3 May
After a walk along the beach, a lovely home cooked lunch in Mengham (Hayling Island) and coffee with Paul and Mary, we hit the road to Portsmouth and caught the overnight ferry to Le Havre. (8 hours $NZ300.00). We awoke in our upright seats to a beautiful day and felt an ‘amazing zing’, how wonderful it is to be back in France! ‘Pain au chocolat' and coffee for breakfast then we disembarked and passed through Passport control after a quick perusal of our Passports.
With ‘keep right’ top of mind, we travelled east following the signs to Rouen under brilliant blue skies through the countryside of ‘colours’ dominated by glorious displays of rape fields. We decided as we were in the vicinity, to head to one of our favourite campsites in the small twelfth century village of Neufchâtel-en-Bray, Camping Sainte Claire (15 euros). Neufchâtel-en-Bray is situated in the Department Seine Maritime in the upper Normandy region.
Not only is this friendly camp ideally located to ferries, shops, biking and hiking, it is very picturesque set in the grounds of an old farmstead with good facilities. We finished our trip here last year giving Lefty a clean prior to boarding our ferry to the U.K.
We enjoyed a walk to the nearby shops, had a laugh with fellow campers including Henry and Cathy who were staying in the ‘Aires’ part of the camp. They told us they were tandem biking, not bad for eighty! Cathy said they had to replace their third bike as ‘Henry could no longer get his leg over’! We cracked up! He's on his way to bike up Mt Ventoux for the third time..unbelievable!
4 May
The bells of the village church woke us at 7am, to another beautiful day! Checked on ‘Mum Duck’ who is nesting in a tree behind Lefty, quite unusual. She pops out for a quick feed of our bread before flying back up the tree and onto the nest. Not sure how the chicks are going to leave ‘home’!
We ‘kitted up’ and rode the cycleway which was an old railway line, towards Dieppe. A picturesque ride passed hamlets, small stone villages and fields of rape and wheat. On route we stopped at magnificent Chateau Mesnières and were inadvertently included with a group of people receiving passes to partake in a special lunch in the Chateau no less, we were tempted but had to decline as we were ‘lycra’d up’.
We wondered the grounds and admired the gardens, particularly the tulips. It looks like part of the Chateau is now an agricultural college. Had a picnic near a river and made the return trip which proved more challenging biking against a strong wind. A 40km trip (flat) which was a good effort for our first ride of the year.
5 May
It was such a lovely day we decided not to head off and went for a walk instead, into the countryside and through one of the little villages we passed on our bike ride yesterday.
Looking forward to our 'trusty' remoska dinner, boeuf bourguignon.
6 May
Enjoying ourselves here and decided to stay another night. Off for a picturesque walk through the countryside following the old railway line in the opposite direction to our bike ride a couple of days ago. Passing farmsteads and charming old railway stations that are now private residences or cafes.
7 May
Headed east towards our next destination, Châlon-en-Champagne. A pretty, tranquil drive (no tucks on Sundays) on country roads. Pastoral landscapes, farmsteads and massive fields of wheat and rape.
Into Champagne and vine covered hillsides. We're in the Department de La Marne. Had a change of plan and decided to return to Epernay. According to French law, only bubbly produced in north east France, grown in designated areas, then aged and bottled according to the strictest rules, can be labelled ‘Champagne’. This takes place mainly in two Departments, the Aube and the Marne.
We travelled through numerous little champagne villages perched on the hills surrounded by vines, through to Epernay, the ‘Capitale du Champagne’ and home to many of the world’s most celebrated houses of bubbly, including Moêt & Chandon, Dom Pérignon,
Tattinger, De Castellane.
Our last visit to Epernay was in 2012 where we met friends, Paul and Mary from Hayling Island. Made our way to Camping d’Epernay (22 euros, not an ASCI camp) and parked beside the River Marne. Set up camp then walked along the River for a 'recce' of the ‘centre ville’. It’s great to be back!
8 May
Decided to go exploring and take the ‘Cotes des Blancs’ ride. ‘The Cotes des Blancs’ is the premier area for growing Chardonnay grapes. Followed the River Marne into town where there is an excellent cycleway that has it’s own set of traffic lights for cyclists.
Up the prestigious ‘Avenue de Champagne’ lined with elegant ‘champagne houses’.
Beneath the Avenue are 110kms of subterranean cellars holding more than 200 million bottles of Champagne. We went for an impressive tour through the Moêt & Chandon ‘maison’ (house) in 2012. Well worth a visit!
Biked through the little village of Chouilly and into the wonderful vine covered hills.
We followed the ‘Champagne Touriste’ signs which took us through the narrow roads between the vines. There are workers tending the vines, which will not be harvested until November. Lots of hard work, manual picking remains the tradition. The requirement for whole undamaged grapes is the same today as it was in the eighteenth century. There is also a limited time frame in which the grapes must be picked.
Back following the River Marne, passed our campsite into the Vallée de la Marne to Cumières. The Vallée specialises in Pinot Meunier vines. Decided to give our legs a good workout and biked the steep, windy vine covered hills to Hautvillers. Here Dom Perigean (1639-1715) is believed to have created champagne.
Visited the Abbey Church which houses the Dom’s tomb then biked to ‘the belvèdére (view point) for spectacular views of the beautiful Marne Valley. 38kms and we were back at camp.
9 May
A ‘cruisey’ day, it’s raining so dashed out and about in- between ‘downpours’. Paul and Vanessa, our neighbours in their camper named ‘Schmetti’ came over for dinner. A lovely couple from Brisbane taking a ‘year out’. Lots of laughs and a fun evening until the wee hours!
10 May
‘A bientôt’ to Paul and Vanessa and we hit the road! Travelled on country roads following the River Marne to Chalon-en-Champagne then into the Lorraine and onward towards Nancy. Passing small villages and fields of crops dotted with rape and wheat. Lorraine is situated between the plains and vines of Champagne and the Massif des Vosges. The region is known for its dukes and art nouveau pioneers who had an eye for grand designs and its WWI battlefields.
We reached our designated camp, Campéole Le Brabois (19 euros) on the outskirts of Nancy in Villers-Les-Nancy. The camp is in a parkland setting with excellent bus connections to historic Nancy. Caught the bus at the bus stop just outside the camp into Nancy.
Headed to the ‘old Town’ into ‘Place Stanislas’ considered to be one of the most beautiful Squares in Europe. Built in the eighteenth century, it is a perfect example of French classicism! Gold embossed railings and impressive fountains surround the Square, the Fine Arts Museum, the Opera House and Theatre line sides of the Square. People are relaxing under umbrellas in eateries and cafes.
We wandered the Square, through the ‘Arc De Triomphe’ and continued to explore taking in the churches, the wide main streets with their trams, turreted buildings and colourful old residences.
The City has a laid back but sophisticated feel, evidently the art nouveau movement flourished here. In the evening we caught the bus back to camp for a 'spag bol'.
11 May
We took advantage of the heavy rain outside and gave Lefty a good ‘spruce up’ on the inside. A run and a walk in the dry spell then a ‘catch up and cruise’!
Saw a smart car being loaded onto a trailer pulled by a camper van, a great idea!
12 May
Woke to a sunny day and followed the signs to Strasbourg passing pastures and pretty villages. Through the Massif des Vosges (Vosges Mountains) which form the barrier between Lorraine and Alsace.
Alsace is nestled between the Vosges and the Rhine River along which the long disputed Franco- German border lies, it’s popularly known as a land of storks nests and colourful half timbered houses. Lefty climbed the 600 metre Col du Hanz and we enjoyed the gorgeous scenery. Into vineyard country as we neared Molsheim and the ‘Routes des Vins’ (mostly white wines, Gewürztraminer and Riesling).
Found our designated campsite, Camping de Molsheim (15 euros) on the edge of town. The camp is within walking distance of the town centre, supermarket and on the ‘Route des Vins’ bike tracks.
Alsace is supposedly one of the most cycle friendly regions in France and the reason we are here. The Receptionist told us to look out for the VW convention over the weekend, we noted the immaculate VW vans and cars in the camp.
Went for a ‘recce’ of the town centre with it’s picturesque square with carousel and renaissance Metzig (Butcher’s shop), through the fourteenth century Blacksmiths’ Gate, the most impressive remnant of the town wall. Molsheim is also the birth place of the Bugatti motor cars.
13 May
Caught the train into Strasbourg! (17.60 euros return for two). A beautiful city with geranium lined canals, half timbered houses and pedestrian streets.
Admired the spectacular Gothic cathedral Notre-Dame and wandered through the cobblestone cafe lined streets to Petite France criss-crossed by narrow lanes, canals and locks.
Evidently this is the area craftsmen plied their trades in the Middle ages. Walked through the Pont Couverts (covered bridges) and their thirteen century towers then ate our picnic lunch in a park along the canal.
Back to camp early evening!
14 May
A very pretty ride following the well signed cycle paths into the countryside and through the vineyards and farmland to Rosheim and continued onto Obernai.
Wandered the cobblestone streets admiring the pastel coloured half timbered houses and narrow cafe lined streets.
On our return journey we visited Ovolsheim, another pretty village in a picturesque setting.
We can see why they say ‘Alsace is the most cycle-friendly region in France’! We plan to spend some time in this gorgeous region as it is a ‘cyclists paradise’ with excellent, well labeled cycle ways through vineyards, orchards, forests and picturesque villages. A mix of gentle, rolling hills and flat land.
A short drive today of only 50kms, passing the Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle high on the hillside which we’ve decided we’ll attempt to cycle to in the coming days. Into the village of Riquewihr, not impressed with the camp here, so we back tracked a few kms to Ribeauvillé and found Camp Pierre Coubertin, the Municipal camp (17.40 Euro ).
Happy here and a visitor to welcome us! Parked up and went for our first explore into the village. 'Mum Stork' has chosen a great spot for her nest!
An exciting day ahead, we’re biking to Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle, an imposing structure far in the distance. An amazing ride through vineyards, orchards and into the woods. Here we began a steep 15km climb up into the mountains through pretty wine villages until we could see the turreted red sand-stone Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle (640 metre altitude). 
Legs feeling a little wobbly, we bought tickets (18 euros for two), and went exploring. Took in the incredible Medieval furniture and weapons. 
This thirteenth century castle had a turbulent 800-year history! Home to noble families from the twelfth to the fifteenth centuries, the Castle was rebuilt in 1479, demolished during the 'Thirty Years War', then reconstructed by Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1908. 
We admired the wrap-around panoramas from it’s ramparts taking in the Vosges, the Black Forest and evidently on cloud free days you can also see the Alps. Enjoyed the alternative route homeward bound, though somewhat chilly on the steep descents, the wine villages (including St-Hippolyte) we passed, were well worth the effort! In the evening went back into Ribeauvillé and sampled the local Reisling and Beer and had a wonderful rump steak dinner (24 euros for two). A fantastic 35km ride.
Ribeauvillé is famous for it’s ‘Three Castles, all situated on the same mountain and forming part of our panorama from the camp. Decided we would like to see them close up!! Explored Ribeauvillé as we walked to the opposite end to a path sign posted the ‘Three Castles’. This pretty wine village with it’s winding alleys and half-timbered houses is set in a valley presided over by Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle. 
We set off on a picturesque, shaded trail into the woods and passed the beautiful church, Notre-Dame de Dusenbach Pilgrimage, a renowned, common Pilgrimage in Alsace. 
A steep climb to the top following separate trails to each of the ‘Three Castles’ - Saint Ulrich Castle, Haut-Ribeaupierre and Giersberg, prestigious fortresses and forming residences to powerful Lords from the twelfth century. 
Today a 52km return bike ride to Colmar, the Alsatian wine capital and birthplace of Statue of Liberty creator Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi. 
A fantastic ride following the ‘Route des Vins’ through the vineyards, orchards, wheat fields and wine villages including Bennwihr and into Colmar. A very pretty small city of pastel coloured half-timbered houses, pedestrian cobblestone streets, alfresco eateries, cafes and canals. 
Strolled the streets to Petite Venice with it’s maze of canals and ate our ham and cheese filled baguettes which we bought in the covered food market. 
Coffees in one of the little alfresco restaurants opposite the Brocante Market (Antique Market) in the Square. The Brocante Markets are always wonderful in France, so many beautiful things! 
A steep but lovely 15km ride through the vineyards following the ‘Route des Vins’ to the little town of Hunawihr,set on a hillside with it’s sixteenth century fortified church. 
Continued upward to our next stop Riquewihr which we found ‘enchanting’. Lovely cobblestone main thoroughfare lined with pastel coloured half-timbered houses, alfresco eateries, wine caves, craft shops, cheese shops and bakeries. 
Sampled a couple of tasty macaroons, evidently a tradition since coconuts were bought here in 1700, strolled the twisting lanes and explored the ‘arty courtyards’. Medieval ramparts enclose the entire ‘walkable centre’. 
Took an alternative route home which was not quite as steep, through the vineyards and passed the 'Three Castles'.
