3 July
Left our camp and moving to a lower elevation as thunderstorms are threatening, a 180kms trip. Through pretty Murat-Le-Quaire and a scenic drive over the woody uplands and across the lush valleys. Into the Cantal Department and over the Dordogne River to Mauriac and camping ‘Val St-Jean' (17 euros). A great camp set in the woods between the Dordogne and Cantal mountains next to a swimming lake with beach and restaurant. The camp has a swimming pool, cafe/restaurant, golf course and walking tracks.
In the evening watched the footy on a large projector screen, England vs Belgium, very exciting!
4 July
A hike that took us around the camp to the beautiful lake, through the woods, around the golf course and over farmland, into Mauriac ‘centre ville’. Strolled the streets of this traditional small town officially listed as a ‘small town of character. The town was an important local centre in medieval times and later the Renaissance period. 
Interesting strolling the streets and alleyways with houses dating back to the
sixteenth - eighteenth centuries. The Square, with the twelfth century 'Basilica Notre-Dame-des Miracles' and further down, the superb eighteenth century Hôtel that is now the administrative centre.
Back to camp just in time to beat the rain and thunderstorm. Battened down the hatches!
5 July and 6 July
Up early for a walk/run around the lake before the rain set in. Enjoyed watching the footy: France vs Uruguay and Brazil vs Belgium.
7 July
Left our camp and heading north west towards Bordeaux to meet up with Ella and Sam! Through Chalvignac with it’s dark stoned church over the barrage L’Aigle and a steep but scenic drive through the gorge following the Dordogne. Into the Dordogne heading towards Tulle through La Corrièze Valley and small villages ringed by forested hilltops. We were last in the Dordogne in 2012, nice to be back!
Into the Vézère Valley situated in the south east and known
for it’s prehistoric cave drawings, through dense woods, corn and sunflower fields to Terrasson-Lavilledieu. At a glance a beautiful town, we had to stop! Followed ‘cryptic’ signs to an ‘Aires à La Ferme’ located near the centre of town and found a beaut spot to park, (9 euros with electricity). The farmer told us today was the last day of the three day ‘Fête’ and we shouldn’t miss the celebrations and concerts in and around town.
Early evening was cooler so went exploring. Over the Pont Vieux bridge and Le Vézère River up into the charming ‘Old Town’ dating back to the sixth century. The town is paved and cobbled and largely pedestrianised. Strolled the cobbled alleyways and climbed up to the Abbey with it’s ramparts.
Passed some characteristic alfresco eateries, art galleries, ‘Chateau of Joan of Arc’ to the six hectares ‘Imaginary Garden’ which tells the myths and history of the gardens. Went to one of the bars overlooking the river and enjoyed cold beers. On our way back to camp, listened to a live band in the park and enjoyed the fireworks display later on. Thought the celebrations were finished however one of the neighbouring houses decided to ‘party’, their ‘boom box’ boomed all night across the camp!
Left our camp and continued on the small back roads, a pretty drive following the ‘route de la noix’, walnut and cherry orchards, through Azerat and Thenon.
The walnut tree is a staple of the Dordogne landscape and forms a vital component of the local cuisine in oils, cakes, biscuits and liqeueurs as well as the production of walnut wood. The walnut is an emblem of Périgord. Continued into wooded valleys, lush fields with hay bales and small farmsteads crossing over the hills, passing hamlets each with their glorious church. There are a good selection of ‘aires’ camps along this route.
Strolled to the beautiful Roman Gothic church overlooking the river. Evidently Sourzac was amongst the first monastic settlements of Périgord. No trace of this abbey remained after the Normans passed through. The reconstruction of the church dates back to between 1070 and 1150. It was badly damaged during the Hundred Years’ War and rebuilt in the fifteenth century. Inside there is a plaque with names and ages of villagers. These were the villagers shot in 1944 by occupying forces in retaliation for an attack on a train by members of the Resistance.
Now 50kms from Bordeaux and the first of the ‘manicured vineyards’. The 123,000 hectare grape-growing area around the city of Bordeaux is the largest fine-wine-producing region in the world. Bordeaux is famous for it’s ‘great reds’ and dessert wines but also produces rosés, sweet and dry whites and even sparkling wines. There are more than 5000 chateaux, referring not to palatial residences but to the properties where the grapes are raised, picked, fermented and then matured as wine. Smaller chateaux sometimes accept ‘walk-ins’ but at many places you need to make a reservation. Many close during the ‘vendage’ (grape harvest) in October.
Caught the early bus into Bordeaux, a 50 minute ride (8.60 euros for 2, return). Crossed over the bridge and the Garonne and made our way to the ‘centre of town' and the Tourist Office where we planned to meet Ella and Sam.
Extra special to be back in this familiar city with it’s neoclassical architecture, high tech public transport system and pedestrianised boulevards.
10 July
Continued South making our way to St Jean-de-Luz on the west coast near Biarritz.
Continued through the sunflowers (still not in bloom), and vineyards over the Garonne to Langdon another beautiful ‘old town’ along the river.
Off exploring on bikes today! Had to be careful of trucks on the first part of our ride down to St Justin, a ‘bastide’ town established in 1280. Found the Tourist Office in the town’s characteristic square and wandered the cobbled streets. The town occupied a defensive position surrounded by a wall but was seized and plundered by the English and Protestants in the fourteenth and sixteenth centuries. Such personalities as Henry IV of France and Louis XIII of France came here because of it’s strategic position.
Biked up the small bike friendly cobbled street lined with eateries’, Armagnac dégustation caves (tasting) and shops and found a ‘saladarie still serving food. Had a big ‘super duper chicken salad’ and interesting to learn that most of the eateries stay open all day in the town to serve the thermal spa clients as well as the Portuguese workers who work in the vineyards.
Strolled the tranquil park with fish and turtle pond and marshes with stunning giant taro in flower.
Back onto the small roads and a stop near Mauvezin d'Armagnac at the ‘Notre Dame-des-Cyclists.
More hills to get the legs going, vineyards and distant chateaux to La Bastide d’Armagnac, a picturesque ‘bastide’ town established in 1291. In the sixteenth century France was ravaged by religious wars consequently the town became Protestant. It was then substantially damaged by the Catholics.
Walked the colourful square and cobbled streets with eateries and Armagnac dégustation shops.
50kms and back to camp early evening!
St-Jean de Luz is on the Atlantic Coast in the Basque region of France and just a few kilometres from the border of Spain. The town sits on the River Nivelle and is overlooked by the Pyrenees foothills.
Headed to our campsite which is in three separate parts stretching along Plage d’Erromardie and is 3kms from the centre of St-Jean de Luz. Reserved a great pitch with shade in the ‘third part’ of the camp, about 20m from the beach. Amazed at the number of people that remembered us on our arrival, our French neighbours from last year had reserved the same pitches and made us feel very welcome. We enjoy it here, there is ‘lots of action’ and great for improving our French.
7 July
Left our camp and heading north west towards Bordeaux to meet up with Ella and Sam! Through Chalvignac with it’s dark stoned church over the barrage L’Aigle and a steep but scenic drive through the gorge following the Dordogne. Into the Dordogne heading towards Tulle through La Corrièze Valley and small villages ringed by forested hilltops. We were last in the Dordogne in 2012, nice to be back!
Into the Vézère Valley situated in the south east and known for it’s prehistoric cave drawings, through dense woods, corn and sunflower fields to Terrasson-Lavilledieu. At a glance a beautiful town, we had to stop! Followed ‘cryptic’ signs to an ‘Aires à La Ferme’ located near the centre of town and found a beaut spot to park, (9 euros with electricity). The farmer told us today was the last day of the three day ‘Fête’ and we shouldn’t miss the celebrations and concerts in and around town.
Early evening was cooler so went exploring. Over the Pont Vieux bridge and Le Vézère River up into the charming ‘Old Town’ dating back to the sixth century. The town is paved and cobbled and largely pedestrianised. Strolled the cobbled alleyways and climbed up to the Abbey with it’s ramparts. 
Passed some characteristic alfresco eateries, art galleries, ‘Chateau of Joan of Arc’ to the six hectares ‘Imaginary Garden’ which tells the myths and history of the gardens. Went to one of the bars overlooking the river and enjoyed cold beers. On our way back to camp, listened to a live band in the park and enjoyed the fireworks display later on. Thought the celebrations were finished however one of the neighbouring houses decided to ‘party’, their ‘boom box’ boomed all night across the camp!
8 July
Left our camp and continued on the small back roads, a pretty drive following the ‘route de la noix’, walnut and cherry orchards, through Azerat and Thenon. The walnut tree is a staple of the Dordogne landscape and forms a vital component of the local cuisine in oils, cakes, biscuits and liqeueurs as well as the production of walnut wood. The walnut is an emblem of Périgord. Continued into wooded valleys, lush fields with hay bales and small farmsteads crossing over the hills, passing hamlets each with their glorious church. There are a good selection of ‘aires’ camps along this route.
Stopped at Sourzac-sur-L’Isle along the Isle River, a perfect spot for a picnic!
They included villagers from surrounding communities as well as Sourzac, 52 were shot!
Now 50kms from Bordeaux and the first of the ‘manicured vineyards’. The 123,000 hectare grape-growing area around the city of Bordeaux is the largest fine-wine-producing region in the world. Bordeaux is famous for it’s ‘great reds’ and dessert wines but also produces rosés, sweet and dry whites and even sparkling wines. There are more than 5000 chateaux, referring not to palatial residences but to the properties where the grapes are raised, picked, fermented and then matured as wine. Smaller chateaux sometimes accept ‘walk-ins’ but at many places you need to make a reservation. Many close during the ‘vendage’ (grape harvest) in October.
Continuing on the back roads through Villefranche-de-Longchat, the woods and small hamlets with red tiled roofs. Into the Department of the Gironde and Castillon de La Batailled, vineyards and wine chateaux with corn fields and woods through Puy du Prat on the Garonne River to Créon. Decided not to bike into Bordeaux as we did in 2012, in case a puncture delayed us and we risked missing Ella and Sam. Chose ‘Camping Bel-Air’ 2kms from Créon and on the bus route to the centre of Bordeaux. The camp has a swimming pool and restaurant (25 euros, ACSI is no longer applicable). Perfect to meet Ella and Sam tomorrow.
We ‘hit’ the pool!
9 July
Caught the early bus into Bordeaux, a 50 minute ride (8.60 euros for 2, return). Crossed over the bridge and the Garonne and made our way to the ‘centre of town' and the Tourist Office where we planned to meet Ella and Sam. Extra special to be back in this familiar city with it’s neoclassical architecture, high tech public transport system and pedestrianised boulevards.
A beautiful day spent chatting over a long ‘cruisey’ lunch in an alfresco restaurant. The Weiss beer hit the spot! Later on we tucked into large ice cream sundaes, the restaurant now open for it’s evening menu! Wonderful to catch up!
10 July
Through Créon and beautiful traditional ‘old towns’ including La Sauve, surrounded by vineyards with their wine châteaux. Then road deviations slowing us down and taking us in a circle. Finally got to 'Cadillac', even with it’s roadworks and more deviations, a gorgeous old town in the centre of the wine region.
A remembrance to Pam’s dad even though 'Cadillac' has nothing to do with restoring classic cars. This fortified town founded in 1280 by Jean de Grailly, representing the King of England, still retains it’s medieval structure.
Into the ‘Landes Department’ and the ‘Parc Naturel Régional Landes de Gascogne’ with it’s pine trees following the west coast inland on small back roads. Passing farm hamlets and corn fields to St Justin, 100kms from Bordeaux near Mont-de-Marsan and ‘Camping Le Pin’ (20 euros). A relaxing small family camp with pool and restaurant plus the added incentive, a big projector screen - Col is very happy!
This area is dominated by agriculture and vineyards and is also a centre of production of Armagnac produced from white grapes. The grapes are ripened in the sandy soils and aged in barrels of local black oak. Often drunk as a digestive, local restaurants also serve ‘Floc de Gascogne’ a liquor wine made from Armagnac and red or white grape juice which is the traditional aperitif.
Spent the remainder of the day in the pool!
Watched the footy in the evening, France vs Belgium. France won, very happy locals!
11 July
A day enjoying the sun and pool! Later on went for a walk.
Watched the footy in the evening, England vs Croatia.
12 July
Continued following small roads through the countryside, farmsteads and vineyards via Créon d’Armagnac, to Gabarret with it’s bull fighting ring. Thank goodness the bull fights here focus on the toreador entertaining without killing the bulls.
Followed the ‘voie verte’ which took us back onto the back roads and a lucky find, the thermal spa town of Barbotan-les-Thermes, famous for it’s natural water and vegetal mud.
Biked up the small bike friendly cobbled street lined with eateries’, Armagnac dégustation caves (tasting) and shops and found a ‘saladarie still serving food. Had a big ‘super duper chicken salad’ and interesting to learn that most of the eateries stay open all day in the town to serve the thermal spa clients as well as the Portuguese workers who work in the vineyards.
Strolled the tranquil park with fish and turtle pond and marshes with stunning giant taro in flower.
A cyclist museum located in a thirteenth century abbey set up by a monk in 1959.
Beautiful stained glass windows depicting various cyclist scenes and 850 cyclist shirts displayed, including the winners from the Tour de France. Fascinating and a clever monk!
More hills to get the legs going, vineyards and distant chateaux to La Bastide d’Armagnac, a picturesque ‘bastide’ town established in 1291. In the sixteenth century France was ravaged by religious wars consequently the town became Protestant. It was then substantially damaged by the Catholics. 
Walked the colourful square and cobbled streets with eateries and Armagnac dégustation shops.
50kms and back to camp early evening!
13 July
A day relaxing around the pool!
14 July Bastille Day (celebrating the storming of the Bastille on 14 July 1789)
Left our camp and travelled 70kms to St Paul-les-Dax and ‘Camping Les Pins du Soleil’ for an overnight stop on our way to St Jean-de-Luz. The camp is situated in the heart of the Landes not far from the Atlantic Ocean and on the edge of the Basque Country. It has a pool and restaurant and most of the pitches are sand based. Dax a few kilometres away, is a thermal spa town.
15 July
Into the Basque Country, 50kms from St Jean-de-Luz! Passing signs with familiar place names, ‘Capbreton/Hossegor, Bayonne, St Sebastián’, Basque culture, ‘La Course Landaise’ (toreador entertains without killing the bull - good!), ’Pelote Basque’ (played with a scoop like basket) and ‘La Fête’ (there are lots of different Basque Festivals). Through Ondres with it’s ‘Chemin de Compostelle signs’, skirting Bayonne, Biarritz and Bidart to St Jean-de-Luz. Fantastic to be back!
Headed to our campsite which is in three separate parts stretching along Plage d’Erromardie and is 3kms from the centre of St-Jean de Luz. Reserved a great pitch with shade in the ‘third part’ of the camp, about 20m from the beach. Amazed at the number of people that remembered us on our arrival, our French neighbours from last year had reserved the same pitches and made us feel very welcome. We enjoy it here, there is ‘lots of action’ and great for improving our French. 
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