Europe 2019 Portugal continued - Alentejo Region including Lisbon

1 July

Left ‘Turisocampo’ near Lagos in the Algarve and headed to the west coast following the inland road.  Rolling hills covered in pine trees and as we got closer to the coast, charming white washed villages.  Through Aljezur with its Fort and Odeceixe with its windmill.  

Onto the coast and ‘Camping Villa Park Zambujeira’ (15 euros).  Swimming pool and walking distance from the small historic town of Zambujeira.  

Zambujeira is on the Alentejo Coast set in the Coast Vicentina and Sudoeste Alentejano Park.

Walked into the small traditional seaside town perched on top of the steep cliffs which overlook the beach.  A huddle of white washed walls and terracotta roofs.  Followed the clifftop path to the top of the northern end with its little chapel for a beautiful panorama.  Took the coastal cliff top walk for another stunning vista of the coastline.  Back down to the beach and swims, the water is much warmer.  There is a lifeguard on duty and the locals are enjoying the sun.  Zambujeira is also a popular surf beach and attracts many travelling surfers in the summer.

2 July

Walked the clifftop path at the southern end of the town, down the stairs to a beautiful sandy bay.  Had a fabulous afternoon swimming and enjoying the sun.  

We love the non touristy casual vibe here and the beaches are truly stunning!

3 July

Another great day swimming and enjoying the sun in the sandy bay at the southern end of town.

Sampled the ‘mobile grilled chicken man's' chicken dinner with traditional black bean and bacon salad.  Very tasty!

4 July

Left our fab spot in Zambujeira and headed up the coast through the eucalyptus trees and farmlands via Vila Nova de Milfontes beach alongside the Rio Mira.  Portugal is the fourth largest European producer of pulp for paper.  

Leaving the coast and heading inland climbing rolling tree covered hills, through the remains of cut wheat fields with hay bales and white washed villages.  Passed cork oak tree farms with rows of stripped trees.  Interesting to note that Portuguese law prohibits stripping the trees more than once every nine years in order to protect the species.  Portugal produces about half the world output of commercial cork.   We’ve seen a great selection of cork products in the markets and shops - bags, shoes, hats and jewellery to name a few.

Through Cereal, Ermides and Canhestros and into agricultural farming dotted with sunflowers interspersed with cork oaks.  Passed workers tending the melons and traditional little towns.

Alvito with its castle and into Evora and ‘Camping Orbitur' (26.10 euros) with swimming pool, restaurant and good basic facilities. 

Walked into the fortified medieval town dominated by its Gothic Cathedral begun in the twelfth century surrounded by white washed houses.  Through the narrow alleyways and into the picturesque town square where we had a drink overlooking the best preserved temple in Portugal, the Temple of Diana.  

Evidently the Temple was used as a slaughter house until 1870.  Took in the elaborate churches and monuments dating from the fourteenth to sixteenth century.  

Discovered a lively university town outside of the historic town with quirky eateries and traditional restaurants.

Spent the late afternoon around the pool.

5 July

Walked to the Evora train station and caught the early train into Lisbon (44 euros for two return). Had to take the metro from the train station to the old town. Climbed the cobbled streets of bohemian Barrio Alto where the Bica Funicular normally runs, passed the lavish São Roque Church to the Garden Terrace for a great view.  Lucky for us, Lisbon is built on a series of hills and has many scenic vistas.  

Strolled the narrow cobbled streets with its centuries old houses, loved the vivid street art and quirky bars and eateries.  Listened to a busker’s fado music in one of the squares.

Strolled along the Port area to the markets, passed a viewing elevator, through the eatery lined squares, one with two exceptional musicians, violinist and violist playing Coldplay.  

Onward to the Castle of São Jorge with its small walled town, for spectacular views including the old city’s pastel-coloured buildings.  Through the streets with funiculars and passed by charming vintage trams.  Ancient ruins and white domed cathedrals.  A vibrant and charismatic capital of Portugal!

Lisbon is Europe’s second oldest capital (after Athens) and once home to the world’s greatest explorers like Vasco da Gama, Magellan and Prince Henry the Navigator becoming the first true world city, the capital of an empire spreading over all continents.

A fabulous day, ‘walked our feet off’!  Caught the evening train back to Evora where we enjoyed a fish dinner in one of the alfresco eateries.

Crossing back into Spain tomorrow. 

We've had a wonderful stay in Portugal, lovely laid back people, amazing scenery, yummy food, fantastic weather and cost effective.

Europe 2019 Portugal - The Algarve

17 June 

After ‘goodbyes’ to Stuart and Susie, we left Seville and headed to Portugal.  Travelling west, inland passed fields of beautiful sunflowers, olive, orange and lemon groves, vineyards and empty fields cut for hay.  Into Portugal over the Rio Guadiana through motorway tolls which wouldn’t accept any of our cards and onto the coast and the Algarve.  No daylight saving here so we’ve gained one hour. Through the seaside towns of Altura, Manta Rota to Cabanas, about 6kms from Tavira and ‘Camp Ismo Ria Formosa’ (17.53 euros).   The camp is about 1km from the seaside town of Cabanas, has a great swimming pool, restaurant, mini mart and good facilities. 

Found a nice shaded pitch next to the Oleander bushes. 

Portugal’s location on the Atlantic Ocean has influenced many aspects of it’s life:  salt cod and grilled sardines are the national dishes, the Algarve’s beaches are a major destination and much of the architecture dates from 1500s-1800s when Portugal had a powerful maritime empire. 

18 June

Walked from the camp into Cabanas, once a fishing village, now a popular small resort.  It lies on a lagoon at the gateway to the Ria Formosa Natural Reserve.  We strolled along the boardwalk which runs the entire length of the lagoon.  There are small colourful fishing boats as well as water taxis that take you across the lagoon to the long white sand beach, ‘IIha de Cabanas Island’. Clear water and much quieter here even in the peak season, because the beach is a little harder to access.  Shops, cafes and restaurants line the seafront promenade which seems to be geared to cater to the Brits.

Enjoyed wondering through the older part of the village where some attractive fishermen’s cottages can still to be found.  Evidently the resort gets its name from traditional ‘cabanas’ fishing huts, which started to be built in the eighteenth century to store the tackle of the fishermen who once fished for tuna here.  Although tourism has overtaken fishing as the industry, the village has managed to retain its charm.  Back at camp we ‘hit the pool'.

19 June

We were unable to bike into Tavira today, evidently one of the bridges on the cycleway has collapsed and has been ‘out of action’ for the passed two years.  Ended up catching the bus, a fifteen minute journey (4.70 euros for two one way).  Tavira lies on the Gilão River which meanders into the marshlands of the Rio Formosa Nature Reserve.  Beyond is a sandbar where the beaches are located.  Tavira was originally a Moorish city in the tenth century, then a major port in the fourteenth century and was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1755.  

Explored the scenic historic centre, cobbled backstreets and plazas filled with alfresco eateries and traditionally tiled houses.  Climbed up to the ruins of the Moorish castle for a great panorama over the town, through tranquil gardens, passed churches and 

monasteries.

  

Along the Gilão River lined with colourful eighteenth century mansions, across the Gilão bridge and coffee listening to ‘Blues Music’.

Taviria has managed to retain its charm in the face of tourism. 

Caught a good view of the Nature Reserve as we sat in the train back to camp (3 euros for two one way).  An evening swim in the pool - bliss!

20 June

Caught the train to Faro, a thirty five minute trip (14.80 euros for two return).

Walked the seafront promenade into the old town encircled by city walls.  Strolled the Gothic Cathedral, Palace, cobbled backstreets with alfresco eateries and enjoyed the storks nesting above the Town Arch .  

Outside the walls is the modern city centre with pedestrianised shopping streets, plazas, restaurants and bars.

Discovered it’s a public holiday today, which could be the reason it’s quiet.  However we’ve noticed there is also a large number of houses and buildings that seem to be closed up and left empty.  Evidently Faro is often overlooked and considered purely for its airport, and bus services to other parts of the Algarve.

Enjoyed a coffee and pastry at the bakery down one of the cobbled streets. 

Arrived back at the train station to discover our train had been cancelled due to the Public Holiday, the next train arrived in one hour.

Headed back towards the cobbled streets and found a fabulous French characteristic cafe.  Popular with the cliental who are all French, except us.  Wonderful artwork and a great menu.  Enjoyed the pork special with salad and potatoes!  

Food, coffees and the storks have been the highlight of our day! 
    

21 June

En route to Lagos, inland following the coast through the oranges, olives and small villages with glimpses of the sea and the wetlands.  The inland road took us through commercial service centres and sprawling residential areas.  Orange stands and artesian pottery stalls on the side of the road.  Oranges are so sweet and delicious here and in Spain.  Via Albuferia and the ‘Zoo Marine’ passed Alcantarilla and Aqualand.  

From Porches onward, a beach resort and upbeat feel.  Whitewashed houses and glimpses of sea and sand.  Some beautiful golf courses here!

Via Portimao and Lagos to Praia da Luz and ‘Camping Turiscampo’ (29 euros non ACSI).  There are designated ACSI sites here, the five available were situated along way from the facilities and are wind prone so we chose a nice non-ACSI pitch with shade.  The camp is ideally located to the beach and Lagos.  Lovely swimming pool inside and outside, restaurant and cafe area.  Fabulous designated sun bathing/relaxing areas, excellent facilities including a kids block and dog wash. 

22 June

Another beautiful day!  After the walk into Praia da Luz we were rewarded with a stunning view of the Algarve coastline.  Crystal clear water, sandy beaches and rocky coves.

Luz is a small resort town and sits around a glorious sandy bay.  It has a wonderful beach, funky eateries, cafes, beach bars, white washed houses, several holiday-villa complexes and a medieval church. 

Brits are enjoying the fabulous climate and there is plenty of English food if you want it.   Baked beans and Sangria!

Luz was originally a small fishing village however tourism has replaced the fishing.  

Luckily this transformation has not spoilt the town’s charm, it remains beautiful!  We like it here!

Explored the town and decided to follow the cliff top walk to Burgau.  

A stunning walk with wonderful panoramas and some beautiful villas.  Into tiny Burgau which was also a fishing village now living mainly on tourism.  

A picturesque small sandy beach, eateries and white washed houses.

We sat at one of the little cafes overlooking the beach and admired the view.  Another lovely spot!

14 kms we were back at Luz and threw ourselves into the sea.  It was as cold as ice but very refreshing and just what we needed.  Enjoyed homemade pizza and salad at one of the little family run eateries.  

23 June

A day spent around the pool!  We continue to find the Portuguese lovely laid back people, they tend to sleep in and stay up late.  When we're thinking about going to bed they're thinking about cooking dinner!

24 June

Caught the bus into Lagos for an explore (7.60 euros for two return).  Lagos is situated in the Western Algarve at the mouth of the Bensafrim River and along the Atlantic Ocean.  It’s known for its walled old town, cliffs and Atlantic beaches.

Walked along the river promenade with its sandy beaches on one side and the city on the other.  Passed the markets and ‘grotto tour stalls’ to the pretty harbour with seventeenth century Fort. 

Up into the ‘old town’ with the remains of Moorish fortified walls, cobbled streets with authentic eateries, shops, craft stands and street musicians, extravagant churches and wonderful architecture. 

We like it here - a beautiful city that has managed to combine traditional Portuguese life with modern tourist facilities.  Evidently Lagos also has the largest sandy beach in the Western Algarve.  Managed to find a Barber Salon that did a great job on Col’s mop, Pam has a new husband!  

Found a traditional restaurant up one of the cobbled alleyways and enjoyed a yummy sardine lunch.  Up another cobbled street to a funky cafe which provided us with traditional ‘Pasteis da Nata’ (custard tarts) and almond and sweet potato pastries with coffee.  Hit the spot!

Back to camp and into the pool.

25 June - 26 June

Glorious pool days!

27 June

The bus dropped us off about 2kms from Salema so thought we’d ‘suss’ out the camp we had planned to stay at on our walk through the valley down to the village.  We’d heard the camp was closed, they were correct, the camp is closed for well-needed renovations.  

Continued down the hill into the seaside village of Salema.  The village is situated on the Algarve’s west coast, was a fishing village but is now a popular tourist resort.  One side of the valley houses parts of the original fishing village, the other side is made up of holiday apartments with sea views.  Guest houses, hotels and villas dot the valley.  Walked along the seafront promenade lined with a mix of traditional and modern eateries offering a selection of English and traditional food.  Brits are lazing on ‘curtained beach beds’ on the lovely sandy beach but not many are swimming, the water is freezing cold. 

Enjoyed the walk up the stairs along the street lined with the original fishermen’s cottages, charming and colourful, now providing accommodation for tourists.   Climbed up to the holiday apartments on the other side of the valley for a wonderful view of the beach and coastline flanked by sandstone and limestone cliffs.  Had a cold drink overlooking the beach.  A beautiful village that would have been even more beautiful a few years ago.

28 June

A relaxing day in the pool and around the camp.

29 June

Caught the bus to Sagres via quaint white washed villages Vila Do Bispo, Figueira and the funky bus stop at Budens.  Sagres is at the extreme western tip of the Algarve and is primarily a surfing destination all year round.

Off the bus and struck by the stunning, dramatic landscape of immense cliffs with lovely sandy beaches nestled in the bays.  Strolled along the clifftop promenade passed Mareta Beach with its cafe overlooking the beach.  

Around the clifftop coves to the fifteenth century Fort, Fortaleza de Sagres.  The Fort protected against pirate raids from North Africa.  It is unique because it has only one defensive wall on the southern side as the other three are guarded by the sheer cliffs of the headland. 

Continued our walk looking down on the surfers at Tonel Beach looking out at Cabo de Sao Vicente, a bleak windswept headland of massive cliffs forming the westerly point of Europe.  The lighthouse guards the treacherous cliffs.  Up until the thirteenth century the Cabo de Sao Vicente headland was believed to be the end of the known world. 

Into the laid back traditional town with its great selection of eateries passed the fishing cottages to the fishing harbour and more stunning beaches, hotels and family run eateries.

A wild and rugged yet beautiful town with a windswept, remote setting. Perfect not only for surfers, but also visitors who enjoy the outdoors and want to escape the crowds.  We like it here!

Back to camp and into the pool.

30 June

Had a tasty chicken and prawn dinner overlooking the pool at the camp restaurant.  Have 
thoroughly enjoyed our stay here.  Heading to the west coast tomorrow.

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