Friday, June 9, 2017

The Atlantic Coast, The Gironde and South to Spain

29 May

A wet morning so ended up leaving camp once the rain had stopped in the early afternoon. Back over the Pont de Ré, heading to St Georges-de-Didonne about out two hours drive down the Atlantic coast.  Passed the Marais Poitevin region, farmlands and glimpses of the coast skirting La Rochelle and Rochefort and over the Charente Estuary viaduct.  Onward through fields of corn seedlings and vineyards with wine, cognac and pineau charente ‘dégustations’. 


Decided to stay overnight in a great 'aires' in Saujon about 20kms from St-Georges-de-Didonne as  it's getting late.  The 'aires' is opposite the River Seudre which runs through this charming old town.  Strolled through the town, quiet at this time of night and noted the fabulous bike paths following the river. 

30 May

Another pretty drive through the countryside, took a wrong turn and ended up on a ‘farmers road’ in with the farmers crops, onwards through the town of Médis, woods and the outskirts of Royan to St Georges-de-Didonne and our camp site, ‘Ideal Camping’.  (15 euros).   A family camp with swimming pool, market and restaurant.  Nice pitches with shade and good amenities.  Still pretty quiet at this time of year.  
Both St Georges-de-Didonne and Royan are seaside resorts situated at the mouth of the estuary of the Gironde.


Followed a great coastal cycle path along the beach at St Georges-de-Didonne and the promenade around the beach and harbour at Royan with it’s grand old villas in-between modern appartments and alfresco eateries.  



Around sand bays and small rocky coves some with fishermen’s nets, through the woods and small white washed beach resorts passed 

St-Palais-sur-Mer to the lighthouse ‘Phare deTerre-Négre.  



Some of the beach resorts are getting ready for the summer rush, ploughing the sand and setting up ‘fun arcades’ and carousels which are popular with the Brits.    





31 May

Explored St Georges-de-Didonne with it's charming church surrounded by alfresco eateries and Royan by bike!  We were trying to find the farmer’s field we free camped on in our ‘combie' as kids …… no joy although we think we had a vague idea.  Also looking for a bike repair shop 
to get some fluid for Col’s brakes, however after 25kms of looking, we decided to head back to St Georges-de-Didonne beach for a sandwich.   Watched the land yachtees and windsurfers having fun!   
1 June



A glorious day for relaxing!

In the evening we walked along the beach promenade to St Georges-de-Didonne 'centre ville'.




2 June

Heading south in the direction of Bordeaux to Roquefort on our way to Spain.  
A  picturesque drive following the Gironde estuary through vine-covered countryside, ‘Vin de pays Charente’, producing ‘Pineau des Charente', Cognac and Liquers.  Through Lorionac with it's 'Pineau des Charente' distillery and onto the ‘route de Vignoble’.  Passed an awesome monument of two large silver snails, we’re in ‘snail territory', ‘Charente escargots’ (Charente snails). Through small wine villages and wheat and corn.  Traffic congestion as we skirted Bordeaux and crossed ‘La Dordogne river’ and then ‘La Garrone’, which both originate from La Gironde. 

Passing many châteaux, referring not to palatial residents but to the properties where the grapes are grown, picked, fermented and then matured as wine.  Many close during the ‘vendage’, (grape harvest) in October.  You can buy directly from the owners. 

The GPS then took us through back roads and the woods to Villandraut and onto Roquefort. 
Our camp is about 10kms from Roquefort in the rural village of St Justin, ‘Camping Le Pin’.  (15 euros).  Good facilities and a pool which is currently not open.



3 June


Heavy rain today so we caught up with map planning and a went for a walk in the countryside during a light shower.

4 June

Heading to St-Jean Pied de Port, in the foothills of the Pyrenees and 8kms from Spain.  Last here when we were kids and looking forward to seeing the little village again.
Driving in the direction of Bayonne through woods, farmlands and rolling hills.  

A large scallop shell monument symbolises the ‘Pilgrims Route’ as we near the foothills of the Pyrenees.  Through St-Jean Marsacq and Hasparren passing groups of cyclists enjoying the ‘hilly challenge’.  It’s raining hard as we skirt Cambo-les-Bains following a scenic route of rocky hills and meadows into the valley alongside the River Nive. (D918).  The landscape is dotted with white farm houses selling cheese. 

Found the Municipal Camp right in the heart of St-Jean Pied de Port beside the River Nive.  (15 euros).
  





A quick orientation of this gorgeous walled town between showers.    







5 June

Awoke to a stunning day!  Into St-Jean and purchased our ‘Carnet De Pèglerin De St-Jacques’ (’Pilgrim’s Passport’) for the Santiago de Compostela walk. Got our first stamp (only another thirty-one to get for our Diploma) and headed into the Pyrenees on the first leg of the journey, crossing from France into Spain.  

Reached an elevation of one thousand metres and met many ‘pilgrims’ making their way on the 780 kilometre route to Santiago in western Spain.  For most people this will take over one month of walking 25kms per day.  It’s also possible to bike the same route.  

The scenery was amazing and the camaraderie between the ‘pilgrims’ very inspiring.
Had a picnic on a summit overlooking the mountains before descending.  





Back in town, climbed the Citadel for a great panorama!







6 June

Our camp is popular with the Camino pilgrims, both cyclists and walkers with their tiny tents.  Chatted to a few who had biked or walked to the camp from The Netherlands and Germany and were also continuing their journey around Spain after reaching Santiago de Compostela.  There are some amazing people here of all ages.  Jean is camped in a tent behind us, he walked from his home in Crest (France) and is beginning ‘the Camino walk’ with a friend tomorrow, hopefully the weather has cleared by then.  He gave us his tent. 

Late afternoon the rain stopped and we walked into town and climbed the ramparts around the Citadel.

Off to Spain tomorrow!




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