Wednesday, October 12, 2016

France ... Brittany

18 September

Left Clisson and headed west back to the Atlantic coast through little ‘degustation' wine villages around Nantes, heading in the direction of Noirmoutier passed ‘vege' hot houses and apple orchards up the coast to Port de Gravette in Brittany and Camping La Guichardière (17.60 euros), open until the end of September.  Camps are starting to close now with the end of the summer season.  The camp has a pool and adjoins the véloocéan cycle path.    
Surprised to find the camp nearly full at this time of year!  The weekend brings more people but the French enjoy coming here for ‘coquillage’, collecting shellfish!  This area is a shellfish as well as a fisherman’s paradise -  an abundance of oysters, shrimps and mussels!

The camp walkway took us to the closest beach, Port De Gravette, with it’s small marina, rocky shoreline, shellfish gatherers armed with picks, spades ad buckets and shrimp netters. 



Continued along the coastal path with it’s beaches and rocky coves - the charm of a wild coast, fishermen’s wooden huts, through little seaside resort towns, around the point of Saint-Gildas where the old lighthouse is a museum, to La Prée, overlooking Préfailles.  A very scenic 14 kms.  

19 September

Both woke feeling not quite up to ‘par’ with sore throats, (teach us for not wearing enough layers), so decided on a quiet day and a walk along the coastal path in the opposite direction to yesterday.  There are a lot of people busy collecting shellfish down on the rocky shoreline, we joined them and had fun sampling oysters straight off the rocks -yum!  9 kms and we were back at camp keeping warm.



20 September

Another sunny, crisp day with no wind - perfect for biking!  Had an awesome ride to Pornic, along the coastal path following the rocky coastline through pretty Préfailles, along the Corniche lined with nineteenth century ‘epoque villas’ and holiday homes with spectacular views, into the countryside and corn fields, through little villages including La Plaine Sur Mer, passed beaches and rocky coves, into the woods and more stunning mansions as we entered the little Port town of Pornic.  

Pornic is 50 kms from Nantes on the Jade Coast opening out into the Baie de Bourgneuf.  It has 15 kms of coastline providing spectacular cycling and hiking sandy beaches. The town is overlooked by the medieval castle, lots of cobbled side streets, stairs, chapels and eateries along the harbour.  


After lunch we strolled the seaside mansion lined, ‘Corniche de Noëveillard’ which took us passed the castle, around the harbour and marina to one of the fifteen sandy beaches.  



Coffee at one of the little cafés overlooking the harbour completed the very picturesque walk.  53 kms and we were back at camp.





21 September

Continued up the Atlantic Coast, crossed the bridge over the Loire Estuary with a view of St Nazaire’s Port, and headed 50 kms to the seaside town of Piriac-sur-Mer known for it’s sandy beaches and shellfish.   Found our camp, Camping Moulin (16 euros) situated 4 kms from the town.  The camp closes at the end of September.  Went for a quick ‘recce’ around the camp - very large and caters mainly for mobile homes.  It’s deserted now and the facilities are a bit ‘gloomy’ and in need of a makeover, pleased our pitch is down the sunny end with the other campers.  

22 September

Biked on the country roads following the bike path into Piriac to go hiking!  After an explore of the charming town with it’s cobbled streets and harbour, we walked the mansion lined rocky beach, climbed up onto the coastal path and continued along the very picturesque 17 kms coastline sculpted by the ocean.  

Passed corniches lined with villas and holiday homes, rocky coves and little fishing boat marinas, across sandy beaches to the fishing town of La Turballe with it’s large Port.  




The local speciality here is sardines and anchovies.  Back to Piriac and a tasty mince dish in a little, friendly café along one of the restaurant and café lined streets.





23 September

A fabulous bike ride in the opposite direction to Piriac towards Mesquer.  On small country roads and wooded streets passed mansions and holiday homes, out onto sandy coves with cute eateries. 



Into the marsh areas and oyster villages with their large oyster beds, sheds selling shellfish and small eateries where you can sample the produce.  25 kms and back to camp.  Had a laugh with Jean-Marc and Nicole from Laval in France, who very kindly gave us a bottle of their ‘home brew’ Calvados!




24 September

Biked into Piriac to the markets and a wander around town.  








Strolled Saint-Michel’s beach near the town centre and watched the fishermen and shellfish gatherers.







25 September

Drove 60 kms towards Vannes mainly on small country roads through little villages and farmlands to Kerver about 5 kms from St-Gildas-de-Rhuys in the Golfe du Morbihan.   We’re in the Municipal Camp (16.10 euros) near the Golf Course and situated on a long sandy beach, camp closes end of September.  The Golfe du Morbihan is a haven of islands, oyster beds and bird life and is known for it’s Celtic megaliths.
Walked along the beach to Port Crouesty with it’s marina, a yachtee's mecca with all the islands here.  Strolled the touristy restaurant and café lined quay and watched the Breton dancing in the Square.  It’s Sunday so a lot of families are ‘out and about’.  

26 September

Biked on country roads to cute St-Gildas-de-Rhuys with it’s market square eateries, church and creative galleries.  Followed an inland bike path out of town through farmlands to Arzon and back to Port Crouesty.  Sat outside one of the café’s with wifi and enjoyed a late lunch.  25 kms.
Had a great evening with Collette and Jean-Marc from Châlons-en-Champagne in France, who have been to New Zealand.



27 September - 29 September

Catch up, quieter days to get rid of our throaty, cough colds.  The Calvados has come in very handy!    Took advantage of the fine afternoons and walked the beach cliff top pathway towards St-Gildas-de-Rhuys and in the opposite direction to Port Crouesty.  
The camp closes tomorrow lunchtime so we’ll head further down the coast.

30 September

Travelled the 10 kms back down the coast toward Sarzeau and ‘Camping La Ferme De Lann Hoedic' (16 euros) on the Rhuys Peninsula, 4 kms from Sarzeau and in the countryside.  A friendly camp with nice facilities and a beach and ‘Super U’ just down the road.  Another camp where we are surprised to see how popular it is for this time of year, we notice especially with the Brits!  The camp closes at the end of October.  
Went on a ‘recce’ and biked to ‘Plage du Roaliguen', the beach just down the road from the camp, it has a wonderful coastline walk.  Followed the bike path into Sarzeau, an interesting town with a nice square and eateries.

1 October

Took advantage of the sunny afternoon and walked the path towards Pointe de Penvins following the rugged coastline with it’s sandy beaches, rocky coves and holiday homes, then a track through the marshlands to the sixteenth century ‘Chateau De Suscino’.  Took a different route back through the farmlands and ending up on the beach following the coastal path.  A picturesque 15 kms walk.

2 October



A glorious sunny day with no wind!






Decided to explore the Peninsula, followed a scenic bike path through the woods, farmlands and cute villages to Le Tour Du Parc and the oyster village in Damgan, with it’s working farms and oyster dégustation huts.  

Headed north to the opposite coast in the Golfe, via Saint-Armel and the marshlands to Le Passage, a tidal inlet overlooking Montsarrac on the Island of Séné.  




Followed the Golfe coast via Saint-Colombier back to Sarzeau and 55 kms we were back at camp.  Enjoyed a cup of coffee and the last of the sun! 





3 October

Walked the beach for 10 kms to Point de Sainte Jacques.  On the way we joined the shellfish gathers and enjoyed eating oysters off the rocks!  





Back at camp met our neighbours, ‘Millar’ and ‘Rossco', two standard ‘royal’ poodles, and their mum and dad, John and Sandy from Cornwall.





4 October 


Strong wind today so decided to ‘hit the road’ and make our way to St. Malo where we’ll catch the ferry to Portsmouth on Sunday.  Followed the signs to Dinan on a combination of dual carriage way and country roads through farmlands, passed corn fields, vege plots and little hamlets and the ‘greener’ Côtes d’Armor.   Our camp, Camping ‘Le Frèche à l’Âne’ (12 euros), is a little rural camp situated in Pléboulle, 35 kms from St Malo.  Very friendly owners, great facilities, good biking and the camp doesn’t close until the end of October.  We plan to clean Lefty and the bikes and explore the area on bike in between.  Weather is still fantastic and is forecast to remain that way until we leave!

5 October - 7 October

Three big cleaning days so no chance for biking.  All work and no play!  Lefty has performed brilliantly once again, a broken shower nozzle has been the only casualty this year. 







8 October

Decided to find a camp closer to St Malo to ensure we get to the port on time.  ‘After ‘goodbyes’ to Valérie and Cattal, the kind camp owners, we had a very pretty drive via Magignon on country roads through little stone hamlets and ‘Le Guildo' with its Chateau.  Caught glimpses of St Malo old town as we took the bypass and continued through fields of cabbages and potatoes to our camp 12 kms from St Malo, near the village of St Coulomb, Camping ‘Des Chevrets’ (15 euros).  


Enjoyed staying here in 2013, a great camp over looking a beautiful bay and sandy beach with good facilities, extra hot showers and a beach restaurant.  Camp closes end of October however there is an ‘aires’ next door.  
Finished our cleaning chores and strolled down to the beach via the restaurant with a fabulous panorama of the bay.  Tried to book for dinner but the restaurant is full!



9 October

Up early in time to catch the 10 am ferry to Portsmouth.  An easy drive, it’s Sunday and not many people about!  Lovely views of St Malo as we left the port. 







As always, sad to be leaving after another awesome six month trip! 

We look forward to doing it all again in 2017!