Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Europe 2019 - Spain - Aragon, Costa Daurada, Costa Blanca

14 May

Crossing into Spain today through the Col de Portalet!

It’s taken two weeks to get here with four stops - the Loire, Vienne, La Garonne and the Pyrénées.

After ‘á bientôt to Céline, Arnaud and Jazzy, we followed the ‘Route du Fromage’ (brebis) heading to the Col de Portalet.  We noted a ‘Tourist Scenic Route’ turn off here which would be great for biking.  Through the Vallée D’Ossau to the pretty ski town of Laruns and the beginning of the Col de Portalet (1794m 25kms) and climbing!  

A stunning drive on a glorious day through the Col passing little ski villages, ski stations and magnificent snow capped peaks following the Ossau River.  Passing cyclists on an incredible bike ride best done now when it’s quiet, there are no cycle lanes. 



Coffee at the top and Lefty’s second trip as 'he' was here with his previous owners Don and Val!  Into Spain and a whole valley for skiing!
Heading towards Huesca through the Val de Tena and the Pyrénees mountain range.  


Barren rolling hills with pockets of wheat fields dotted with wild poppies, vineyards, olive and almond groves and little ancient towns.  Following the Rio Vero to our campsite, ‘Camping Rio Vero’. 
(16 euros).  



We’re in the Aragon region in the northeast of Spain in the heart of the Sierra de Guara National Park.  It’s limestone mountain range with deep canyons, gorges and caves, make it a top destination for ‘canyoning’ and people who enjoy the outdoors. The Park is also know for it’s rich, varied vegetation, special bird protection area and it’s rugged rocky walls make the perfect nesting place for many birds of prey - species of eagles, falcon and vultures.



The camp is located 5kms from Alequézar on the way to Colungo.  Good facilities and lots of walking and biking opportunites.  Found a wonderful pitch overlooking the Rio Vero river.





15 May

A stunning, challenging ride through the countryside.  Our path turned into a steep goat track so we abandoned and began the uphill climb to the medieval village of Alquézar.  That got so hard we stopped for lunch:).


What a great decision!  Had a very enjoyable alfresco lunch
overlooking the olive trees - soup/salad, pork with ‘frîtes’, desert plus wine and water for $25 per person - amazing!






Continued our climb to stunning Alquézar perched on asteep hill in the Pyrénées.  An excellent spot for canyoning, horse riding, biking and hiking.  It’s magnificent Santa Maria Castle was consecrated in 1099.




We strolled the cobbled streets and climbed to the highest
point for a view of the
Sierra de Guara Park.  






16 May  

The Aragon region is a wonderful introduction to Spain :)

Bought some bread and left Camp Rio Vero making our way to the Coast.  Passed the vineyards via Barbastro, farmlands, olive and almond groves.  Into the Catalunya region via Lleida overlooked by it’s fortified castle, through the orchards and farming towns via Taragona and onto the Coast Daurado. 


Headed South to ‘Elsprats Camping Village’ (20 euros), a large camp with big pool, gym, dog spa, supermarket with bakery and all the trimmings.  A bit of a shock to be with so many people after having camps virtually to ourselves.  



Found a nice pitch in the last row near the facilities and beach.

Went on a ‘recce’ and a walk along the beach.





17 May

A big catch up day with an evening walk!  We like it here.  Wonderful, well thought out facilities, leisure and fun areas.  Everything is made easy!  Beautiful people kind and helpful.  Enjoyed the yummy donuts from the Bakery. 

18 May

A very enjoyable bike ride along the coast to Cambrils.  We followed the promenade with it’s little beach front cafes and market to the town centre.  A characteristic large town with marina, port and old town.  The town has personality with it’s charming  restaurants, cafes and sandy beach.  The beachfront stretches along 7kms of coastline. 


Decided to continue our ride along the coastal path to the resort town of Salou. Evidently the path was once used by fishermen and is now known for its sunrise and sunset views.  






We followed the promenade through town and around the sandy bays and rocky coves to the end of the pathway.  




On our return, we passed a wedding ceremony in one of the sandy bays after Cambrils.  The wind has come up making for a challenging ride back along the coast.

This is a great time of year to beat the crowds and explore on our bikes :)

Met Peter and Sara, a lovely couple from Northumberland in their flash Carada camper.  

19 May

We’ve decided to stay an extra day!   It’s a windy day great for reading, blobbing and chatting with Peter and Sara.  A nice stroll in the evening!

20 May

After our farewells to Peter and Sara, we headed to the ‘caravan shop’ up the road and bought a large floor cover to go under our awning.  We’ve found the camp surfaces dry and hard, with gravel, sand, clay or a mixture, so it will come in very handy. 

We’re heading further down the Costa Daurada to Peñiscola.  Through olive groves and barren lands, industrial areas, and scattered tiny villages, backed by mountain ranges.  Passed Amposto on the banks of the l’Ebre River with glimpses of the coast.  Onto the coast and rocky coves with sandy bays some lined with houses with terracotta tiled roofs.


Into the orange orchards to Peñiscola and ‘Camping Ferrer’.  (16 euros).  This characteristic little camp is ideally placed as it’s only a short walk to the beach and the old town.  Good facilities with pool, restaurant and bar.  Walked to the beach, along the port passed the fish market, and climbed the cobbled streets into the Thirteenth Century Old Town.






The castle was constructed by the Templars at the beginning of the XIV century.  It was used by Benedict XIII (Pope Luna) who lived here from 1394 until his death in 1423 therefore becoming the third Holy See in the world together with Avignon and Rome.
It was restored in 1960 and was used as a location for several films, including El Cid starring Burt Lancaster and Sophia Loren and recently in Game of Thrones.

Continued along the windy cobbled streets with alfresco eateries overlooking the sea and the town, passed funky craft shops and shuttered houses - a very pretty little town, in parts reminding us of Naxos old town in the Greek Islands.  


Outside the old town we walked along the lovely sandy beach onto the promenade passing low rise appartments which at first appeared somewhat ugly but became much nicer as you continued along the promenade.



21 May

We could’ve easily stayed another day in this lovely spot, but decided to keep moving as we want to see as much as we can before it gets too hot in the south.


En route to El Saler, 10kms south of Valencia and our base to visit the city.
Following a route through the valley with its rows of orange orchards, olive groves and a back drop of barren hills with scattered vineyards.  


Ancient towns such as Sagunto with castles on the peaks in the distance.  There is good biking in the valley and on the route to Valencia, cyclists are taking advantage of the designated bike paths.  Following the coast, Valencia is sparkling under the sun in the distance.  Our route took us through part of the city which was a ‘bit hairy’.





Arrived at ‘Camping Valencia El Saler’ (14 euros) with a cycle route into Valencia one way and a nature reserve going the other way.  Good facilities with pool and small bar/restaurant. 

It’s raining after a beautiful day and we’re very cosy in our ‘little house’.

22 May

A fabulous day in Valencia!  Took the cycleway alongside the beach, through the marina and the Gardens Of Albufera into the centre of the city.  Excellent cycleway and walking paths throughout the city.  The Emirates Team New Zealand building is still in the marina.  





Took in all the sights including the Palace, Church of San Nicolás, Art Museum, the Performing Arts Theatre, Bullring and The Cathedral.  There are crowds queuing here to get in, evidently the Holy Grail is said to be kept in the Cathedral. 


Loved the beautiful architecture, a mix of  Romanesque, Gothic gargoyles to Modernist. 
Lovely tree-lined plazas leading into various lanes and courtyards, alfresco eateries and funky cafes, chic fashion, markets and malls.  



Valencia is the most cycle friendly city we’ve come across.  A beautiful well thought out, laid back city with a good vibe!  Had a fab lunch, lentil soup, a traditional saffron rice dish in the oven, finishing with coffee.   

23 May

En route to Calpe on the Costa Blanca!   Travelling inland following the coast through the Albufera Reserve with its salt marshes interspersed with orange groves.  



Little villages sprawling down the sides of the surrounding mountain ranges.  
Through Oliva and a stretch of road with young girls sitting in plastic chairs roadside  awaiting customers.  



Through the characteristic, arty town of Gata de Gogos and ‘marble statue stalls’. 
Climbed the hilly ranges with stunning views out to sea, looking down on terracotta roofs inbetween orange groves, manicured vineyards and vegetable gardens.  




This is looking more like the Mediterranean! 









23 May

Down into the resort town of Calpe and ‘Camping CalpeMar Cat. 1’ (20 euros).   A small modern camp with pool and within walking distance of the town centre with its old town, beaches and supermarket.  Chatted to a British couple who told us that lots of Brits and Dutch arrive in March to spend the winter and head home end of June before the busy summer months.  Spent the afternoon around the swimming pool.


Had an evening stroll through the main town, the pretty old town with its winding alleyways, funky tapas bars and eateries.  Some nice shops in the main town, promenade with eateries along the lovely sandy beach.  


The huge limestone rock at the end of the beach, is on a headland to the east, looks a bit like the Rock of Gibralter.  It’s called Peñon de Ifach.

24 May 


Out for walks along the beach and a visit to the supermarket in between the rain.







25 May

A nice day for exploring!  Walked to the end of the beach promenade and along the coastal pathway passing the Roman site of Baños de la Reina with its rock cut, clear blue, sea pools and onto the limestone rock at the end of the headland.  Looking up the steep limestone cliffs at a sky full of thriving birdlife and birds nesting in the cliffs.  Surprised to see a large numbers of homeless cats about here who are evidently fed regularly by the Council.  Below the cliffs lie the ruins of a medieval village, Pabla de Ifac.  


'Sussed' out the fish restaurants with their amazing variety of fish and shellfish at the Port.  What a display!  Calpe is known for its fish restaurants.  






Strolled to the other end of the beach following the cliff top coastal path looking out to sea, passed characteristic terracotta houses, through woods and small bays.  Back into town and a walk around the narrow streets of the ‘old town’. 

 Evidently the original fishing village of Calpe consisted of a walled town built to defend against attacks by pirates from North Africa.

26 May

Drove an hour further down the Costa Blanca to Villajoyosa.  Our GPS coordinates inadvertently took us into a tiny village down a very narrow, windy road that was heading into the hills. Managed to squeeze in a U-turn and found our camp a few kilometres away on the opposite side of the road.  ‘Camping Alicante Imperium’ (20 euros), a modern campsite with great views of the mountain ranges and surrounding little villages.  Open all year round with wonderful pool and good facilities.  In an ideal location, 2kms from the town centre which has a tramline to Alicante and Benidorm.
Just as we were settling into our pitch, a couple who were also camped in Calpe pulled up into the site next to us :).  John and Suzanne a lovely couple from Devon.


Walked passed the chocolate factory and into town with it’s wonderful sandy beach with palm trees and promenade with eateries.  At the end of the beach we strolled around the beautiful old town, the main feature being its cheerful, colourful houses.  A  labyrinth network of streets and lanes run through this part of town with Roman ruins and medieval walls.  Archaeological remains dating back to the Bronze Age have also been found. 

In the sixteenth century new walls around the town as well as defensive towers around the coast were built to protect the people from the continuous and relentless attacks from the Barbary pirates.  Villajoyosa is known not only for its beautiful preserved old town, but also for its chocolate production.

Walked to the other end of the beach and went swimming.  Our first swim this trip in the Med, bliss!

27 May

Walked into town and caught the tram to Alicante.  A one hour trip, 8.50 euros return for two.  An excellent service, the pay machine on the tram accepts credit cards and notes along with the exact change.  Following the coastline passing terracotta and white washed houses and small beach backed by the barren mountain ranges - a Moroccan feel!  A wonderful view of a castle wall perched on a hill as we entered Alicante.  




Strolled the main avenue from
the Tram Station down to the sea and the marina.  





Decided to head to the castle we could see high up in the distance.  Followed the palm lined promenade around the marina then found a track and a steep climb up to the medieval “Castillo de Santa Bárbara.”  Free entry.




The magnificent fortification castle dates back to the tenth century and is perched 166 metres above the city.  











Climbed to its highest point for incredible views across the sea and were fascinated at the “relics from the past” museum.


It’s 2pm and we couldn’t find much open in town so enjoyed filled rolls and donuts with coffee for lunch.  





After lunch, we found not only the charming old town (Barrio de Santa Cruz), but most of the traditional eateries - we’ll know for next time!  The old town is located near the foot of the castle where the old Muslim Quarter used to be.  


Strolled the quaint narrow streets, passed unique, cute houses, alfresco eateries, lovely old church and funky cafes.
Swims back at camp.
Caught up with John and Suzanne for coffee.

28 May

Caught the tram to Benidorm, a fifteen minute trip, 4.60 euros return for two.  We were last here when we were kids in our VW Kombi van so out of curiosity, we had to see it again.  Wandered down the main street which is traditionally Spanish onto the waterfront promenade and everything changed.  


So pleased we’re not here in the busy July/August months.  The two beaches are crowded, blue umbrellas and bodies everywhere.  Aerobic and dance classes are in action with music and people with microphones blaring.  Lots of tourists, mostly Brits, good on them for getting out of the bleak cold weather.  Hard to believe this was once a tiny fishing village in the 60’s and has become a very popular Mediterranean holiday destination.  Walked the palm-lined promenade alongside its two wide sandy beaches, Levante and Poniente, passed bars and skyscrapers. 



It’s a surprise to find the old town located between the two beaches in this city of skyscrapers.  






Amongst the pubs, bars and ‘fish ’n chip signs’ and all the crowds is a walk up to the lovely eighteen century church, Iglesia de San Jaime, which takes in the vista from the Mirador de Benidorm, located on a promontory jutting into the sea. 






Left the tourists and strolled back into town where we found a traditional Spanish Restaurant, we were the only ‘tourists’.  






Set menu (all unknown to us) and presented with a great meal of chorizo soaked in cidar/asparagus, seafood rice, fish with salad and a chocolate bonbon.  Coffee and wine/cidar.  Col chose the cidar which was bought to him attached to a little plastic man who did all the pouring.  All good fun! 
Swims back at camp.
Caught up with John and Suzanne again for coffee and chat.






29 May

John and Suzanne headed off north this morning, slowly making their way back to Bilbao, always sad when new friends depart.  Pam spent the morning on the blog while Col checked and cleaned Lefty.