14.06
As well as Cro-Magnum Man settling
here, the Dordogne region is known for it’s rolling countryside and historic
Bastides (fortified castles). An
absolutely beautiful region, can’t make up our minds which is more beautiful,
the Loire or the Dordogne region. Did a
recce through the back roads, river and the valley with the village of Domme
and it’s castle set high above us. We’ve met some great people here
including Gwen and Chris from Shropshire, Ian and Jan from Hayling Island and
Phillip and his Dad from York.
15.06
A brisk 10kms walk/run along the
Dordogne to the little village of Ceynac and up the winding narrow road to the
Domme bastide. We walked through the
medieval village to ‘La Belevdere’ (view point) for a panorama of the Dordogne
valley way below. Domme was founded by
Philippe of France in 1281 as a Bastion against the English.
In the afternoon we biked through the
back roads and farmlands with their crops of wheat, corn, asparagus and potatoes
via Ceynac, over one of the many bridges crossing the Dordogne to the village
of La Roque Gageac with it’s buildings crammed into the cliff face above the
Dordogne. We walked the meandering lanes
and up the steps through the village to the fort, for a stunning view of the
Dordogne with it’s many kayakers taking advantage of the spectacular scenery.
We continued our ride though the
countryside, up the steep narrow road to Chateau Castelnaud, about 5kms from La
Roque. We walked through this pretty medieval
village up to the castle for a spectacular panorama right across the Dordogne
Valley with the Chateau de Beynac and Chateau des Milandes in the distance.
We found a ‘Shopi’ in Ceynac and
loaded our backpacks with supplies before heading back to camp – 30kms. We invited the ‘crew’ we’ve met for
pre dinner drinks and BYO dinner – fabulous, fun evening which carried on into
the ‘wee hours’!!
16.06
A beautiful day spent around the pool
– bliss!! We decided to move ‘Lefty’
onto the banks of the Dordogne for a ‘million dollar’ view with it’s kayakers, swans,
ducks and ‘frog orchestra’. Wonderful!!
We had a healthy dinner! (pizza, frites
and beer) at the camp Restaurant (31 euros).
David and Fabienne are the Camp Proprietors, a fun couple who offer a
fantastic service, nothing is a problem here!!
We chatted (great practice for our French) and to complete the evening, David
presented us with what he called ‘a patchwork surprise’ – an assortment of
liqueurs for tasting!
17.06
Lefty’s door has been getting harder
and harder to shut due to a misalignment with the framework. David (our camp Proprietor) introduced us
to the camps ‘Mr fix it,’ Thierry, who
made a few adjustments added some screws and ‘voila’ we can now close our
door. A bottle of Terry’s favourite wine
is on order as he wouldn’t take any payment.
In saying this, we continue to appreciate the kindness and generosity of
the French people, a fun loving people who have lots of energy and who are
always keen to try out something new.
We met Graham and Karen (from Milton)
who invited us to look inside their Burstner ‘Elegance’ which is up for
sale. Very nice!!
We biked to Chateau de Beynac, looming
atop a limestone bluff 5km northwest of La Roque. A pretty ride winding through
the countryside up to the Chateau. We
walked to the outlook for a spectacular panoramic view above the Dordogne. The Chateau’s position made it a key
defensive position during the Hundred Years War. Apart from a brief stint here by Richard the
Lion heart, Beynac remained loyal to France placing it at odds with the English
stronghold of nearby Castelnaud. In the evening, a cider with Dave, a character
from Liverpool.
We battened down the hatches as the
rain has hit!
18.06
After expecting a storm, we woke to an
overcast but warm day with sporadic sun!
Good opportunity for a catch up day!
19.06
The storm has finally hit and it’s windy and wet! A relaxing kindle day! ‘Goodbyes’ to Chris and Gwen, hope to catch
them again further South. Dave took us for a big grocery shop
near Sarlat in his Navara wagon. Had a laugh when he purchased a 27 Euro bottle
of wine thinking it was 2.70. The check
out girl was not as amused as we were!!
20.06
Hiked 10kms along the small farm back roads of walnut trees, fields of corn and wheat, passed the kayak/canoe hire, rural campsites and charming old farmhouses into the surrounding countryside. Domme looms in the distance.
Hiked 10kms along the small farm back roads of walnut trees, fields of corn and wheat, passed the kayak/canoe hire, rural campsites and charming old farmhouses into the surrounding countryside. Domme looms in the distance.
21.06
Walked along the main street exploring the charming twisting alleyways and back streets with their cafes and little restaurants. Up the stairs to the Cathedral built in the 1100’s and down to the Square with its ‘bronze canards’ (ducks), this is a region of ‘Foie Gras (duck liver pate). We can see why more movies have been shot here than anywhere else in France, besides Nice and Paris! Leaving the town centre Pamo stopped at a ‘velo’ outlet where the ‘tres gentils’ proprietor gave her bike a full service – gratuite! (free of charge) 32 kms and back to Camp.
Later in the evening we took advantage of the
Music Festival and hiked the 8 kms, partly on a winding narrow cliff road to
Domme. Dave from Liverpool came with us,
upon reaching the top he gasped he needed an oxygen mask with his beer! We had beer and frites as we watched various
acts all of which were pretty average but at least the village was making an
effort! We were joined by Roger and Lynn
from Cheshire, new arrivals with their dog Jack.
Back to the camp bar (Dave’s groin had given
up by this time) also joined by Ian and Jan, a fun evening that carried on into
the ‘wee hours’!!
22.06
Up early as Dave is taking us to the
Market in Sarlat. A large market,
sprawling down the alleyways and more upmarket than a lot of markets we’ve
seen.
Selling everything from fruit and
veges, meat, charcuterie, cheese and truffles along with clothing and all types
of home ware! After coffee we went
exploring! A wonderful morning followed
by bacon, eggs and baked beans on toast back at camp in Dave’s caravan. Hit the spot!
‘Goodbyes’ again to Jan and Ian who
are heading home.
Chatted to David and Fabienne (Camp Proprietors), Caroline (Assistant) and Thierry (Mr Fix It), as well as fellow campers we’ve met whilst here. We caught up on the internet!
A surprise return visit from Karen and Graham (from Milton) in their 'Burstner Elegance', had a chat and a laugh!
Hiked 10kms through the pretty farmlands and walnut orchards, the winding road eventually leading up to the ‘Bastide’ Domme. It’s passed ‘sleepy time’ (12noon-2pm) and the little medieval village is buzzing! On our way back, we found the original stone pathway through the woods back up to Domme, we followed it out of curiosity to see where it had originated from. A picturesque walk above the Dordogne. A fun night with Davey and Shar.
25.06
Our sunny ‘pool day’ turned cloudy but
we stuck it out and enjoyed the pool.
26.06
Finally got our wheels rolling again
and departed camp, lots of goodbyes to be said and sad to be leaving. We’ve met some wonderful people here over the
last two weeks and hopefully we’ll meet up with them again next year. Only 50 odd kilometres to go to the cliff top
sanctuary of Rocamadour in the ‘Lot Department’. A great drive through canyons lined with oak
trees typical of South East part of the Lot region.
Rocamadour
is a dramatic sight with its houses
clamped to a vertical cliff side beneath the ramparts of a 14th century chateau.
The Vierge Noire (Black Madonna) which
is housed in the chapel drew a steady stream of pilgrims from across Europe in
the middle ages and still they come several centuries on.
We found a good spot in the ‘Aires’
and walked down the switchback staircase to the old town to the Sanctuaries, a
series of 12-14th century chapels.
We joined the millions (including the King
of France) who have climbed the 200+ stairs to the chapels although we did not
do it on our knees as they did. For some
reason one of the chapels had a selection of rugby jerseys hanging on the wall
including an All Black one! Maybe the
French pray there prior to World Cup matches.
Hiked up the cliff opposite Rocamadour
to take in the dramatic scenery and also try for a photo opportunity, but no
luck!! Got the lungs going though.
27.06
Long drive today (320kms) to the West
coast and Mimizan Plage.
We followed the ‘Lot’ River through
vineyards, passed farms and cherry tree orchards towards Agen then over the River Garonne. The last few hours were in the ‘Forest des
Landes de Gascogne’ pine forest - an easy and picturesque drive.
Through Mimizan to Mimizan Plage and an
‘Aires’ on the beach. There are about 40
campers in the ‘Aires’ (12 euros including electricity), a great spot for the
night! We strolled the boardwalk up the
sand hill to the beach. A long, white
sand, surf beach where kite surfers and surfers are taking advantage of the
wind and waves. We were here many years
ago but only have a vague recollection.
Noticed most were in wet suits so will have to check out water
temperature tomorrow. Back along the beach and through the ‘surfie’ little
town, lots of personality here!
28.06
We ran through the pine forest near the ‘Aires’ then travelled the 600 metres or so to our chosen camp, ‘Club Marina Landes’ (huge drive!!). A wonderful camp with all the ‘ bells and whistles’ including an indoor pool as well as an outdoor pool, restaurant and cafe, tennis, gym, mini golf, boulangerie/patisserie (for our bread and ‘pain au chocolat'), food market, karaoke and disco, the last two start on 8 July, unfortunately we won’t be here then!! 16 euros per night and goes up to 55 euros in the high season. We definitely won’t be here then!!
The camp is situated on the ‘ Landes
Pistes Cyclables’, an awesome network of asphalt bike paths that run through
the pine forests from Bordeaux to the Pyrenees.
The French cater so well to their population (and us) with their
facilities. We biked the path to the
small surfie beach town of Contis and back (32kms), hit the pool and then the
inside pool – bliss!
29.06
A morning run/walk through the forest
and then rode the bike path signposted to ‘Mimizan Bourg’ through the back
roads and woodlands to Mimizan Centre.
Took advantage of McDonalds free Wifi, did a shop and back to camp
(21kms).
The sun came out in the afternoon so
we hit the pool!
01.7
A great run through the pine forest following the shoreline, we spotted a deer! The pine forest is a ‘Reserve Biologique’, the dunes, animals and birds are protected. Up the sand hill board walk for a wonderful panorama of the beach. Kindles and a fun late afternoon body surf in the sea! More people on the beach today as it’s a beautiful day with no wind and the holiday makers are beginning to arrive.
02.07
Back to camp for a total ride of
57kms, too late to cook (says Pam) so off to the camp restaurant for Maigret
(grilled duck breast), frites, salad, beer and coffee (43euro).
Tempted to have dessert after seeing
some of the exotic creations delivered to the table next to us, however guilt
prevented us!!!
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