Saturday, May 18, 2019

Europe 2019 England, France - Normandy,Loire,Vienne,Dordogne,Pyrénées

Europe 2019


24 April - 28 April

The adventure continues…. year seven !….

A good flight with a difference, had to divert to Bali due to a medical emergency, poor girl had a miscarriage onboard.  A very short stopover in Singapore with no time for our usual sleep in the Transit Hotel so made the most of our 'transit dollars' in the Transit Lounge, showers and food.
Feeling refreshed onward to London.  Taxi from the Airport to Church Farm (74 Pounds) near Bosham where ‘Lefty’ (our Camper) is stored.  Wonderful to see our ‘little home’ after a full service and MOT.  ‘He’ now has a new water heating system with both electric and gas options. After purchasing a new Leisure Battery 'he' got the 'green light' and is all ready to go! 

Off to Hayling Island and our friend Nat’s place on the beach.  She owns the end part of “The Royal”, a quaint Victorian Hotel favoured by the Royals.
Met Nat's two cousins and had a fantastic few days staying at Nat’s, eating at the Indian Restaurant down the road in Mengham Town, biking along the 'Billy Trail' to the Bridge Pub to enjoy a sunset dinner, catching up with our friend Mary and becoming glamorous stars at her 'murder mystery dinner'.

Breakfast at our favourite cafe up the road, “ MadHatters”, and meeting the new owners.
Lovely sunny days however a bitterly cold wind, our thermals and woollies have come in very handy! On Monday 29 May, we’ll catch the ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe.  France here we come!:)

28 April

A beautiful day for a trip to Newhaven in East Sussex!  We're trying a different camp spot this year that offers cheap overnight camping located near the Port!  After a last hug and farewell to Mary and Nat we headed south east on the A27 towards Brighton.  Passed Arundel Castle ('William the Conqueror' days) and through Worthing with its lovely two storey brick ‘tudor style’ mansions.  Had a glimpse of The Brighton and Hove Albion Football Stadium as we bypassed Brighton and Lewes where Dad Laker was born.

Onwards to Newhaven and West Beach about 2kms from Newhaven Port.  The Camp spot is on West Beach, up the road from 'The New Hope Pub' (10 pounds).  We’ll stay overnight  to catch the 10am ferry to Dieppe from the Port at Newhaven.  There is an 8.30am check in time at the Port. 
A great inexpensive camp spot in an ideal location providing toilets and a coffee truck. 
Climbed up the white chalk cliffs and walked along the coastal promenade.  Spot Lefty below next to the beach!  



                                                    Sunday roast at the pub for dinner. 

29 April

Caught the ferry to Dieppe!  A perfect four hour crossing enjoying a cooked breakfast followed by our first ‘pain au chocolat’.  Wonderful to be in France and on such a beautiful day!  We’re in Normandy again, the largest region in France and yet there are no vineyards.  It’s a land of soft cheeses, apples, cream, seafood and fish and it’s traditional drink calvados.

En route to Neufchâtel-en-Bray in the Pay de Bray, a 46kms drive!  Through little farming villages and fields of wheat with patches of yellow rape, pastures and apple orchards.  Arrived at one of our favourite camps, Camping Sainte Claire(16 euros) and greeted by  Francine who always remembers us.  



The camp is located in the grounds of a picturesque farmstead with apple trees and is on the ‘London - Paris Avenue Verte’ (cycle path) with supermarket and shops up the road.  We’ve a fabulous pitch backing onto the river with views of the medieval town.  Walked to ‘Leclerc’ supermarket and stocked up.  




30 April - 1 May 


Sunny crisp days walking the ‘Verte cycle way’ which follows the old Dieppe - Paris railway line, even the small stations, parts of the track, signals and and barriers still exist.  Passed the beautiful 15th Century Château de Mesnières and gardens where a white peacock put on a display of his own, charming the ‘ladies’ with his strut and feather display.  Enjoyed the lovely old town of Mesnières-en-Bray and gorgeous surrounding countryside.


2 May

Planned on leaving today but the heavens opened, heavy rain, decided to stay put!  A cruisey day. Our plan is to travel fairly quickly through France, (which is always hard for us to do :), to get to Spain and Portugal before it gets too hot.

3 May

Off to the Loire today!



A crisp spring misty morning and the Normandy countryside looks glorious!  A beautiful drive on small country “D’ roads through lush rural countryside, rustic farms and farmlands dotted with apple blossoms and traditional small villages. Lovely old stone houses with wisteria clad balconies. 

Through Chaumont-en-Vexin and fields of wheat and brilliant yellow, (rape), over the Seine to Mantes, through pretty Nogent-le-Roi with it’s Château and skirting Chatres with it’s magnificent thirteenth century Basilica dominating in the distance.  Stopped for a picnic lunch near Châteaudun. After a picturesque five hour drive (including one hour for lunch) we arrived in Blois!  Travelled through the old town dominated by it’s magnificent sixteenth century ‘Château Royal de Blois’, crossed over the old bridge and headed to the camp we stayed in last year. 



‘Camping ‘Le Val de Blois’ on the banks of the Loire (18 euros) and on the ‘route’ à Velo’.  A spacious camp with good wifi and ideally situated for exploring the Loire Chateaux.





4 May

Awoke to rain and five degrees, a might chilly, however Lefty’s new power heater came into it’s own.  ‘Pain au chocolats’ and coffee for a treat.  Yum!

5 May

It’s a chilly day with showers, nevertheless, we wrapped up for a picturesque bike ride into the countryside, through vineyards of small vines (as it’s early in the season), little villages and farmlands to Chateau Chambord.  





A magnificent Château and one of our favourites!  Began in 1519 as a weekend hunting lodge for François I, however François found this elaborate place too draughty and only stayed here for 42 days during his entire reign from 1515-1547.  
French renaissance architecture and stunning, the grandest, largest and most visited in the Loire Valley. We had a picnic with a splendid view!




Back to camp following the Loire. 







6 May

Heading to the Vienne today!  

Awoke to four degrees inside the camper, thank goodness for thermals and Lefty’s super heater.  It’s a sunny, crisp day! 

Followed the scenic route to Limoges, signed ‘Bis Limoges’.  A very pretty drive through Cour Cheverny and Cheverny via Cheverny Château hidden behind parkland forest, (visited in 2012) following the ‘D675’.  Into the Touraine and ‘Le Fromage du Chevre’ following the Cher River passing ‘baby vine plants’ and ‘vin     dégustation’ signs, ‘the Route de Vignobles’.  

Through charming St Aignan-sur-Cher where we noted a great ‘aires’.  Passed what looked to be a  fabulous Zoo, ‘Beuval Zoo Park’, with natural boundaries and cable cars running back and forth overhead.  Into the vineyards, through forests, fields of wheat and countryside dotted with little hamlets.  
The Department of Indre and Loire!
Enjoying our very scenic, quiet route passing lovely old towns - Châtillon-sur-Indre, Azay-Le-Ferron and Martizay with it’s nice small ‘aires’.  ‘Le Blanc’ on the Vienne River and into the Limosin Region.  Turreted Châteaux, medieval villages, lush green countryside and oak trees.  Now following the scenic route to Toulouse, 'Bis Toulouse’, and the Route of Richard the Lionheart.  Had a bit of a mishap when we decided to turn off and take the small one way road along the Vienne River in search of a picnic spot, however Lefty couldn’t fit under the tunnel on the return one way route, so ended up going down the wrong side of the road, no cars coming thank goodness!  

Crossed the Vienne River to Rochechoart with it’s turreted château and found a great picnic spot near a lake and watched the fishermen.Through the Vienne via Nontron to gorgeous Brantôme named the ‘Venice of Périgord’ where we’ve passed through a couple of times.  As it’s late in the day we’ve decided to stay in the ‘Aires’ in the centre of town and move to the camp tomorrow morning.  (7.60 euros).  


It’s a beautiful evening so decided to stroll into ‘beautiful Brantôme’.  Five medieval bridges arching over the Dronne, lined by enchanting architecture, dominated by the Benedictine Abbey built from the eleventh to the eighteenth centuries and now occupied by the Hôtel de Ville.

7 May

Arrived at ‘Camping Brantôme Peyrelevade’ early and welcomed by Natalie on reception, who with her husband own the camp .  Natalie was great to practice my French with.  Camping Brantôme Peyrelevade is situated in parkland on the banks of the Dronne River with large pitches, swimming pool, speedy wifi and good facilities. (16 euros). The camp is within walking distance from Brantôme.  Found a great spot near the little sandy beach overlooking the Dronne.  Did the chores and enjoyed the sun.  We were surprised by the sound of a small pleasure boat which cruised passed us, some of the passengers waving and yelling ‘bonjour’.  Met Jan and Charlie, whilst doing the washing, two ‘kiwis’ from Christchurch.  A lovely couple making their way on bikes and trains through France to Prague and Budapest.

8 May

Rained during the night and into the day.  Enjoyed catching up with Jan and Charlie over coffee.The rain stopped late afternoon and we walked back into Brantôme.  





Pretty quiet in town, we realised it’s a Public Holiday in France today and most shops, cafes, restaurants closed at noon.






9 May

Charlie and Jan hit the road on bikes early this morning!  ‘Á bientôt’ to Natalie and off we went via Périgeux.  Into the Dordogne and rolling countryside dotted with castles, heading towards Bergerac.  Passed small stone farmsteads, through outcrops of trees and forests across 'La Dordogne'.  Onward passed orchards and walnut trees, through Monbazillac and the little vineyard ‘aires’ we stayed in last year.  Through the vineyards around Bergerac and onto Eymet  where we stopped for petrol and met a couple giving us the ‘thumbs up’ with big grins on a Harley Davidson.  They had passed us a few kilometres back and had seen our ‘NZ sticker’.  Kiwis who now live in Brisbane.   They said they’d keep an eye out for us in Spain :). 

Into the ‘Department de Lot et de La Garonne’ and wheat and fields of veggie seedlings, flower nurseries, and agricultural outlets.  Into the Val de Garonne passing Tonneins and across La Garonne.  Great biking on small country roads all around this area.  Down a very narrow country road onto the D11 and ‘Camping Moulin de Campech’ in wooded surroundings near an old water mill, near Damazan (18 euros).  It’s been a three hour drive from Brantôme to the camp, excluding a picnic lunch and a big supermarket shop.The camp is ideally situated to explore the ‘ Department of Lot et Garonne’.  The South West of France is dominated by ‘Bastide towns’, these are fortified towns and villages built both by the English and French dating back to the twelfth century.  Lots of ancient churches, chapels and shrines are dotted around the countryside.  The camp is also on the edge of the ‘Armagnac’ producing region.  We explored the area last year.‘Camping Moulin de Campeche is a lovely small ‘homely’ camp, with trout fishing pond, swimming pool, good facilities, restaurant, big pitches and satellite wifi, costs one euro for half an hour.  George and Sue own and run the camp, they’re an English couple.  Found a great pitch and settled in.  Met Sharon and Paul in their ‘oldie but goodie’ Burstner van with the big IRL sticker.  Took advantage of the camp’s wonderful ‘book swap library’

10 May

Walks and enjoying the sun with book and coffee in hand.

11 May 


Heading to the Pyénées today!   ‘Á beintôt’ to George and Sue, and with ‘baguette and pain au chocolats’ in hand, we hit the road!  Followed small country roads into ‘Les Landes’ (D933) and the pine forests passed ‘Armagnac signs’ and through the bastide ‘St Justin’ where we stayed last year.  Following ‘the Routes des Pyrénées’ heading towards Pau.  Though the farmlands and vineyards, across the L’Adour at Aire-sur-L’Adour, fields of veggie seedlings, and farms into the Department Pyrénées Atlantique and rolling countryside.  Now at the foot of the snow capped Pyrénées about 8kms from Pau.  Climbing via Pau into the foothills and over Le Peu de Gave River, ‘stations de ski’ signs into the Valleé D’Ossau and the Parc Nationale des Pyrénées.  The Pyrénées form a natural frontier between southwest France and northern Spain.  End to end they cover a total distance of around 430kms including the 100km strip pf protected land known as the Parc National des Pyrénées created in 1967 and a haven for rare wild life such as eagles, griffon vultures, wizards (a type of goat) and some of the last remaining wild brown bears left in France.

Following the Ossau River through the Vallée D’Ossau and the little town of Louvie-Juzon to ‘Camping Le Rey’ at the foot of Le Rey mountain in the Pyrénées (16 euros).  A small, tranquil campsite (at this time of year), with good facilities, wifi and walking distance to Louvie-Juzon.  Good walking and cycling opportunities from the camp.  Met Céline and Anaud a very nice couple who own and run the camp.  Found a great pitch with a nice view and surrounded by woods.  


We have a regular visitor, ‘Jazzy’ the very friendly camp Pyrénéean Mountain dog who loves our biscuits.  The traditional use of these guarding dogs (also called ‘patou’) disappeared with the scarceness of large predators in the early century.  With the return of wolves, bears and lynx these dogs are now a valuable asset to farmers and shepherds for protecting their flocks of sheep.  They are not trained to attack but to deter.  The ‘patou’ are born inside the fold and therefore forge strong bonds with the sheep, they live permanently in the flock. 

12 May

A fabulous day for a ‘randonée’ into the hills following a circular route which we started at the end of our camp.  Through the forest and rolling farmers fields, small hamlets and into St Colomb, a characteristic town dating back to the twelfth century and on the ‘Compostella Pilgrims Route’.  



Had a picnic in the sun overlooking the Valley.  Met the ‘donkey family’ on our return leg.





13 May

Took the path from the camp down into the Valley to Louvie-Juzon.  Followed the Ossau River lined with some beautiful old houses, some needing an urgent makeover.  Great biking and hiking here.  Arnaud helped Col fix Lefty’s ‘entry door’ which had become hard to close. Fixed now!


                                                    Crossing into Spain tomorrow :)



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