21 June
Heading to the Massif Central today after and an amazing time in beautiful Burgundy, a favourite of ours! A pretty drive following the small road along the ‘Canal du Centre’, through little villages including Lègere-sur-Dheune and St Julien-sur-Dheune into rolling countryside, corn fields and farmers making hay bales and sunflowers not in bloom as yet. Via Lapalisse with it’s chateau, to Vichy where we’ve decided to make our overnight stop. Vichy is 55kms northeast of Clermont-Ferrand.
The Massif Central is one of the least known corners of France. Below ground hot volcanic springs bubble, while in the mountains streams join to form three of France’s great rivers: the Dordogne, the Allier and the Loire. The Massif Central and Auvergne region is reliant on agriculture and cattle farming. The region has two of France’s largest areas of protected landscape with two huge regional parks: the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne and it’s neighbour, the Parc Naturel Régional Livradois-Forez. Great for hiking, skiing and paragliding.
Crossed the Allier River, after a minor GPS ‘hick up’, to Camping La Croix St-Martin (13 euros). The camp is on the banks of the Allier River and within walking distance of the spa resort of Vichy.
22 June
Vichy looked so beautiful as we drove though, we’ve decided to stay longer. Vichy is renouned for it’s volcanic mineral waters since Napoleon III and his entourage sojourned here during the nineteenth century, and later infamous as the seat of Marshall Pétain’s collaborationist regime during WWII.
Strolled along the Allier River edged with scattered cafes and bars and through the glorious ‘Park à l’Anglaise’ into the city. Meandered the streets following our ‘numbered plan’ of the city. A beautiful, funky city with eclectic architecture - art deco, medieval, art nouveau and landscaped parks. There are thermal spas popular for their therapeutic waters; aristocrats flocked to these fashionable spas after the French Revolution. 
Stately streets named after countries depicting the country’s style in the architecture, ‘English houses’ built for Napoleon III’s ‘imperial guards, and chalets along the edge of ‘Park à l’Anglaise’ built to lodge visiting nobles. So much was built by Napoleon. 
Into the ‘old town’ where the magnificent art deco ‘Eglise Saint-Blaise’ church connected to the ‘Notre Dame-des-Malades’ stands high above the city. Fascinating interior featuring ‘funked up’ frescoes with a ‘sparkle’ effect and twentieth century stained glass. 
Lunch in the picturesque ‘Parc des Sources’ encircled by a wrought-iron-canopied colonnade overlooking the charming art deco Le Casino-Théâtre which is now an Opera House. 
Great shopping and alfresco eateries and bars along boulevards and lanes with neo-gothic L’Église Saint-Louis making a statement amongst the modern buildings. A very easy, laid back city to walk around helped by it’s one way car system and parks. Found a bar to watch the All Black vs France game tomorrow - we’re happy campers!
23 June
Enjoyed watching the All Blacks vs France game in a small alfresco bar sipping strong coffee. The French very graciously congratulated us on ‘Les Blacks’ win. Another explore of this beautiful city including another visit to ‘Saint Blaise’ church in the ‘old town’ where Pam enjoyed the stunning frescoes. Watched the racing boat Grand Prix as we walked back to camp along the Allier River.24 June
Left our small camp and headed 100kms to our next stop ‘Lac-sur-Chambon’ recommended by our mates, Keith and Jan. Through the Allier region and into the Puy de Dôme and rolling lush farming landscape surrounded by a dramatic backdrop of mountain ranges. Fields of corn, sunflowers yet to bloom, ripened wheat, cattle and farming hamlets. Commerce and apartment blocks as we skirted Clermont-Ferrand with it’s gothic church spires towering over the city, climbing over the ranges into the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans D’Auvergne. The Park occupies most of the western Massif Central. With it’s lush pastures and verdant hills it’s hard to believe that about twenty million years ago the Massif Central was one of the most volcanic areas in Western Europe.Through small dark stoned villages, up 1000 metres and we can see some snow caps on the mountain ranges. Onwards towards Murol, and a glimpse of Murol Château, to Lac Chambon and 'Camping Le Pré Bas' (17 euros) on the lake and at the foot of the Massif du Sancy. A well organised camp with good facilities, hedged pitches, swimming pools as well as a restaurant and grocery store down by the lake.
Went on a ‘recce’ down to the lake overlooked by some nice eateries, bars and accommodation. It’s Sunday and famillies are enjoying the lake, board walk and ‘play area’.
25 June and 26 June
Picturesque walks around the lake and swims in the camp pools - bliss! Sunny days and cooler evenings.
25 June and 26 June
Picturesque walks around the lake and swims in the camp pools - bliss! Sunny days and cooler evenings.
27 June
A great day biking via the characteristic village of Murol to St Nectaire. Took the ‘high road’ to St-Nectaire located in the picturesque Couze Chambon river valley. Wound our way up to the dark stoned twelfth century Roman church of St-Nectaire situated on a rocky pedestal overlooking the town. Continued climbing up into the hills to the top following the 'route du fromages' (cheese), for a magnificent panorama.
On our way down stopped at the beautiful church built by the monks in honour of St-Nectaire. At the foot of the church lies 'St-Nectaire-le-Bas' (low St-Nectaire), a spa town and the 'Maison du St-Nectaire' cheese.A climb back to Murol and up to the twelfth century ‘Chateau de Murol’, perched on a volcanic peak overlooking the town.
Stopped for a picnic lunch at Lake Chambon’s sandy eastern beach.
28 June
A pool, reading day and a lake walk!
29 June
We left Lac Chambon early morning after a fun time and had a super 19kms drive over the ‘Col de la Croix Morand’ 1401 metres where cyclists were enjoying a rest at the summit cafe. 
Through ‘Mont Dore’ for another 6kms to La Bourboule, ‘Camping Panormique’ (15 euros). The camp is certainly that, pool with bar and splendid views, as does our site. Quiet, good facilities and not many others.
Walked down into the valley to ‘La Bourboule’, a charming, belle époque village along the Dordogne River renounced for it's thermal spa. With the help of the Tourist Office, sorted some walks/hikes during our stay here. Exciting! 
Strolled ‘Fenestra Park’, a landscaped 12 hectare park created in 1874. Brightly flowered gardens, activities for kids, lovely picnic areas beside the Dordogne River and a ‘petit train’ to take you around the park.30 June
Hiked up into the hilly ranges starting at ‘Fenestra Park’ in La Bourboule. Followed the ‘La Roche Vendeix’ markers along the Dordogne River then a steep climb through the forest to the small hamlet of Vendeix-Haut. Another climb up to ‘La Roche Vendeix' summit, about 1200 metres. Evidently in the Middle Ages there was a fortress perched on this volcanic peak, ‘Le Château de la Roche Vendeix’. It was used as a refuge for the inhabitants of the small village built below.
A stunning view including La Bourboule and the Vallée du Ruisseau de Vendeix.
On our return, stopped for a picnic in ‘Fenestra Park’.
Coffee went down well back at camp.
1 July
A fantastic day up the mountain! Caught the bus from La Bourboule via the mountain village of Le Mont Dore to the Station Du Mont-Dore Sancy in the Mont-Dore Ranges, a half hour trip. This is the culminating point in the Massif Central, a stratovolcano, (several volcanoes overlapping each other). Caught the téléphérique up the mountain to the summit and a twenty minute hike up to the highest peak, 'Puy de Sancy', about 2000 metres. Magnificent, plunging views of the valleys in the National Nature Reserves of Chaudefour and Chastreix-Sancy. Feel like we're up in the clouds, stunning! 
Awesome hiking trails including the GR4 and GR30 taking you over the ridges and down through the valleys to small villages. Essentially this is a popular ski area and there are lots of chairlifts and ski runs catering to all levels up and down the mountains and to Le Mont Dore village. 
Followed the narrow winding shingle path down the 'Put de Sancy' and enjoyed hiking some of the trails. You can hike for miles! There are some patches of snow about and paraponters having fun.
At the end of the day we hiked down the mountain following the trail to the Station, our starting point, and the bus back to the camp.
2 July
A catch up, chores day! Chatted with our lovely French neighbours and met ‘Igloo’, a cutie of the fury kind. Swims in the terrace pool overlooking the ranges. Weather has been great, sunny days and no humidity. Off to the Cantal Department tomorrow.
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