Italy via Switzerland

16 June  

After a fantastic week in Vienna, we hit the road en route to Italy!  Drove via Linz and pretty Lake Mondsee in the Austrian Lake District.  A lovely region!  We stayed at Lake Wolfgangsee near Lake Mondsee last year.  Via Salzburg, into Germany where we struck ‘border control’, passed through into Bavaria and onward to Lake Chiemsee.  

Found our campsite, Camp Mowenplatz (24 euros, includes a lake front pitch).  A beaut and on the cycle path!  As we arrived the wind came up but we still enjoyed our coffee on the lake side, then came the rain! 

17 June

Woke to blue skies and a beautiful calm lake, perfect for a bike ride!  Took the cycle path around the lake through pretty villages, beach tracks, woods, and farmland.  The northern part of the lake was particularly picturesque!  

As we passed through Gstadt we spotted a glimpse of King Ludwig II’s Royal Castle on the island of Herreninsel.  

It's possible to take a boat over to the island.  A 51kms round trip and happy to be back at camp!   

18 June

Left Lake Chiemsee heading to Lake Constance via Munich.  Popped into Austria through Bergen and then into Switzerland where we purchased a motorway vignette at the border (40 euros expires 31 January 2017, valid for one year if purchased in December 2015).  Through St Margrethen and around Lake Constance onto the Swiss side, into the countryside to Winden and Camp Manser (19 euros) ‘on the farm’ and 4kms from the Lake.  Dominik the farmer and camp owner farms cattle and has apple orchards.  

Went for an early evening walk on the narrow country roads passed the goats and apple orchards, through a farming hamlet and up to the pretty farming town of Winden where we found the ‘banhof’, train station.  We met our neighbours Gerry, Pete and dog Sarah, from Holland.

19 June

Gerry, Pete and Sarah dropped us off in St Gallen on their way to visit their daughter in the mountains.  St Gallen was founded by an Irish monk, St Gall, in 612.  Legend says that St Gall was in the woods warming his hands over a fire when a bear charged and was rebuked by St Gall. The bear was so awe struck by his presence, he gathered wood to share the fire with the monk. For the rest of his days St Gall was followed around by his companion the bear!!  Today bears have started to return to the area and are being encouraged.  

St Gallen is a university town and a great starting point for excursions into the Appenzellerland (mountains).  Explored the quaint traffic free old town then caught the train back to camp (13.70 euros for two).  Cooked dinner in the camp kitchen, a novelty for European camps.  Evidently Dominik has been to New Zealand and has copied the idea. 

20 June

It’s a beautiful day so we took the opportunity to drive through the Alps and into Italy.

A stunning drive, backed by the Alps, passing ski villages and into the valley and gorges following the river Hinterrhein.  



Through alpine tunnels including the St Bernadino Tunnel for 6kms (free) and lunch over looking the Mesocco Valley.  Passed fortified castles and medieval villages and into the Region Lago Maggiore.  Onward to Brissago and border control into Italy, and the Italian part of Lake Maggiore.   

Lake Maggiore is situated on the south side of the Alps, it’s shared by Italy’s Piedmont and Lombardy regions and Switzerland’s Ticino canton.  Evidently it was discovered in the nineteenth century, travellers' and artists’ description of the area helped to make it a favourite destination of the European upper classes.  We followed the road hugging the lake, somewhat scary for Lefty, as it’s narrow and busy, however very picturesque.  Found camping ‘La Sierra’ at Ghiffa, a terraced camp on the lake.  (13 euros).  Chose a great pitch with wonderful views over the lake.  Cooled off at the camp beach.
Biking seems a bit risky around this part of the lake so think it's a good idea to bus, especially as the bus stop is conveniently located fifty metres from the camp.

21 June

We didn't find the bus stop so flagged down the bus!  The driver kindly stopped and the Italians aboard 'took us under their wing' amidst lots of laughter (5 euros).  Love the Italians, such a fun loving, gregarious race!   Enjoyed the scenic ride to the old fishing village of Cannóbio.  

Strolled down to the lake front through the narrow cobbled streets, passed colourful villas and alfresco eateries to the square for coffee.  Explored the surrounding area and caught the bus home late afternoon.

22 June

Found the bus stop this time and caught the bus in the opposite direction to yesterday, to Verbania (free, as the bus driver waved us through!).  Verbena is known as ‘a garden on the lake’. It's situated on the Borromean Gulf and is known for it’s gardens and parks.  A boat can take you to the Borromean Islands where you can visit the gardens and palaces of the Borromeo aristocrats.  Explored the cobbled narrow streets with colourful buildings, alfresco eateries and shops.  

After we’d had an explore and Col had a haircut and an ‘eau de cologne spray’, very nice, we strolled over the bridge out of town.  Found a promenade around the lake passed magnificent nineteenth and twentieth century villas.  Evidently these villas were summer residences of the English and Italian aristocracy.  Lots of restoration going on!

Followed the promenade to the historic town of Pallanza.  Pallanza and Intra are the two main centres in the municipality of Verbania.  Wandered the beautiful lake front promenade with the lake and the Borromean Islands on one side and colourful facades, flowered balconies, cafes and terraces on the other side.  

Explored the old town and visited the park and gardens of Villa Giulia directly on the lake shore.  
Enjoyed a spaghetti lunch before returning to Verbania to catch the bus back to camp.

23 June

Drove the 40kms to Lake Orta, west of Lake Maggiore, to ‘Camping Orta’, a terraced camp on the lake.  The lake is so beautiful we couldn’t resist the pitch offered to us right on the lake front (28 euros lake front, ACSI 17 euros).  The lake is our backyard and absolutely beautiful. Had a swim and met our neighbours, Maggie and Dave from Northumberland.

Walked into Orta along a very picturesque lake side path.  Prior to the sixteenth century, Lake Orta was called Lago di San Giulio after Saint Julius, the patron saint of the region.  It's built on the slopes of a steep hill that forms a peninsula jutting out into the lake.  It looks over the island of San Giulio (Isola San Giulio).  Had a quick look around this charming little town before it got dark and decided to return tomorrow for an explore.

24 June

Back to Orta today along the lake path for an explore!  Lake Orta is less developed than other lakes, it's quieter and the prices on the menus cheaper.

Wandered the charming narrow streets into the square with it’s coloured buildings and eateries.  

Up the hill to the fifteenth century church then caught a boat to Isola San Guilio and walked the circular path around the Benedictine monastery.  (9 euros return for two). 

Back to camp and more swimming!  

Late evening we watched a fireworks display over the lake.  There must be a wedding celebration in Orta!

Massive thunderstorm during the night!

25 June

Wet and wild until lunchtime then we went swimming!  Spent the evening with Maggie and Dave at the Camp Bar and Restaurant watching Euro 16, Wales v Northern Ireland over beers.

26 June

A great day for a bike ride so decided to bike around Lake Orta!  Ended up taking the more difficult route as the cycleway near the lake was wet, uneven and rocky, too slow going.  Climbed up to Agrano where we met an Italian cyclist who suggested we visit the sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso (Our Lady of the Rock) built near the hamlet of the same name.  We could see the sanctuary on the opposite side of the lake in the distance, on a huge granite rock-face overhanging the lake below.  

With that thought in mind, we continued via Omegna and another climb through Nònio, caught a glimpse of Isola San Guilio, and onward to Centenary.  Beautiful landscapes and a good workout!  

We followed the signs to the Madonna, a steep climb for 4kms and ‘jelly legs’ to the top.  However well worth the effort, unsurpassed views of Lake Orta and the mountains dominating and the magnificent, sacred, Madonna del Sasso.  Built in the eighteenth century on the site of a previous medieval chapel with a huge frescoed dome.  Decided to descend quickly as a thunderstorm was imminent!  

Down to Pella and across to Orta and shelter.

Back to camp and drinks with neighbours, Jo and Tony from England who live permanently in France.

27 June

A glorious day!  Swimming and lazing in the sun in-between chatting to Dave and Maggie.  In the evening watched England versus Iceland up at the Camp Bar and Restaurant with Maggie and Dave. 

28 June

Hiked up the San Nicolao hill with a great view of our camp, to the Sacro Monte di Orta (the Sacred Mount of Orta) complex on the summit.  This devotional complex was constructed in the sixteenth and seventeenth century and fits in perfecting with the surrounding woody landscape overlooking Lake, Orta and Isola di San Giulio.  It’s dedication to Saint Francis of Assisi instead of to Christ or the Madonna makes it different from other Sacred Mounts. 

Visited the Church of St Nicolao and strolled around the twenty chapels with beautiful frescoes and containing models depicting episodes of the life of the saint.  Took an alternative path alongside the lake via Orta, back to camp.

Had a great pasta dinner in Orta with Maggie and Dave.

29 June   

Spent our last day enjoying the lake!  Nice to see a turtle visiting.  Lake Orta is one of the most beautiful places we’ve been to and we will return. 
Spent a great evening with Maggie and Dave overlooking our ‘enchanting’ lake

30 June 

Goodbyes to Maggie and Dave and we hit the road!  Started the climb towards the Simplon Pass as far as Iselle di Trasquera.  Found the train station for the ‘vehicle carrying train’  that will take us through the Simplon Tunnel.  However when we arrived it was a ‘ghost town’, no people, no ticket office, nothing!  Turned out we just had to park at the station, wait for the train, drive onto the vehicle carriage and pay once we arrived at Brig in Switzerland.  A weird sensation sitting in Lefty whilst being towed through the tunnel, but a great way to get through the pass.  A twenty minute ride (20 euros).  Found our camp, Camping Schwimmbad Muhleye ten minutes from the town centre and the train station.  (21 euros).