Spain - Asturias Ribadesella, Cudillero; Cantabria Colombres, San Vicente De La Barquera; Basque Country Bilbao, San Sebastián

17 June

Arrived yesterday in the fishing town of Ribadesella in the Asturias region on the northern coast of Spain.  Asturias is called the ‘green Spain’ due to it’s high amount of rainfall and consequently, although beautiful, is not on the tourist route.

Biked into town and along the 'Playa De Santa Marina' sandy beach promenade with it’s cafes and colourful nineteenth Century Indiano mansions (returning emigrants who made their fortune in the Americas).  Crossed over the Sella river into old-town Ribadesella.  Strolled the characteristic narrow streets and plazas and ate potato tortillas with coffee in a bar/cafe serenaded by a talented busker playing the violin.  

After Hector had given Col a ‘top notch' haircut, we wandered around the old fishing harbour lined with fresh fish and seafood restaurants.  Climbed up to the church for a great panorama backdropped by the Picos de Europa mountain range and spied a dolphin playing in the water.

18 June

Off to Cudillero today!  Through the foothills of the Picos and into rolling countryside and villages with red tiled roofs following the coast towards Oviedo.  By passed Gijón and Avilés to Cudillero, 40 minutes north west of Oviedo, to Camping Cudillero located 1km from the sea with swimming pool and restaurant/bar.  (17 euros).  

Walked the 5kms down the steep hill and into the cute fishing village terraced around the hills down to a little harbour.  Reminded us of the Cinque Terre villages with it’s beautiful architecture, terracotta roofs and colourful tiered housing and alfresco eateries.  

Explored the town and harbour with it’s colourful fishing boats.  Climbed the narrow twisting pathways passed the squawking mother seagull protecting her babies perched on the edge of a roof, up to the top of the village.

19 June

A walk and a run in the morning.  Late afternoon, walked to the view point at the end of the road for a panorama of the beach and coastline.  Followed the winding road down to the sandy beach where the locals are enjoying the sun and sea.  It’s a warm muggy day!  

20 June

Have reached our furthest point west and are now slowly making our way back to our booked camp in St Malo.  Hit the road following the coast on one side and the picturesque Picos de Europa on the other to 'Camping Colombres'.  Situated about 15kms from San Vicente De La Barquera with swimming pool, market and views of the Picos.  (17 euros).  Found a great pitch alongside the frog stream and met Don and Jill from Marlow.  Cooled off in the swimming pool.

21 June

A very scenic bike ride that got the legs working hard, through the Picos foothills to Colombres with it’s Indianos' villas and following a steep ‘Camino pathway’ down to the little town of Unquera.  

Climbed the hills en route to San Vicente De La Barquera situated on the Cantabrian coast and evidently an old fishermen’s refuge.  Following a river with views of the church and castle on the river bank as we biked down into the town.  

A vibrant picturesque town, with sandy beaches across the bay and a backdrop of the Picos.  Alfresco eateries and bars overlooked by the castle.  Had lunch with water views enjoying a busker playing the guitar.  

Explored the town and walked the narrow cobbled street up to the castle.

Biked across the bridge over the bay to the lovely sandy beaches and cafes/restaurants. There is a very popular camp here which is nearly at full capacity even at this time of year.  It has great views across the bay.  

On our return journey we discovered a beautiful cove near the village of Perlloza.  The clear turquoise water reminded us of the Greek Islands.  We threw ourselves in!  

22 June 

If the weather forecast is accurate, we’re in for a spell of rain over the next few days.  Although we’re enjoying it here and the camp is great, decided to make the move to Bilbao.  Chose the closest ACSI, ‘camping Playa Arenillas’ situated in Islares and 100 metres from the bus stop to Bilbao. (19 euros).  The camp told us a mini-bus takes you to Castro-Urdiales which is about 8kms away where you catch another bus into Bilbao.  

23 June

Caught the 9.55am mini-bus to Castro-Urdiales, about a twenty minute ride (1.40 euros each), then connected with the ‘Bilbao Directo’ bus into Bilbao, about a forty minute ride (2.73 euros each). 

What a surprise city!  We loved it!  

We were expecting an industrialised sterile city but were very impressed with the old town.  Great for wandering the back streets.  

Third floor Guggenheim blew us away!  We’ve never seen Andy Warhol pictures in the flesh before and they had a Monet and a Toulouse-Lautrec expo as well.  Thought the architecture of the Museum was fantastic.  





Had a wonderful day out.

24 June

Took the main coastal route (not the pay motorway), 150kms to San Sebastián.  An unattractive industrial valley through the mountain ranges between Cantabria and the Pyrenees with neglected apartment block villages, including Eibar and Elgiobar.  A forgettable drive!  Hit the coast about 40kms before San Sebastián and the scenery changed, sandy beaches and resort villages.  Onto a steep narrow twisting road climbing up to the camp at the top.  ‘Camping Igueldo’ with swimming pool, market and bus stop out the front to San Sebastián.  (17 euros).  

25 June

San Sebastián is a resort town on the Bay of Biscay in the mountainous Basque Country.  

It frequently tops lists of the world’s best places to eat, it’s tapas are almost unmatched anywhere else in Spain and it has numerous Michelin star restaurants.   

Caught the bus to San Sebastián, about a thirty-five minute ride.  (1.70 euros per person).  Very excited to be here!

Down to the sea and picturesque sandy beaches, passed the Port and climbed up to the old Fort.  A wonderful panorama!   

Strolled the beach promenade to the old town, the square and cobbled narrow streets lined with tapas bars (pinxtos).  Crowds are socialising over tapas standing around tall bar tables.  There is a cool, friendly fun vibe!  

The counters are stacked with every variety of tapas, so many to choose from.  Requested a plate and chose our tapas with a preference to seafood, as well as a plate of fried squid and drinks.  (28 euros).  

Out of this world, they hit the spot!  Two Spanish families later joined our table outside and we had some laughs.

More exploring and afternoon tea at an alfresco cafe, sampled their scrumptious donuts as well as the nut chocolate with expressos!  A fantastic day!

Back at camp met Linda and Norman, originally from Manchester, live in Motueka.  We all read the streaming of the Americas Cup.

26 June

Rainy day today, so a catch up day!  Linda and Norman came over for a coffee and a chat.  They’re on bikes cycling from Lisbon to Manchester.

Back into France tomorrow.

Spain - Navarre Pamplona; La Rioja Haro; Cantabria Picos de Europa

7 June and 8 June

A perfect day for our route through the Pyrenees into Spain and onto Pamplona, a very picturesque drive, passing lots of cyclists - what a joyful ride!  Stunning day, quiet road, beautiful scenery and a gradual climb with rest stops.  Catching glimpses of the ‘Camino pilgrims’ in the woods where the path runs parallel with the road.  Pamplona is 66kms away.  Stopped at 1050 metres for a great panorama of the valley.  Through the ‘pilgrim stop’ of Roncesvalles and small villages spotting the ‘pilgrims’ making their way along their panoramic pathways. 

Our camp, ‘Camping Ezcaba’ is positioned on the pilgrimage route and is 10kms from Pamplona (19 euros).   There is a bike path near the camp. 

Biked into Pamplona on both days we were there.  The first day we left later in the afternoon. Took the bike path following the river Arga through parks, sunflower fields (unfortunately not in flower as yet), along a narrow mountain bike track, passed the old Paper Mills in Velluva Batan and over the La Magdalena bridge to the city walls and the old part of the city.  

Pamplona is the capital of the Navarre region and is well known for the fiesta of Sanfermines (Bull Run in July) and the Pilgrims Way.   

Strolled through the old medieval city with it’s great architecture, streets  lined with various eateries and bars.  Excellent food - many varieties of tapas (pinchos), paella, lamb, prosciutto and chorizo. Of course bull meat is the specialty during Sanfermines.  

Continued to the Plaza del Castillo, the beautiful square at the heart of the city surrounded by terraced cafes.  Had a very tasty paella on one of the main ‘eateries street’, Estafeta and drank coffee in front of the Town Hall with it’s wonderful Baroque architecture.  Onward to the Plaza del Torres where we went for a very interesting tour of the Bullring and pens.  (5 euros each).  

Strolled along the streets where the runners and bulls challenge each other, the route of the Bull Run (Sanfermines) which attracts thousands from all over the world between the sixth and fourteenth of July every year.  The bulls are held in San Domingo street and are let out at 8am in the morning each day to run about 2kms through the streets including Estafeta Street into the Bullring.  Brave (or stupid) revellers throw themselves in front of the bulls and attempt to run with them!  Unfortunately for the bulls once the run is ended they then end up in the Arena and face the Toreadors.  

Walked the old city walls to one of the large parks, La Vuelta del Castillo linked to the old Citadel.

Took a wrong turn on the first day and didn’t arrive back at camp until 9pm.  The second day was a much faster trip back, just in time to beat the thunder storm!

9 June

Travelled in the direction of Logroño following the 'Camino
trail'.  Through plains dotted with yellow broom and scattered villages.  Into the La Rioja region with it’s landscapes and colours, valleys and mountains and passing a sea of vineyards and ‘bodegas’ (wineries).  Took a road off the ‘Camino trail’ through vege patches to the town of Haro, the wine capital of La Rioja, situated on the Ebro river.

Arrived at Camp De Haro which is within walking distance of the town and has a swimming pool and bar/restaurant.  (19 euros).

Evidently today is a holiday and everything is closed so we’ve decided to visit Haro tomorrow when there is more ‘action’.  By 6pm the camp has been inundated with campers, tents and lots of Spanish families who partied into the night.  Had a great three course meal at the camp restaurant, salad, roast chook, fruit and a bottle of local wine, only 22 euros for two!

10 June

Walked along the Ebro river passed the winery quarter to the lovely old town and the busiest bar district ‘La Herradura’.  It includes a square lined with restaurants and Santo Tomás street with tapas bars and eateries up to the church square and Church of Santo Tomás. 

Strolled passed the wine tasting shops to the bullring.  

Returned to camp to find Lefty surrounded by tents and people having fun!  

Spent the afternoon around the pool as it’s thirty degrees.  

11 June

Biked through the gorgeous poppies and found the Municipal Park and the start of a beautiful 40kms bike circuit following the Ebro river.

Through the vineyards and up the steep slopes into medieval
towns including Briones and San Vicente de La Sonsierra.  Had a very tasty tapas lunch including potato tortillas in San Vincente (11 euros).  

Adjusting to the Spanish eating hours, restaurants/eateries open at 12noon-4pm and reopen at 8pm-9pm in the evening.  

A steep climb up to San Vincente castle and admired the views. 
In the evening, another tasty tapas dinner in 'La Herradura' in the town square, including drinks, black pudding, chorizo and stuffed pimentos (30 euros).

12 June

Travelled through the plains skirting Brugos, 140kms to Castrojeriz and our camp, ‘Camping Castrojeriz’.  (17 euros).  

The town is overlooked by a Templars’ Castle and is on the ‘Camino pilgrims trail’. Met a lovely couple from Essex, Colin and Rosie who are camped next to us in their Adria camper.

Explored the old town with it’s eatery-lined ‘Camino path' through the town centre and accommodation for the ‘pilgrims’.  Climbed up to the castle for a stunning panorama over the plains. 

13 June

We headed north,150kms to the Picos de Europa mountain range.  Plains, villages including Cervera de Pisuerga, forests, wheat and  potato farmlands into the foothills!  A very scenic drive, through Vânes and into the gorge and a panorama stop at 1350 metres.  Picnicked at Venta Pipen near a small eateries/drink stop.  It’s now raining and don’t envy the groups of cyclists passing us on the steep, winding road.  Most of them are English!  

Through Viedo and Ojedo into the Picos National Park to Potes and ‘Camping La Viorna’ overlooked by the Picos peaks.  (17 euros).  The camp is 1km from the town centre has a swimming pool, market and restaurant.  

Explored the old town, and although the centre is geared up for tourists it's managed to retain it’s charm.

14 June

A steep but very picturesque hike through the foothills overlooked by the Picos.  Passed a group of ‘pilgrims’ and the Valmayor Sancturary.  Picnicked at the highest point with great views over the town.  

Back at camp, threw ourselves into the pool where hats are compulsory.  We looked like two gnomes! 

A three course dinner in the evening - seafood paella, roast lamb, chocolate desert with coffee not to mention the bottle of wine that was included in the menu for 26 euros for two.  
Hard to believe they can do it so cheaply.  A lovely setting and a perfect night!

15 June

A blobby day - bliss!  

Met Kiwis, Kyle and Haidee and their two children in their new Adria camper that they are transporting home to Tauranga!!  A beautiful van... Had a fun evening with them.

16 June

Headed through the Picos in the direction of Oviedo, 88kms to the coast to Ribadesella.  'Lefty' dodging the overhanging cliffs on the narrow windy road through the Rio Diva (River) valley.  

To the coast and following a coastal road and part of the ‘Camino trail’ where we caught glimpses of the Atlantic.  By passed Llanes to Ribadesella and ‘Camping Ribadesella’ situated on the cliff tops above the town.  

(19 euros).  It has a swimming pool as well as heated pool, market and restaurant/bar.  Ribadesella forms part of the Picos de Europa and is hometown to Queen Letizia of Spain.

The camp is filling up for the weekend!  Off to explore tomorrow!