to Dole and Arbois.  Camping ‘Les 3 Ours’ situated on La Loue river with swimming pool and restaurant.  Chose a pitch on the river (22.40 euros for river pitch.  ACSI discounts no longer apply, as it’s the busy summer season).
Went on a recce to check out bike routes and enjoyed our salmon steak overlooking the river.

7 July

Lounge lizards today, swimming in the pool, reading our books and making friends with the local bunnies.








8 July

A pretty bike ride through fields of corn and maize, passed hay bales and sunflowers about to bloom.  Through little stone villages and onto the ‘route des vins’ and vineyards growing down the slopes, over the bridge and into Arbois.  Arbois is a wine producing town and home to Louis Pasteur who invented pasteurisation and developed the first rabies vaccine in the nineteen century.

Wandered around this attractive and artistic town, decorated with colourful ribbons and hand made flowers.  There are many wine specialist shops with meticulous window displays and  degustation caves (wine cellars for tasting).  We were told the ‘yellow wine’ produced here is a strong flavoured white wine which goes well with cheeses, it tastes a bit like sherry!   Savagnin grapes are harvested late and their sugar-saturated juices left to ferment for a minimum of six years and three months in oak barrels.  Ate our picnic lunch overlooking the River Doubs and took a route via the forest back to camp.  A 40kms scenic trip.

9 July

Cycled a pastoral route through little slate-roofed stone farming villages to the medieval town of Dole, birth place of Louis Pasteur. 

Crossed over the flower bridge and ate our lunch overlooking the ‘boats for hire’ on the River Doubs.  



Went for a scenic stroll along the Canal des Tanneurs, with it’s alfresco eateries, flowers, bridges and beautiful old stone buildings.  






Headed back to camp  along the canal, crossed over the River Doubs passing some swimming horses, through the corn fields and little villages into the forest.  A great ride with lots of variety and a good work out.  46kms and we were back in Montbarrey and our camp.

10 July

A catch up, swimming day! Two of the ‘local bunnies’ now known as ‘Hazel and Harry’, are regular visitors, enjoying their carrots and digestive biscuits for breakfast!  Lots of activity on the the river - there is a fire squad practicing rescue procedures (after finally managing to get their boat started), fishermen, kayakers, swimmers including horses and dogs, and locals ‘picnicing’!

11 July 

Left our camp and began making our way west across France to our booked camp near La Rochelle.  We crossed into the region de la Burgogne (Burgundy), through Chalon-sur-Sôane to a great ‘Aires’ just outside the town of Paray-le-Monial situated on the Canal du Centre.  

The canal connects the Loire with the Saône and is parallel to the river Bourbince.  Went on the ‘scenic walk’ to the gardens on the outskirts of town then over the bridge and the beautiful eleventh century Basilica which dominates.  Many pilgrims visit the Basilica, religious sanctuaries and churches here.  The Basilica looks even more spectacular lit up in the evening!  Twenty campers parked for the night in our 'Aires'.



12 July 

Heading towards Montluçon, travelling through the rolling hills of Burgundy, passed farming hamlets and hay bales, harvested wheat fields and vineyards to Bezenet where we had a picnic alongside the river. 
Into the region de la Limousin and the rural Creuse Départemente in the northeast.  
The Haute-Vienne in the west and the Corèze in the southeast also make up Limousin.  Through little hamlets to St Vaury and a wonderful ‘Aires’ with a lake, near the town of Jarnage. Met 'Iceman' the camper dog! 



Went for a pretty walk into the countryside, through farmlands, passed charming old farmsteads.  Fifteen campers parked for the night.





13 July

Continued our trip west towards Poitiers into the Haute Vienne Départemente towards Limoges and then the Charente-Maritime region.  A pretty rural drive through characteristic little towns to the historic town of Confolens in the northeast of the Charante Départemente.  Confolens is surrounded by water, the Vienne river on one side and the Goire on the other.  It developed from the fifteenth century thanks to the expansion of it’s tanneries and the renown of it’s market fairs.  Since the twentieth century it’s annual folklore festival of world dance and music attracts dancers, musicians and tourists from all over the world.
Our GPS inadvertently took us down a no exit street, however with the assistance of the residents, we crossed over the Vienne river and found our camp, Camping ‘Des Ribières' on the Vienne River (20 euros). 

Walked into town for an explore, it’s cobbled streets, bridges and stone buildings add to it’s charm.  There is a large British presence here, evidently the British and Dutch have been buying property in and around this town since the twentieth century.  The town is getting ready to celebrate Bastille day!  

14 July  It’s Bastille day!  (The storming of the Bastille on 14 July 1789)

 Biked around Confolens environs!  It’s quiet on the roads today, the ‘locals’ are enjoying the public holiday.  Climbed up to the old Chateau overlooking Saint-Germain-de Confolens, then a hilly ride to the little hamlet of Esse and back through Confolens. 

The Pompiers (fireman) are putting on a wonderful spread to celebrate Bastille Day!  Steak and chips, a band and a fireworks display later in the evening!  There are long tables laid out in the Square and firework platforms have been placed across the river in readiness for tonight!





Later in the evening we returned to the Square, the tables are full and everyone is enjoying their meal and the band.  The town is buzzing!  There is music on the other side of the bridge and people are waiting for the fireworks to commence.  Stood on the bridge and met Hillary, a Brit  who has lived in France for the past thirty years.  11pm and enjoyed a spectacular fireworks display over the river Vienne synced to classical music.

15 July

Heading west towards Niort and La Rochelle in the Charente-Maritime region, passed fields of corn and sunflowers nearly in bloom.  As we get closer to the coast, the sunflowers are looking beautiful in full bloom, little villages with white washed buildings and red Spanish-tile roofs dot the farmlands.  Into the Marais Poitevin and ‘Camping La Garenne’ a cute camp about 30kms from La Rochelle, surrounded by sunflowers near the little village of Courçon. 


It has a bar and pool, and ‘pain au chocolat’ on order.  (19euros).  We’ve a large shady pitch and are near to the cycle paths and villages along the canals.  Marais Poitevin a national park, is a bird-filled wetland dubbed ‘the Venice Verte' (green Venice) due to its maze of waterways covered in green duckweed around spring and summer.  The marshlands are interspersed with villages and woods threaded by canals and bike paths.  Thierry and Bridget run the camp with their son Kevin helping out this week, great people who enjoy a laugh!

We’ll spend the busy season here exploring the area and improving our French over the next few weeks.




Thursday, July 7, 2016

Switzerland

1 July

Now in Switzerland camped at 'Camping Schwimmbad Muhleye', ten minutes from Visp town centre and the train station.  Awoke to a beautiful clear day, perfect for a trip to Zermatt and the Matterhorn.  




Walked into town and purchased two tickets to Zermatt on the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (144 swiss francs return for two).  Stunning scenery as the train passed through the valley and gorges of the Visp River.  Most of the track is very steep and the engines use a third rail with cogs to prevent the train slipping.  There are villages and chalets scattered all along the route.  

The trip took sixty-five minutes, we arrived at Zermatt at 9am.  Zermatt is a mountain resort known for it’s skiing, climbing and Alpine recreation.  Walked up the car free main street where there are upscale boutiques, luxurious hotels to modest chalets and eateries along the way geared up for the ‘rich and famous’.  


Suddenly the pyramid shaped iconic snow capped Matterhorn peak appeared before us, tall and towering over the town.  The Matterhorn is 4,478 metres high and is only Western Europe's twelfth highest peak.  It straddles Switzerland and Italy and it’s first ascent was in 1865 on the Swiss side.  Sadly four of the seven climbers in the summit party fell to their deaths and there have been five hundred since.


We followed the Matterhorn trail into the mountains and hiked the base of the Matterhorn for about 8kms enjoying the views of the mountains and valleys  passing cute little restaurants and ski villages, descending to complete a circular route back to Zermatt.

Had lunch overlooking the River Visp and the mountains before 'training' back to camp after a wonderful day!







Had a quick look around Visp then returned to camp for a refreshing swim in the camp pool!








2 July


Enjoyed the camp pool, chatted to our French neighbours and ‘pigged out’ on crisps!  Surprised to see the family from Sweden that were also camped at Lake Orta.  




Had a great catch up with Robert, Lina, Norton and Ester 










3 July

Took the bike path behind the camp to where the river Visp and river Rhone converge then followed the river Rhone for 14 kms passed farmland and terraced vineyards on steep slopes, through little villages and into the woods surrounded by the Pennine Alps.  Evidently the vineyards grown between Visp and Visperterminen flourish at altitudes of up to 1,150 metres - higher than anywhere else in Europe.   


4 July  

Off to Interlaken today!  Twisted our way up through the mountains to Goppenstein where we caught the ‘vehicle carrying’ train over the mountains, an alternative route to the Grimselpass.  (27 swiss francs).  Drove to our camp opposite Lake Thun, Camping Alpenblick, with a bistro and free bus passes to Interlaken for the duration of our stay here.  (19 euros).  

We cycled into Interlaken, a resort town situated on the Aare River between two lakes, Lake Thun and Lake Brienz.  It’s setting is dominated by the mountains with spectacular vistas.  Summer is high season but it is also a natural base for winter sports, serving as a transportation centre for the surrounding mountain regions.  Strolled through the town and watched dozens of tandem paragliders gliding over the mountains and landing in the main park.  The snow capped Jungfrau makes a stunning backdrop!  Went to check the possibility of climbing to the Harder Kulm instead of taking the funicular railway.  The Harder Kulm is a 1,322 metres high summit overlooking Interlaken and is a starting point for mountain hikes.  It offers spectacular views of the 
Eiger (3,970 m), Mönch (4,107 m) and Jungfrau (4,158 m) mountains as well as Lake Thun and Lake Brienz.  Good, there is a trail and we’re able to climb up!

5 July

It’s a perfect day for our hike up the to the Harder Kulm!  Used our free bus tickets into Interlaken and started our climb on one of the trails beside the funicular railway.  Climbed up through the woods, steep in parts but all good and spectacular views.  From time to time we caught a glimpse of the Harder funicular (funicular railway) transporting passengers up and down the mountain.  

After approximately one hour forty-five minutes we reached the summit with it’s platform lookout and restaurant.  Stunning views!






Had a typical Swiss lunch at the restaurant, sausage, chips and coke, good energy food!  
Caught up with Jane and Tom from Manchester in the evening.





Heading to France tomorrow after an awesome time in Switzerland.