Austria - Ossiachersee, Wolfgangsee and Salzburg

13.09

Met Ralf and Andre  from Germany, said our ‘goodbyes’ to Claudia and Rupert, swapped contacts and ‘hit the road’!  50kms through the mountains via Spodnje Gorgje and onto the motorway where we paid a 7 euro tunnel toll to travel through the Karawanken Tunnel into Austria.  Onward via Faakersee and Villach to  Ossiachersee and our chosen campsite about 8kms around the lake near Ostriach, Camp Parth (16 euros). We chose a hard standing pitch with a lake view backed by mountains.  There are ski villages, a cable car and chair lifts leading up to the Gerlitzen Alp (alt. 1909).

It was getting late but we decided to take advantage of the light left and followed a  great bike path around the lake through little villages and meadows, 30kms and we were back at camp. 

14.09   

As forecast it’s raining today, so we’re having a catch up, blob day!  The lake looks calm, misty and mysterious!!  

 

15.09

 

The rain cleared so we hiked into the mountains opposite the camp.  Once we found the Alpe-Adria-Trail we followed it for about 15kms through the forest.  A picturesque trail, steep in parts as we gained altitude. Views of the lake and surrounding mountains.

We’ve decided to stay an extra day to do a ‘river bike ride’ shown on our Carinthia region map.

16.09

A perfect biking day!  Followed the bike path around the lake through St Andra turning towards Villach, passed the Abbey ruins onto the ‘Drau Cycle Trails’.  The trails follow the Drau River through the whole of this region known as Carinthia, a total of 230kms.  The bike paths are superb, asphalt and well sign posted. 

We biked two arms of the river, our favourite part was the ride from St Magdalen which took us to Villach and the surrounding area.  A pretty ride through the forest and fields alongside the river with a back drop of mountains. Stopped in a café beside the river and sampled the  strudel.  70kms later back at camp.

17.09

Purchased a motorway toll vignette for 8 euros, filled up with diesel (1.58 euros per litre)  and took the motorway through the Alps.  A dramatic drive through the Alps passing ski villages, chair lifts and rocky peaks standing out above the pine tree level. 

Took the Hallen exit and started to gain altitude following a gorge  and passing Lake Fuschl. 40kms and we were in St Gilgen, a picturesque village by the Wolfgangsee, we continued 5kms to ‘Camp Wolfgangsee’ situated on the lake (16 euros).  There's a great bike path most of the way around the lake, a ferry takes you across the 'unbikeable' parts if you want it.

Decided to bike to Strobl at the end of the lake, however 7kms into our ride the skies darkened and the wind came up, we turned back battling gale force winds, what a ride!!

18.09      

'The hills are live .........................'

Excited to be going to Salzburg today! 

 

Caught the bus at the ‘Schwand’ bus stop, outside the camp, (13euros 50, for two, one way),
one hour later we were in the ‘Old Town’.  It’s a good time of year to be visiting, even though this city has a tourist-per-capita ratio higher than Venice or Florence, there are not the crowds.  Salzburg is situated on the banks of the Salzach River in the foothills of the Alps  and is the fourth largest city in Austria.   It’s the birthplace of 18th century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and was also the setting for the musical play and film ‘The Sound of Music’. 

We listened to an orchestra and opera singer as we walked through the Mirabell Palace and Gardens - ‘very fitting’, we can see the Hohensalzburg Castle looming in the background.  Crossed over the ‘love padlock’ bridge to the opposite side of the Old Town where we climbed up to this massive castle built in 1077. 

The castle and the baroque towers and churches dominate this beautiful ‘Old Town’.  Through the Kapitelplatz (huge square) where we admired Stephen Balkanhol’s ‘Sphaera’, an amazing piece of modern art of ‘a man standing on top of a giant golden ball’.  Evidently ‘public art’ has been organised by the Salzburg Foundation who install one piece of modern art each year.  

We passed the old Town Hall which is still used for operas and  ballets and the magnificent Horse Pond.  Ate a yummy ‘Kasekrainer sausage’ hotdog with mustard (3 euros 60) in the markets and visited Mozart’s birthplace.  Back over the bridge to Mozart’s residence and a climb through the forest and around the Fortification Walls for stunning views.  Lots of museums, alfesco eateries down alleyways and in the squares, funky and modern shops but also long standing confectioners and shops selling handmade goods, antiques and galleries.  ‘Sound of Music’ and ‘Mozart’ Tours and touristy shops selling all the memorabillia.  Five hours later after enjoying the sites and the great vibe, we were back on the bus back to camp. 

19.09

Decided to move to the camp next door, ‘Romantik Camping’ on the lake with a lovely beach.  (16 euros). We parked in a pitch with a glorious view of the lake. 

Hopped on our bikes and took the bike path around the lake and into St Gilgen (Saint Giles), the birthplace of Mozart’s Mum.  St Gilgen is a popular and very pretty lakeside resort town. 

There is plenty of accommodation with ‘vibrant flower boxed’ balconies, eateries, lake activities and boats on the lake providing transport and views of the surrounding mountains.

We continued our ride as far as we could to Winkl and Furburg enjoying the stunning scenery then back through St Gilgen to camp before the rain set in. 

 


20.09

A rainy day as forecast.  Catch up, reading with a wonderful lake view backed by the mountains

21.09

A sunny crisp day, perfect for hiking in the mountains!

Biked into St Gilgen where we took the unique Zwolferhorn Mountain Gondola and ascended 1522 metres to the most beautiful vantage point in the Salzkammergut.  (33 euros for two).  The Salzkammergut area (Lake District) with a total of 76 lakes, is one of the most impressive regions in Austria.  Stunning panorama of Wolfgangsee, St Gilgen, Fushlsee and Mondsee and beyond, surrounded by the Alps.  It’s wonderful to be here!! 

Walked up to the peak slope and watched the paragliders launch themselves into the air, very popular in this area, also hiking, skiing and we saw mountain bikers.  

We took the valley descent walk back to St. Gilgen via Stubneralm, a 2.5 hour walk.  A great walk through meadows, farms and forest passed cows, alpine cafes and accommodation.  Stopped halfway down to have a picnic with a splendid view.  


Had a wander around St Gilgen then biked back to camp.  Early dinner so that we could sit outside and enjoy the lake view.

22.09

Another beautiful day!  We biked around the lake via Strobl to the lakeside resort town of St Wolfgang.  This area is popular for hiking and water sports in the summer and skiing during the winter.  You can catch a rack railway, the Schafbergbahn from here up the mountain.  There are also ferries to and from Strobl and to St Gilgen.

Had a stroll around St Wolfgang, very quaint and pretty in a touristy way. 

Back to camp and saw Lefty had his ‘twin’ parked in the pitch next to us, we laughed and chatted to the German owner.  Also Kathy and Colin from Scotland and a French couple from Dijon.  

23.09               

 

Had a laugh with Kathy and Colin in their very nice ‘posh’ van, it’s raining and pretty bleak outside.   
 

24.09
 
As soon as the skies cleared in the early afternoon we went for a walk following the lake path.  Will head to Berchtesgaden and have been told to avoid the motorway due to the great delays with refugees crossing the border.





 



 


 

 


 

                  

Slovenia The Julian Alps - Lake Bohinj and Lake Bled

07.09

Up early and onward to the seaside village of Trpanj where we caught the car ferry to the mainland port town of Ploce, a one hour trip (38 euros).  We have a big drive to chip into the 700kms to Bled.  Wound our way inland through the mountains passing little villages, vineyards and fig orchards onto the motorway. 

Filled up with petrol and bought a vignette (16 euros), covering us for seven days motorway travel in Slovenia.  There is an alpine feel as we get closer to Zagreb, the landscape is much greener. 

35 euro motorway toll from Ploce to our turn off at Josipdel (about 400kms), onto Duga Resa and our chosen camp, Camp Slapic (16 euros), situated on the banks of the Mreznica river.

A fabulous schnitzel dinner at the camp restaurant warmed us up, it’s chilly and we’re dressed in jeans and thermals!  The duvet is going back on the bed tonight!

 

08.09

We travelled via Zagreb, through Border control into Slovenia.

Little alpine villages, fields of corn, ski fields with a backdrop of Alps.  Via Ljubljana to Bled where we caught a glimpse of the beautiful lake which we will return to in a few days.  Onto our campsite 20kms away, Camp Danica (16 euros) in Bohinjska Bistrica on the Sava river, which we will use as a base to explore Lake Bohinj and it’s environs.

We’re in the Julian Alps the highest mountain range in Slovenia, and we’re looking forward to getting into them.  

09.09

We set off on the ‘Kolesarska Pot Bohinj’ an asphalt path through the valley all the way to Lake Bohinj.  We cycled through alpine meadows alongside the Sava river, fast flowing and crystal clear and full of trout (fishing licences available in the camp).

Cows grazing and farmers chopping wood, through the forest and up into ski villages to the end of the path in the mountains at Jereka.

It’s stunning and not unlike our South Island. 

Down again to the little ski village of Ribcev Laz, across the bridge to beautiful Lake Bohinj, the largest permanent lake in Slovenia. 

It sits under the Julian Alps and is in the Triglav National Park.  There is a pretty little Baroque style church beside the bridge over looking the lake, built in the 16th century.  We rode through the village passed the bronze stag monument to Ukanc, up to the cable car to the Vogel Ski Resort (13.50 euros per adult) then back for coffees in the village.  50kms later back at camp.

10.09

We followed the bike path to Lake Bohinj and continued around the lake to Ukanc.  Hiked 5kms up into the mountains following a stone trail and steps up to the Savica Waterfall in the heart of the Triglav National Park. 

 

It’s a great time to be here, it’s beautiful, there are fewer people and it’s warm enough in the day (and sunny) and cooler in the evenings, good for sleeping.      




 
11.09

A cup of coffee ‘hit the spot’, it’s 7 degrees!  A twenty minute drive to Lake Bled and our camp on it’s shores, Camp Bled (16 euros).  We chose a grassy pitch about 100 metres from the water.  This crystal clear lake is situated in a picturesque environment surrounded by mountains and forests.

We set off on an orientation walk around the 8km lake, a beautiful walk admiring it’s most famous feature, Bled Island, crowned by the 55-metre tower of the Baroque Church of the Assumption built in it’s current form in the 17th century.  We then veered off the lake path for a climb up to another iconic feature, Bled castle, perched 120 metres above the lake and dating back to 1011.   

Back onto the lake path at the northern end where most of the eateries, shops, boat, horse and carriage hire are,   More touristy than Lake Bohinj but still nice.

We continued following the lake path through the forest back to camp.  We met Claudia and Rupert from Austria.

12.09

It’s Pam’s birthday today, and it’s a perfect crisp sunny day!!  The lake is sparking!!

After chats with Claudia and Rupert we biked to the start of Osojnica, a 45 minute trek up a steep forest path rising to a peak of 685 metres, to the ‘look out’ point!  Enjoyed spectacular views across the lake, the Julian Alps and the Gorenjska plain. We chatted to an English couple then made the descent.

Collected our bikes and rode into the mountains, through the little villages of Spodnje Gorje and Podhom to the Vintgar Gorge (8 euros for two).  The gorge was created during the Ice Age and it’s sheer canyon walls reach up to 100 metres.  A spectacular walk along the boardwalk running along the entire length of the gorge.  Crystal clear water, trout and an old viaduct.

Biked back through Bled and checked out a couple of surrounding towns near Kortino then back towards the camp.  On the way, we stopped at Villa Bled, Jesip Tito’s summer residence overlooking the lake and a great place for afternoon coffee especially on ‘your birthday’!!  Villa Bled is an elegant 1950’s building with a grand entrance where the likes of Prince Charles, Nikita Krushchev and Paul McCartney have walked.  A pot of coffee each and a stunning view!!     

Back to camp, then drinks at the bar on the lake followed by dinner at the camp restaurant.
Enjoyed a tasty homemade traditional grilled meat and vege meal with a complimentary blueberry shot to finish off!

The end to a perfect day and one to remember!!  Off to Austria tomorrow.