Saturday, May 27, 2017

Brittany continued, Atlantic Coast, Quiberon and Île-de-Ré

14 May

Off to Quiberon today!

A three hour pretty drive through the woods, charming stone farmlets and medieval villages, green pastures, forests and fields of wheat.  Through Corlay and into the Département du Morhiban, a picnic lunch on the way and into Pontivy situated on the Brest to Nantes canal which we biked part of in 2013.  Following the coast through Auray to St Pierre-Quiberon and a road too narrow for Lefty, ooops!  



Back to the main road to ‘Camping Do Mi Si La Mi’ (17 euros) situated by a sandy beach, 'Plage de Saint Julien', and close to cycle and walking paths.  Chose a great pitch handy to the beach and facilities.  Went for a stroll around the camp, larger than what we first thought and  catering mainly to mobile homes.  There are a good number of amenity blocks and large pitches separated by hedges.  The restaurant is opposite the camp, along with a well stocked market, part of which is a bakery where all the ‘goodies’ including ‘pain au chocolat’ and bread, are baked on the premises. 

Across the road we admired the sandy beaches around the rocky coastline in the 'Base de Quiberon', some with camps, and the mainland in the distance.  There is a great walking path and the ‘boucle’ bike path around the Peninsula.  



Fish for dinner expertly cooked by Chef Col on the charcoal BBQ.  








15 May

Quiberon sits on the Quiberon Peninsula and is14kms long and 22kms wide.  It is flanked on the western side by the rocky Côte Sauvage (Wild Coast) and fans out around Port Maria.  It’s the perfect time of year to be here, evidently it gets swamped in summer in July and August, we feel very spoilt! 

Decided to go on a ‘recce’ biking around the Peninsula. Followed the ‘boucle’ bike path through the little fishing village of St Julien to Port Haliguen with it’s art galleries, and around the coast to the Lighthouse at the Southern tip.



We skirted the town of Quiberon deciding to come back for an explore another day.  Our bike ride took us inland passed the horse paddocks to the coast and back to camp.







A very picturesque ride,17kms.  A beautiful evening so another BBQ … steak this time, and a stroll along the coastal path.






16 May

Biked into Quiberon for an explore and lunch.  Character filled with colourful fishermen’s houses and granite buildings overlooking Port Maria.  The Port used to be France’s principal sardine fishing port and it still has a large number of fishing boats.  You can catch a ferry from here to Belle-Île.   


The Château Turpault at the end of town marks the  entrance to the Wild Coast.  Can’t be visited as it’s private property.  
Restaurants specialising in seafood and various eateries line ‘La grand plage’, a sandy beach filling the bay.  Saw one person dare to have a swim amongst the paddlers, must be chilly!  Enjoyed a prosciutto salad with ‘noisettes’ (French coffee) overlooking the bay.

After strolling the cobbled streets lined with shops, we
followed the bike path back around the coast to St-Pierre-Quiberon.  The village is situated in a sandy bay overlooked by little eateries.  Wandered the streets crammed with fish restaurants and shops and watched the shellfish gatherers on the sea shore. 19kms.

17 May

Raining today as forecast, nice to be blobby!


18 May

Enjoyed a challenging bike ride following the coast along the Côte Sauvage (Wild Coast) to the Pointe du Percho and the ‘Arches’ at Port Blanc.  Ideal for surfers who are making the most of the ‘good waves’!   





Back to camp via Quiberon and a walk around the square and shops and a stop at the little church in St. Julien.  27kms.  Met Eva and Helmut who were at our last camp in Trégastel.   








19 May

Left Quiberon and heading to Île de Ré!  Through Carnac and the megaliths towards Nantes over the St Nazaire bridge, through the countryside and views of the sea to the fishing village of Les Moutiers-en-Retz in the Loire Atlantique region.  







We’ve decided to overnight here at ‘Flowers Camping Les Brillas’ (15 euros).  A walk along the beach walkway and through the small village, all quiet at this time of year.  




20 May

Headed towards La Rochelle to the Île de Ré.  Plan to meet up with Eva and Helmut in a day or so.
Followed a picturesque back road through the countryside, vineyards, salad crops and cute villages with red tiled roofs.  Into the Vendée in the Pay de Loire and decided to take the inland route instead of the coastal route we travelled last year.  Via La Roche-sur-Yon, a pretty drive through farmlands and stone villages, onto small ‘farmers roads’ in with the wheat and corn seedlings!



Found a great ‘Aires’ near Mareuil-sur-Lay, about 30kms inland from Les Sables d’Olonne, at Moutiers-sur-Le Lay.  Toilets and washing facilities provided.  There are 5 other vans parked already. 




Wandered the charming old stone village dominated by St Pierre Church situated on the River Lay.






21 May

Left early for Île de Ré.  Back on the ‘farmers roads’ and back roads through quaint stone villages into La Charente Maritime region and the Marais Poitevin near where we biked the canals last year.  Skirting La Rochelle and over the bridge onto Île de Ré.  Had fun biking over the bridge when we were based in La Rochelle in 2012.  We said we would be back!  Île de Ré is an island 30kms long and 5kms wide.  




Passing through vineyards and villages of colourful shuttered windows with red Spanish tiled roofs and views of the sea.  We note the network of amazing bike paths throughout the island complimented by fields of wild flowers.  The poppies have arrived!  It’s an ideal time to visit the island as evidently it’s a bolt hole for Parisians who flock here every summer in July and August.


Our camp is at the far end of the Island overlooked by ‘Le Phare de Baleines’ (the lighthouse), camping ‘Les Baleines’ near the village of St Clement-des-Baleines.  It has direct access to a beach. (19 euros).

Went for a ‘recce’ around the camp and surrounding area.  Strolled to the beach behind the camp for wonderful views of the rocky bay and Lighthouse then a look at the quaint village of St Clements-des-Baleines about 3kms from the camp.  Caught up with Eva and Helmut in the evening.
22 May

An amazing bike ride following the bike paths around the island.  53kms.
Started at the Lighthouse and headed to the salt marshes in the northern part of the island which are also a sanctuary to wild birds.  Evidently salt farming ensured the prosperity of the region until the nineteenth century, around forty producers remain on the island.  


Back through farmer’s fields and passed the pony paddocks to Ars-en-Ré, through pine forests and vineyards with a stop at ‘La Rhetaise' dégustation for a large plate of oysters and a glass of white wine.   


Eva and Helmut joined us part of the way as we followed the coast near the seaside resort town of La Couarde-sur-Mer to the quaint fishing village of St Martin-de-Ré on the northern coast.  St Martin-de-Ré is the island’s main town and is enclosed by seventeenth century fortifications.

Wandered the cobblestone streets with it’s craft shops and art galleries around the harbour lined with eateries and ice-cream palours.  We had forgotten how beautiful it is here! 



Bought ‘pain au chocolats’ from the bakery and had them with coffee at ‘Du Lever Du Soleil’ brasserie with a great vista over the port and harbour.  We were very popular as the owners told us the locals were big La Rochelle rugby team supporters and raved about Victor Vito.  La Rochelle is in the premiere league and the ‘big’ game on Friday will be held in Marseilles, ‘La Rochelle versus Toulon’.



Strolled along the dramatic star-shaped ramparts looking out to sea. 
A fun evening with Eva and Helmut who sampled remoska baked potatoes.





23 May

Walked the camp beach walkway and caught up with chores!

24 May

Biked to St Martin-de-Ré with a visit to the charming village of Loix on the northern coast where we cycled along a winding road among the salt marshlands.  Loix has the last tide mill which was used to clean the salt before the grinding process. 


Onward to St Martin-de-Ré and coffee at ‘Du Lever Du Soleil’.  








Took the coastal bike path back and enjoyed des huîtres et crevettes (oysters and prawns) with a glass of muscadel at the the second ‘degustation’ overlooking the sea.  A perfect day!  47kms.





Watched the sun go down on the beach behind the camp.

25 May  

Moved Lefty to another more sheltered, shady pitch!  Eva and Helmut did the same and are now in the pitch next to us.  Early evening a German camper club arrived and filled the empty pitches as close as possible to the two amenities blocks that are open, evidently they’re staying two nights.  

Our camp is humming!



26 May

A ‘cruisey’ day with a run!  In the evening walked to ‘Le Phare Café' opposite le phare (the lighthouse) and had a great meal and a fun night with Eva and Helmut.  ‘Plat du jour’, crevettes, fish with all the trimmings and coconut flan.  The waitress liked to practice her English so we enquired as to where she learnt such ‘good English’, she responded, 'in NZ sweet as', small world!   




27 May

An early run and a walk!  Heading over to Eva and Helmet’s tonight for a risotto meal.

A fun evening!  

Thunderstorm during the night, the van rocked!
Plan to head to St Georges-de-Didonne tomorrow. 




28 May


Have decided to stay another day!  ‘À bientôt’ to Eva and Helmut.
Off to St Georges-de-Didonne tomorrow.  A two hour drive down the Atlantic coast.