Spain - Navarre Pamplona; La Rioja Haro; Cantabria Picos de Europa

7 June and 8 June

A perfect day for our route through the Pyrenees into Spain and onto Pamplona, a very picturesque drive, passing lots of cyclists - what a joyful ride!  Stunning day, quiet road, beautiful scenery and a gradual climb with rest stops.  Catching glimpses of the ‘Camino pilgrims’ in the woods where the path runs parallel with the road.  Pamplona is 66kms away.  Stopped at 1050 metres for a great panorama of the valley.  Through the ‘pilgrim stop’ of Roncesvalles and small villages spotting the ‘pilgrims’ making their way along their panoramic pathways. 

Our camp, ‘Camping Ezcaba’ is positioned on the pilgrimage route and is 10kms from Pamplona (19 euros).   There is a bike path near the camp. 

Biked into Pamplona on both days we were there.  The first day we left later in the afternoon. Took the bike path following the river Arga through parks, sunflower fields (unfortunately not in flower as yet), along a narrow mountain bike track, passed the old Paper Mills in Velluva Batan and over the La Magdalena bridge to the city walls and the old part of the city.  

Pamplona is the capital of the Navarre region and is well known for the fiesta of Sanfermines (Bull Run in July) and the Pilgrims Way.   

Strolled through the old medieval city with it’s great architecture, streets  lined with various eateries and bars.  Excellent food - many varieties of tapas (pinchos), paella, lamb, prosciutto and chorizo. Of course bull meat is the specialty during Sanfermines.  

Continued to the Plaza del Castillo, the beautiful square at the heart of the city surrounded by terraced cafes.  Had a very tasty paella on one of the main ‘eateries street’, Estafeta and drank coffee in front of the Town Hall with it’s wonderful Baroque architecture.  Onward to the Plaza del Torres where we went for a very interesting tour of the Bullring and pens.  (5 euros each).  

Strolled along the streets where the runners and bulls challenge each other, the route of the Bull Run (Sanfermines) which attracts thousands from all over the world between the sixth and fourteenth of July every year.  The bulls are held in San Domingo street and are let out at 8am in the morning each day to run about 2kms through the streets including Estafeta Street into the Bullring.  Brave (or stupid) revellers throw themselves in front of the bulls and attempt to run with them!  Unfortunately for the bulls once the run is ended they then end up in the Arena and face the Toreadors.  

Walked the old city walls to one of the large parks, La Vuelta del Castillo linked to the old Citadel.

Took a wrong turn on the first day and didn’t arrive back at camp until 9pm.  The second day was a much faster trip back, just in time to beat the thunder storm!

9 June

Travelled in the direction of Logroño following the 'Camino
trail'.  Through plains dotted with yellow broom and scattered villages.  Into the La Rioja region with it’s landscapes and colours, valleys and mountains and passing a sea of vineyards and ‘bodegas’ (wineries).  Took a road off the ‘Camino trail’ through vege patches to the town of Haro, the wine capital of La Rioja, situated on the Ebro river.

Arrived at Camp De Haro which is within walking distance of the town and has a swimming pool and bar/restaurant.  (19 euros).

Evidently today is a holiday and everything is closed so we’ve decided to visit Haro tomorrow when there is more ‘action’.  By 6pm the camp has been inundated with campers, tents and lots of Spanish families who partied into the night.  Had a great three course meal at the camp restaurant, salad, roast chook, fruit and a bottle of local wine, only 22 euros for two!

10 June

Walked along the Ebro river passed the winery quarter to the lovely old town and the busiest bar district ‘La Herradura’.  It includes a square lined with restaurants and Santo Tomás street with tapas bars and eateries up to the church square and Church of Santo Tomás. 

Strolled passed the wine tasting shops to the bullring.  

Returned to camp to find Lefty surrounded by tents and people having fun!  

Spent the afternoon around the pool as it’s thirty degrees.  

11 June

Biked through the gorgeous poppies and found the Municipal Park and the start of a beautiful 40kms bike circuit following the Ebro river.

Through the vineyards and up the steep slopes into medieval
towns including Briones and San Vicente de La Sonsierra.  Had a very tasty tapas lunch including potato tortillas in San Vincente (11 euros).  

Adjusting to the Spanish eating hours, restaurants/eateries open at 12noon-4pm and reopen at 8pm-9pm in the evening.  

A steep climb up to San Vincente castle and admired the views. 
In the evening, another tasty tapas dinner in 'La Herradura' in the town square, including drinks, black pudding, chorizo and stuffed pimentos (30 euros).

12 June

Travelled through the plains skirting Brugos, 140kms to Castrojeriz and our camp, ‘Camping Castrojeriz’.  (17 euros).  

The town is overlooked by a Templars’ Castle and is on the ‘Camino pilgrims trail’. Met a lovely couple from Essex, Colin and Rosie who are camped next to us in their Adria camper.

Explored the old town with it’s eatery-lined ‘Camino path' through the town centre and accommodation for the ‘pilgrims’.  Climbed up to the castle for a stunning panorama over the plains. 

13 June

We headed north,150kms to the Picos de Europa mountain range.  Plains, villages including Cervera de Pisuerga, forests, wheat and  potato farmlands into the foothills!  A very scenic drive, through Vânes and into the gorge and a panorama stop at 1350 metres.  Picnicked at Venta Pipen near a small eateries/drink stop.  It’s now raining and don’t envy the groups of cyclists passing us on the steep, winding road.  Most of them are English!  

Through Viedo and Ojedo into the Picos National Park to Potes and ‘Camping La Viorna’ overlooked by the Picos peaks.  (17 euros).  The camp is 1km from the town centre has a swimming pool, market and restaurant.  

Explored the old town, and although the centre is geared up for tourists it's managed to retain it’s charm.

14 June

A steep but very picturesque hike through the foothills overlooked by the Picos.  Passed a group of ‘pilgrims’ and the Valmayor Sancturary.  Picnicked at the highest point with great views over the town.  

Back at camp, threw ourselves into the pool where hats are compulsory.  We looked like two gnomes! 

A three course dinner in the evening - seafood paella, roast lamb, chocolate desert with coffee not to mention the bottle of wine that was included in the menu for 26 euros for two.  
Hard to believe they can do it so cheaply.  A lovely setting and a perfect night!

15 June

A blobby day - bliss!  

Met Kiwis, Kyle and Haidee and their two children in their new Adria camper that they are transporting home to Tauranga!!  A beautiful van... Had a fun evening with them.

16 June

Headed through the Picos in the direction of Oviedo, 88kms to the coast to Ribadesella.  'Lefty' dodging the overhanging cliffs on the narrow windy road through the Rio Diva (River) valley.  

To the coast and following a coastal road and part of the ‘Camino trail’ where we caught glimpses of the Atlantic.  By passed Llanes to Ribadesella and ‘Camping Ribadesella’ situated on the cliff tops above the town.  

(19 euros).  It has a swimming pool as well as heated pool, market and restaurant/bar.  Ribadesella forms part of the Picos de Europa and is hometown to Queen Letizia of Spain.

The camp is filling up for the weekend!  Off to explore tomorrow!