Tuesday, October 2, 2018

Europe 2018 The Return Leg - Basque/St Jean-de-Luz, Dordogne, The Loire, Normandy


Seven weeks later and I’ve had a break from the blog




What an amazing seven weeks!  Lots of hiking, biking, swimming, beaching and blobbing.  It’s been great for our fitness, our French and our ‘Joie de Vivre’!  
Have had a wonderful time with our friends and met some amazing people, in fact we’ve become part of the ‘long term camping family’ here!  


Have enjoyed sampling Basque delights, fabulous dinners and lunches, soirees at the cafe’s overlooking ‘Erromardie Beach’ as well as all the sunsets and friendly vibe!    




15 July - 3 September

Bike rides and hikes have included:



Around the hilly environs of the camp including quaint Guéthary.







Back along the scenic coastal path through St Jean-de-Luz and Cibourre.  Through to Socoa with it’s prominent fort built in 1627, then a climb up to the Corniche.









A visit to the big surf at Biarritz with it’s ‘Rocher de la Vierge’ and belle époque architecture.  





Our Pyrenees bike rides have included the coastal path from the camp onto the bike path through St Jean-de-Luz:

To Ascain following the River Nivelle, on a shared bike path along the road. Through Ascain and up the small Col St Ignace, 3kms long, average 5% gradient, back through St Jean de Luz to Camp.  30kms.





Into Ascain and onwards to the Col d’Ibardin and over the border into Spain.  4kms long, 7% gradient back through St Jean-de-Luz.  40kms.








Took the main road and turned off before the centre of St Jean-de-Luz and headed into the Pyrenées.  Over the hills and into Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle. Onto Ascain following a bike path along the road and up the Col St Ignace.  You can catch the train to La Rhune at the top.  





Back through Ascain to St Jean-de-Luz.  About 53kms.








Our Pyrenées hikes have included:

A climb to the summit of ‘La Rhune’ with Thierry and Didier followed by a tasty three course lunch afterwards in Irun, Spain. Popped back over the border into Urrugne, with it’s sixteenth century church and Paul Lavrosky photo exhibition.  




Journalist and photographer born in St Jean-de-Luz in the 1930’s, known for his war photos.






Hike with Thierry starting from Bidarray about 25kms from St Jean-de-Luz.  Climbed to the top of the peaks including Pic d’Iparla (1044 metres) and Pic Tutulia (983 metres), wild horses with their babies (Potoks) and spectacular views!  Returned via ‘Pas de Roland’ a scenic drive through the gorge following the river ‘La Nive’, onward through Itxassou and Espelette known for its’ ‘pigment’ (chillies), back to camp.  17kms.

Hike with Jean-Luc, Mauricette and Oslo!  Fabulous squid lunch and stroll around charming St Jean-Pied-de-Port about 60kms from St Jean-de-Luz, then a drive further up into the Pyrenées.





A spectacular hike following the Santiago de Compostela walk. 









A visit to Bunus.  Through St Pée-sur-Nivelle, Espelette following the ‘Route du Fromage’ and up into the Pyrenees.  Went on a walk to a couple of the cute villages, visited an eighteenth century monk’s residence and went up one of the Cols Didier has biked, ending at a ‘Fromage Farm’ owned by another of Didier’s friends.  Specialty is ‘Le Brebis' (sheeps cheese).  You can buy direct from the cheese farmer.  Back to Bunus and Didier’s friends for a fun afternoon.



………….  We love life here in St Jean-de-Luz and are looking forward to returning next year! 


4 September

After endless ‘au revoirs' and ‘à l’année prochaine’ to the camp we hit the road!  Moving fairly quickly, making our way North to catch the ferry to England.  Skirted Bayonne leaving the Côte Basque, through the Côte d’Argent and Côtes des Landes heading to an ‘Aires’ somewhere north of Bergerac.  Through farms, cornfields and long stretches of pine forests in the ‘Lande des Gascogne Park Reserve’.  Into the Lot-et-Garonne and outcrops of woods, farmsteads, harvested paddocks and fields of sunflowers and maize ready to be harvested.  Into the Dordogne and the vineyards of Bergerac. 


Through the vineyards to Monbazillac to an Aires, 2kms from Bergerac in amongst the ‘vines’, ‘Domaine de La Lande’, a great spot to chill after five hours of driving.



About six other vans here and at 6.30pm the bell sounded for ‘wine tasting’!  The vineyard is family owned and their wine is only sold via their small shop and to the local restaurants around Bergerac………20,000 bottles per year.  We were keen to buy as payment for our night but the wine was too sweet for us, several others purchased ‘cartons’, so we didn’t feel too bad.

5 September

Onwards passed Monbazillac Château and over the Dordogne and a glimpse of Bergerac’s beautiful old town (here in 2013 for Bastille Day fireworks).  Through rolling countryside to Périgueux, and into the ‘Parc Naturèl Périgord-Limousin’, scattered chateaux, beautiful medieval towns including Brantôme on the Dronne River (visited in 2013) and Nontron.  Into the Haute Vienne and Rochechouart with it’s magnificent château and the ‘Route of Richard the Lionheart’.  Evidently ‘Richard the Lionheart’ waged several bloody battles in this area and died near Limoges in 1199.  




Onward through pretty Confolens on the Vienne River (here in 2016 for Bastille fireworks) through the Vienne Valley.  A scenic drive following the Vienne River to Ingrandes, 10kms passed Châtellerault to ‘Camping Le Petit Trianon de Sainte Ustre’(19 euros).  A wonderful camp in the grounds of the splendid Chateau Châtellerault, lovely and quiet, heated pool, restaurant and some cycling.
Took us two days all in all from St Jean-de-Luz to the Loire, average five hours per day drive, good going for us :).

6 September

Awoke to rain, cleared by the afternoon!  Relaxing, catching up and a ‘recce' of the grounds and farmstead with charming restaurant.

7 September

Decided to leave our Château earlier than planned as we’re meeting friends somewhere near Blois in a day or so.  Drove an hour into the Loire/Indre through the countryside, farmsteads and fields of sunflowers ready to be harvested (beautiful in June/July). Crossed over the Cher and then the Loire River, following the Loire and catching a glimpse of Château Chaumont and Blois. Onward to Camping Le Val de Blois on the banks of the Loire (17euros).  The camp is on the ‘route’ à Velo’, ideally situated for exploring the Loire Chateaux.

8 September

A beautiful bike ride following the Loire and into the vineyards, through little villages and farmlands to Chateau Chambord.  








A magnificent Château and one of our favourites!  Began in 1519 as a weekend hunting lodge for François I, however François found this elaborate place too draughty and only stayed here for 42 days during his entire reign from 1515-1547.  French renaissance architecture and stunning, the grandest, largest and most visited in the Loire Valley.  Back to camp via Blois, where we’ll explore tomorrow with our friends.

9 September

A fabulous day with Daniel, Nadine and Andi who live nearby in Orléans.   Coffee at the campsite and Pam received an early birthday present, a bottle of Champagne from Reims, very spoilt!  Drove the 4.5kms into Blois and walked across the old bridge into town and found a great restaurant with a terrace.  Enjoyed a three course lunch, the ‘profiteroles’ with coffee hit the spot!


Meandered the twisting streets taking in the sights including the Château Royal de Blois with it’s mix of medieval, Gothic and Renaissance architecture and home to François I in the sixteenth century and the seventeenth century Cathédral St-Louis in the old city.  A great panorama across town from the top of the 'Escalier Denis Papin’. 

10 September

Heading north towards Dieppe taking a direct route via Châteaudun.  Into the Eure-Et-Loire Department through farmlands and farming villages, passed harvested wheat paddocks and maize ready to be harvested following the ‘Route du Blé’ (wheat).  Into Normandy skirting Chatres and Evreux into the Seine-Maritime Department on the ‘Route du Vikings’ and crossing over the Seine.  It’s 4.30pm and we’re lucky to dodge 'Rouen rush hour'!  Into the Pays de Bray and Neufchatel-en-Bray and back to one of our favourite camps and where we began our trip, Camping Sainte Claire(15 euros) and greeted by the very kind ‘monsieur’ who always remembers us.  The camp is located in the grounds of a picturesque farmstead with apple trees and is on the ‘London - Paris Avenue Verte’ (cycle path) with supermarket and shops up the road.  We’ve a fabulous pitch backing onto the river with views of the medieval town.  

We’ll prep and clean ‘Lefty here before ‘he’ goes into storage for 6-months in England.

11 September

Cleaning and prepping ‘Lefty’!  Walked to Leclerc for provisions.  Candlelit dinner under the stars!

12 September


It’s Pam’s birthday today! :) 
A great start to the day with ‘pain au chocolat’ and coffee, weather looking cloudy but hopefully no rain, perfect for biking!   Followed the ‘London-Paris Verte’ cycleway 34kms passed magnificent Château de Mesnières, through lush countryside and small stone villages into Dieppe for a birthday lunch.

Headed into the harbour lined with restaurants and cafes.  Found ‘The Mussel Who Sings Restaurant', much more romantic in French, ‘La Moule Qui Chante’ and even though the restaurant specialised in the popular ‘moules dishes’ we chose oysters and steak with a glass of Sancerre dry white wine - superb!   Finished with a ‘gourmand’ - three small dishes of desert with coffee, fabulous!

Wandered the waterfront which is a mass of kites and windmills, evidently its ‘cerfs-volantes day’!  Back around the harbour and back to camp.  72kms round trip.





13 September - 15 September 

Prepping Lefty for ‘his’ winter hibernation. 

16 September

A perfect day for the ferry!  12 noon Dieppe - Newhaven crossing




Once again Lefty has been awesome, we’ve had a wonderful trip and will be back in 2019 to do it all over again!