Saturday, June 9, 2018

Europe 2018 Chablis,The Burgundy Canal-Côte d'Or

26 May

After an awesome stay in Merry-sur-Yonne, we said ‘à bientôt’ to Zachery and David who couldn’t do enough for us!  Hit the small farm roads into the lush countryside passed traditional villages, via Vermenton into rolling ‘vineyard country’ to Chablis, a short 50kms journey.  

Found Municipal ‘Camping Serein’ (15 Euros) located on the Serein River and about 1km walk from town.  Found a big shaded pitch and popped into town for a ‘look’.   
Chablis is situated in the north of Burgundy and referred two as ‘the Golden Gate to Burgundy’.  It dates back to the Middle Ages when the monks of Saint Martin from Tours regrouped in Chablis after the Viking invasion and were the first to cultivate wine here.  There are 16,800 hectares of vines across fourteen villages.  Chablis is made exclusively from chardonnay grapes and is divided into four AOC’s:  Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and most prestigious of all, Chablis Grand Cru.  The seven grand crus are grown on just one square kilometre of land on the hillsides north east of town.  40 million bottles leave the Chablis area to be enjoyed throughout the world!


Crossed over the bridge and strolled into this beautiful, 'well to-do' town with it's lovely parks and traditional houses.


There are dozens of houses/chateaux where wines can be sampled and purchased from the producteur (wine producer) or vigneron (wine grower), many have ‘dégustation gratuit’ signs outside (free tasting).  


Quaint little alfresco bars and eateries along the river and down streets backing onto the river make having a ‘glass of Chablis’ a memorable experience.    





27 May

Market day today and another stunning day!  Had fun strolling the stalls in the morning and walked the hilltop vineyards counting the seven grand cru houses that dominated Chablis.  




A beautiful panorama from the top.  Still not had our compulsory glass of Chablis as yet!   







28 May 

Late afternoon the rain stopped and the kind camp proprietor invited us to a ‘chablis tasting’ with our fellow campers.  Nice meeting people and practicing our French, the chablis wasn’t too bad either!






29 May

A big catch up today with our Kiwi friends Dr Keith and Jan who we met five years ago in France.  They’re touring for three months in their flash VW Van.  Lots of laughs, ‘chablis sampling’ and a ‘wander’ around the town which is ‘sleepy today, shops and 
eateries closed!

30 May

Whilst Keith and Jan walked into the vineyards Pam and Col ‘hit the road’ on bike.  Through rolling pastureland, fields of small sunflower plants, wooded hills and cute farming hamlets to Noyers-sur-Serein.  Noyers-sur-Serein is a fortified medieval town on the Serein River.  
Strolled the narrow cobbled streets of this beautiful town, through wood and stone archways, passed quaint alfresco eateries, fifteenth and sixteenth century gabled houses and quirky art galleries.  



Met ‘Elvis’ at the market and admired the silver antique rings.  Had a picnic on the banks of the Serein and discovered a gated little Municipal Camp with six camping places.  You can get the key from the Town Hall and let yourself in.  


Walked around the towns thirteenth century fortifications which enclose much of the town.
51kms and back at camp just in time to beat the thunderstorm!





31 May

After a wonderful ‘pains au chocolats’ and ‘grands cafes’ breakfast in town, we said our farewells to Keith and Jan and hope to meet up again further down the track.  Headed 50kms through the countryside to the Burgundy Canal (Canal de Bourgogne).  The canal connects the river Yonne at Migennes with the Saône at St-Jean-de-Losne.  Construction began in 1775 and was completed in 1832.  It has 209 locks and is 242kms long.   
Went to the ‘Municipal Camp’ (15 euros) at Montbard about 1km from town and the canal.  Had lunch whilst we waited a couple of hours for reception to open and selected a large pitch with both sun and shade.  There is a swimming pool complex next to the camp with free entry for campers, bar and BBQ’s.

1 June

Walked the cycle path into Montbard decked out in our wet weather gear, it’s pouring!  Climbed up to the Church and strolled through Parc Buffon built around the remains of the Château de Montbard which includes the Aubespin Tower overlooking the town.  Back down into town and followed the ‘pink markers’ to the start of the walking trail to Abbaye de Fontenay. 
A winding narrow trail ‘up and down’ through the forest following the Brenne river to the magnificent  Abbaye de Fontenay,  founded in 1118 and restored to it’s medieval glory a century ago.  It was home to the Cistercian monks who lived lives of contemplation, prayer and manual labour.  The Abbaye includes a Romanesque Church, Monks dormitory, manicured gardens and the first metallurgical factory in Europe.  Had a picnic by the river then began the return journey.  



Into Montbard and through the pretty ‘Old Town’ along the Brenne River as we headed back to camp.  16kms return trip. 







2 June


A stunning day following the Burgundy Canal out into the countryside through little stone hamlets, passing canal boats surrounded by rolling hills dotted with medieval villages.  Arrived at Venarey-Les Laumes to ‘sus out’ our next camp, ‘Municipal Camping Alesia'.  Looks like an ideal camp to base ourselves with large pitches and good facilities.  Rode over the bridge that backed onto the camp and discovered a lovely park with a lake popular with fisherman, and a funky little eatery in the shade.  


Joined the ‘locals’ there for a ‘home cooked’ lunch and coffee overlooking the lake, the chocolate ice creams topped it off nicely!  Explored the little town dominated by an excellent TGV Train Station and two ‘Dijon Cereal’ Factories, with boulangeries/patisseries and eateries in the centre and a large ‘Super U’ complex on the outskirts.  
2kms out of town we stopped at the ‘Alesia Museo Park’ which is an interactive Park depicting the ‘Battle of Alesia’. The engagement between the Gauls and the Romans is considered one of Caesar’s greatest military achievements and marked the end of the Gallic independence in France and Belgium.  



As we headed back along the canal we made a detour into the countryside, winding up the slopes to a medieval hilltop village, ‘Granges sous Grignon’, ('Granges' being the small village below hilltop 'Grignon').  Welcomed by ‘the singing frogs’ as we made it to the top for a nice panorama!
46kms and coffee back at camp.  


3 June

Another perfect bike day along the canal, this time in the opposite direction towards Tonnerre.  A  stop at the Grande Forge de Buffon designed by George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon and built between 1768 and 1772.  It began iron production in 1769.  Burgundy is a region known for iron-making.  Through the woods and little hamlets following the canal.  Passed St Remy and climbed up the hill into the centre of medieval Buffon on our return trip.  42kms and coffee and relax.

4 June

Rest day relaxing and enjoying the sun!

5 June

Moved from our site at Montbard and travelled 20kms down the road to ‘Municipal Camping Alesia’ we visited a couple of days ago. (16 euros).  Found a nice pitch and watched a group of cyclists pitching their tents.  A Dutch couple who have cycled all over the world, including New Zealand, kindly shared their cycling knowledge with us and showed us some of their very practical equipment including chairs and comfy bed mattress.



6 June

A fantastic day biking through pretty rolling Auxios countryside to the hilltop village of Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, a member of the ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France' (‘France’s most beautiful villages’).  The village was the setting for the film ‘Chocolat’ starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche, but in ‘real life’ the village is famous not for chocolate, but for aniseed lollies.  Flavigny-sur-Ozerain was an Auxois stronghold on which the Gallo-Roman period, the rise of Christianity in Europe and Renaissance have left their mark.  The Benedictine Abbey dates back to the eighth century.


Slowly wound up the steep hill to the picturesque village in a ‘fairytale setting’ on top of its rocky spur.  Through the archway and fortified gates into the charming narrow cobbled streets where paintings of the inhabitants are exhibited on the buildings and houses as part of an ‘Art Exhibition’.  There are 340 residents here.  

Down to the Abbey of Saint Pierre and the Aniseed Museum and some ‘aniseed lolly sampling’.  It’s an amazing story where men and women brought seeds, sugar and expertise to Flavigny and built a beautiful abbey where the sweets are still made today.  

The Abbey is the only place where famous ‘Anis de Flavigny’ sweets are made and there are lots of flavours to sample.  The recipe for this natural product has remained unchanged since the sixteenth century.  Coffee in the Abbey grounds and more exploring in the church and the ramparts.


Back via the village of Pouillenay and a scenic hilly ride through the countryside to medieval Semur-en-Auxois.  The town is built on a pink granite spur and since the tenth century has been protected by a fortress flanked by four huge corner towers.  

Strolled through the medieval gateway into this beautiful buzzy town, along charming cobbled streets with cafes, shops and cathedral up to the magnificent fortress which looks onto the picturesque valley of the Armançon River with it’s weeping willows and weirs. 




Took a different route back to camp through small farm hamlets and a 9kms ride on the canal. 51kms.








7 June

Showery catch up day.

8 June

Drove 40kms to Pouilly-en-Auxois and ‘Municipal Camping Le Vert Auxois’ (17 euros) with swimming pool, five minutes from town and on the Burgundy Canal.  Chose a great site  backing onto the wheat fields, luckily we had extra power cable so that we could connect to electricity.  A ‘recce' through the cute town lead us to a bar/cafe where we are able to watch the ‘All Blacks Game’ tomorrow morning.  We’re 'happy campers' :).

Followed a scenic walking path through the woods towards Dijon, then in the opposite direction along the canal towards Venarey-Les-Laumes and onward to the Port.  This is the highest part of the Burgundy Canal which passes through a 3333 metres tunnel under the town.  Pretty amazing!  There is a green/red light system to ensure there are no collisions as the canal boats pass through the tunnel.



10kms and back at camp just before dark.







9 June 

Headed to ‘Les Sporting’ to watch the ‘All Blacks vs France Test Match’, 9.30am kick-off!  

We’re too far North to be a rugby area, so apart from the table of ‘monsieurs’ giving us the odd bit of ‘cheek’, we watched the game on our own.  Exciting first half and then the All Blacks came through with flying colours!
Later on we enjoyed an ‘escargots et frîtes’ lunch at the alfresco part of ‘Les Sporting’ and chatted with the very kind owner. 









    

      


  




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