Europe 2019 Spain - Costa Cálida, Costa Del Sol, Andalucia

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30 May

Left our lovely camp in Villajoyosa on the Costa Blanca and headed further down the coast to the Costa Cálida.  

Passed the characteristic terracotta and white washed beach resorts with a ‘Moroccan feel’ via Alicante and the Castello de Santa Bárbara in the distance.  

Through the valley and the lemon groves and small settlements backed by barren mountain ranges.  Via Murcia and into the Sierra Espuña Natural Reserve.  Into Spaghetti Western country and an amazing landscape with a desert feel!  

Barren, arid terrain, olive groves, cactus, palms and rows of shade cloth protecting young fruit trees, almond trees and veggies from the heat as well as the cold at night.  Into the Region of Murcia and over the hills to the sea.  Following the coastal road via ‘white washed’ seaside town Águilas, to ‘Camping Bellavista’ situated 3kms from Águilas on the Costa Cálida.  This region, (Warm Coast), is the 250 stretch of Mediterranean coastline in the Province of Murcia.  The region has a micro-climate with hot temperatures and some aridity (less than 34cm of rain annually).

31 May

Had a fabulous day exploring Águilas.  Followed the coastal path alongside the beach onto the promenade into picturesque Águilas which sits under the Castillo San Juan De Las Águilas.  This town seems quite unknown as a tourist place.  It’s visited mainly by the  locals and also tourists with inside knowledge of the town's great beaches and climate.

There are two sandy beaches and one pebbly beach in the town centre.  Strolled the characteristic beach promenade with its eateries and steam locomotive monument to the end of town with its charming port.  

Appreciated the funky work of local artists as we climbed the colourful stairs up to the top of the castle, for a wonderful vista of the town and its surroundings.  The castle was originally erected as a sixteenth century defensive fortress to protect against pirate attacks. Climbed up to the Aguilica Peak look-out point, eroded and looks like an eagle’s beak.

On our return we left the promenade and climbed the sets of stairs up into the 'old quarter', along narrow winding lanes passing cute Greek style houses to the old ‘Sagrera' flour mill.  No longer in use but very much a part of Águilas.

Back to the promenade where we had a fabulous lunch overlooking the beach with its palms and clear blue water.  The Greek Islands comes to mind as we enjoyed our tomato, cheese, olive and anchovy salad, two calamari dishes, and prawn fritters on a 'Greek style table’.

1 June

Spent a glorious day relaxing under the shade cloth and in the pool!  Chatted to our nice neighbours from Manchester who have lived in Spain for nine years.  Both speak Spanish fluently.

2 June

Its another beautiful day!  Decided to stay an extra day and walk the coastal pathway in the opposite direction of Águilas town centre.  A scenic walk along the cliff tops with its long series of unspoilt and picturesque sandy beaches, rocky coves, and funky little eateries. 
                                                Reminds us of the Greek Islands! 

It’s Sunday and the locals are making the most of their “beach day out”.  One of the bays with easy road access, is very popular with camper vans mainly with an ‘E sticker’ (Spanish), parked overlooking the beach.  Some are free camping, a beautiful spot!  Stopped for a drink at one of the eateries in the middle of a long sandy beach, then continued our walk back into Águilas.  

Enjoyed a chicken lunch overlooking the beach.

Swims back at camp!

3 June

Heading further down the coast to Mojacár into the Andalucia Region following the cliff top coast road around the rocky coves.  A stunning drive looking out to sea, terracotta roofs and white washed houses.  Palms and oleanders against a back drop of barren hills.  Through Villaricos with its shade cloth covered fruit and veggie patches and passed the campers parked in the ‘Aires’ on the beach around Garrucha. 

Into Mojácar and ‘Camping El Cantal De Mojácar Playa’ (25 euros).  Supposed to stay a minimum of two nights here but the owner let us book for one night.  Ideal location to walk to Mojacár old town and beaches.  Facilities basic, but  clean.  A non ASCI camp  

Climbed the 5kms up into Mojácar Pueblo (old town).
Moorish, white washed, charming hilltop town perched in the foothills of the Sierra Cabrera. Came across a chameleon on the footpath, a beautiful green colour.  Strolled the narrow streets and alleyways lined with geranium pots, climbed the stairs to the    top for a wonderful panorama.

Explored the long sandy beach below the old town geared towards the Brits.  Eateries, bars and white washed apartments down the opposite end.  Music from the ‘disco bar’ - you can see this place ‘rocks’ particularly over busy July and August.   

4 June 

Heading to Granada today!  Into the barren hills.  White washed hilltop towns scattered in the distance and patches of fertile land growing fruit and olive trees.  Small farm settlements around the groves.  Passed hilltop Sorbas and rows and rows of olive trees, through Tabernas and into 'cowboy country'.

People are visiting Hollywood Western Movie sets, bizarre seeing the sets in the middle of barren hills but a perfect landscape!  Lefty is having to do some climbing over the hills and through Géras into the Parque Natural de Sierra Nevada.  Through the valley and surprised to see snow on the ranges, evidently there is all year skiing around here. 

All of a sudden it’s got busy as we near Granada.  

Took the ring road up into the Sierra Nevadas and up to ‘Camping Las Lomas’, overlooking stunning mountain scenery and a beautiful water reservoir (20 euros).  Great pool and facilities.  Thrilled to get online and purchase tickets to the Alhambra as June was fully booked, we were able to take advantage of a cancellation.

5 June

Caught the bus into Granada (7.20 euros for two return) and made our way through the historical city centre and climbed up to one the most visited sites in Spain, the Alhambra.  Went for a ‘recce’ in preparation for our visit tomorrow.   

Took a narrow path that lead us back down to the river then another steep climb to the former Arabic barrio, ‘Albaicin’ which is also Granada’s bohemian and artistic centre.   We wound through the cobbled streets, passed the white washed houses, flowered squares and eateries'.  Pretty, rustic, and quaint with a traditional feel!  

Decided to climb up the path and stairs to the highest point, ‘Emita de San Miguel Alto’, for spectacular views of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada mountains.  

Had a fabulous calamari lunch in the barrio, enjoyed the flamenco guitarist and browsed the markets.  Strolled passed tapas bars, restaurants and cafes to the giant Cathedral of Granada.  Listened to a  talented busker singing Phil Collins songs as we wandered through Plaza Nueva Square. The Square is busy and bright and favoured by street performers. 

Its been a fabulous day rambling this beautiful, fascinating chilled out city!

Early evening we caught the bus back into the Sierra Nevada and our camp.

6 June

What a glorious day spent at the Alhambra Palace!  We took the entire day to explore the beautiful Generalife Gardens - the leisure place for the Kings of Granada;  the Alcazaba - the fortified military compound and the Nazaries Palace - residence of the Kings of Granada. 

The Nazaries Palace was the only part of the Alhambra we had to book and got an elected time of 3pm.  

A very spiritual place and a joy to wander around at leisure taking in the incredible views, the architecture, workmanship, creativity and history of the place dating back to 889AD.  
The Alhambra was ignored until the thirteenth century when a rebuild of the palatial city was begun by Muhammad I, founder of the Nazrid Dynasty.

We took time out at lunchtime to wander back downhill for a tasty chorizo tortilla, with salad and a coke with plenty of ice!  

A magical day in what has become one of our favourite cities.

7 June - 9 June

Well deserved rest and catch up days after having walked 'our feet off'.  Spent time in the beautiful pool overlooking the Sierra mountains, got some reading done and just caught up with ourselves.  It’s so picturesque, quiet and relaxing here. 

10 June

Decided to have a final explore of this area before we leave tomorrow.

Crossed over the road from our camp and headed up into the hills through farmers orchards, passed goats, chook runs  and small irrigation channels into Güéjar Sierra.  The origins of this little mountain village date back to when it was an Islamic silk producing hamlet dependent on the capital, Granada.  A peaceful stroll through the narrow streets and alleyways, lovely square passed the traditional butcher and bakery surrounded by a fabulous vista of the Sierra Nevada mountains.  

Headed to the end of town and down the windy narrow road to the start of the reservoir where we followed the old railway line path, ‘via verde of the Sierra Nevada’.  A very scenic route through the Sierra Nevadas following the River Genil.  The line was built in 1890 to transport minerals extracted from various mines in the area.  The path took us to Restaurant Maitena with it’s alfresco tables under the shade beside the river.  Enjoyed a wonderful lamb lunch in a superb setting.  

After lunch headed up into the mountains through tunnels, climbing higher, steep in some parts, for spectacular views!  Surprised to see cherry orchards, loaded with cherries, in the valleys of these vast mountain ranges.  After 20kms and some challenging climbing, we returned back to camp via the road through Güéjar Sierra. 

What a beautiful area the Sierra Nevada is, hiking, mountain biking and skiing is ‘king’ here in the winter months.

Off to Estepona or Gibralter tomorrow!