Europe 2018 France-Massif Central: Vichy, Lac Chambon, La Bourboule, Mt Dore

21 June

Heading to the Massif Central today after and an amazing time in beautiful Burgundy, a favourite of ours!  A pretty drive following the small road along the ‘Canal du Centre’, through little villages including Lègere-sur-Dheune and St Julien-sur-Dheune into rolling countryside, corn fields and farmers making hay bales and sunflowers not in bloom as yet.  Via Lapalisse with it’s chateau, to Vichy where we’ve decided to make our overnight stop.  Vichy is 55kms northeast of Clermont-Ferrand. 

The Massif Central is one of the least known corners of France.  Below ground hot volcanic springs bubble, while in the mountains streams join to form three of France’s great rivers: the Dordogne, the Allier and the Loire.  The Massif Central and Auvergne region is reliant on agriculture and cattle farming.  The region has two of France’s largest areas of protected landscape with two huge regional parks:  the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne and it’s neighbour, the Parc Naturel Régional Livradois-Forez.  Great for hiking, skiing and paragliding.

Crossed the Allier River, after a minor GPS ‘hick up’, to Camping La Croix St-Martin (13 euros).  The camp is on the banks of the Allier River and within walking distance of the spa resort of Vichy. 

22 June

Vichy looked so beautiful as we drove though, we’ve decided to stay longer.  Vichy is renouned for it’s volcanic mineral waters since Napoleon III and his entourage sojourned here during the nineteenth century, and later infamous as the seat of Marshall Pétain’s collaborationist regime during WWII. 

Strolled along the Allier River edged with scattered cafes and bars and through the glorious ‘Park à l’Anglaise’ into the city.  Meandered the streets following our ‘numbered plan’ of the city.   A beautiful, funky city with eclectic architecture - art deco, medieval, art nouveau and landscaped parks.  There are thermal spas popular for their therapeutic waters;  aristocrats flocked to these fashionable spas after the French Revolution.   

Stately streets named after countries depicting the country’s style in the architecture, ‘English houses’ built for Napoleon III’s ‘imperial guards, and chalets along the edge of ‘Park à l’Anglaise’ built to lodge visiting nobles.  So much was built by Napoleon.  

Into the ‘old town’ where the magnificent art deco ‘Eglise Saint-Blaise’ church connected to the ‘Notre Dame-des-Malades’ stands high above the city.  Fascinating interior featuring ‘funked up’ frescoes with a ‘sparkle’ effect and twentieth century stained glass.   

Lunch in the picturesque ‘Parc des Sources’  encircled by a wrought-iron-canopied colonnade overlooking the charming art deco Le Casino-Théâtre which is now an Opera House.     

Great shopping and alfresco eateries and bars along boulevards and lanes with neo-gothic L’Église Saint-Louis making a statement amongst the modern buildings.  A very easy, laid back city to walk around helped by it’s one way car system and parks.  Found a bar to watch the All Black vs France game tomorrow - we’re happy campers!

23 June

Enjoyed watching the All Blacks vs France game in a small alfresco bar sipping strong coffee.  The French very graciously congratulated us on ‘Les Blacks’ win.  Another explore of this beautiful city including another visit to ‘Saint Blaise’ church in the ‘old town’ where Pam enjoyed the stunning frescoes.  Watched the racing boat Grand Prix as we walked back to camp along the Allier River.

24 June

Left our small camp and headed 100kms to our next stop ‘Lac-sur-Chambon’ recommended by our mates, Keith and Jan.  Through the Allier region and into the Puy de Dôme and rolling lush farming landscape surrounded by a dramatic backdrop of mountain ranges.  Fields of corn, sunflowers yet to bloom, ripened wheat, cattle and farming hamlets.  Commerce and apartment blocks as we skirted Clermont-Ferrand with it’s gothic church spires towering over the city, climbing over the ranges into the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans D’Auvergne.  The Park occupies most of the western Massif Central.  With it’s lush pastures and verdant hills it’s hard to believe that about twenty million years ago the Massif Central was one of the most volcanic areas in Western Europe.
Through small dark stoned villages, up 1000 metres and we can see some snow caps on the mountain ranges.  Onwards towards Murol, and a glimpse of Murol Château, to Lac Chambon and 'Camping Le Pré Bas' (17 euros) on the lake and at the foot of the Massif du Sancy.  A well organised camp with good facilities, hedged pitches, swimming pools as well as a restaurant and grocery store down by the lake.

Went on a ‘recce’ down to the lake overlooked by some nice eateries, bars and accommodation.  It’s Sunday and famillies are enjoying the lake, board walk and ‘play area’.




25 June and 26 June

Picturesque walks around the lake and swims in the camp pools - bliss!  Sunny days and cooler evenings.

27 June

A great day biking via the characteristic village of Murol to St Nectaire.  Took the ‘high road’ to St-Nectaire located in the picturesque Couze Chambon river valley.  Wound our way up to the dark stoned twelfth century Roman church of St-Nectaire situated on a rocky pedestal overlooking the town.  Continued climbing up into the hills to the top following the 'route du fromages' (cheese), for a magnificent panorama.
  

On our way down stopped at the beautiful church built by the monks in honour of St-Nectaire.  At the foot of the church lies 'St-Nectaire-le-Bas' (low St-Nectaire), a spa town and the 'Maison du St-Nectaire' cheese.

A climb back to Murol and up to the twelfth century ‘Chateau de Murol’, perched on a volcanic peak overlooking the town. 

Stopped for a picnic lunch at Lake Chambon’s sandy eastern beach.

28 June

A pool, reading day and a lake walk!  

29 June

We left Lac Chambon early  morning after a fun time and had a super 19kms drive over the ‘Col de la Croix Morand’ 1401 metres where cyclists were enjoying a rest at the summit cafe. 

Through ‘Mont Dore’ for another 6kms to La Bourboule, ‘Camping Panormique’ (15 euros).  The camp is certainly that, pool with bar and splendid views, as does our site.  Quiet, good facilities and not many others.

Walked down into the valley to ‘La Bourboule’, a charming, belle époque village along the Dordogne River renounced for it's thermal spa.  With the help of the Tourist Office, sorted some walks/hikes during our stay here.  Exciting!  

Strolled ‘Fenestra Park’, a landscaped 12 hectare park created in 1874.  Brightly flowered gardens, activities for kids, lovely picnic areas beside the Dordogne River and a ‘petit train’ to take you around the park.

30 June

Hiked up into the hilly ranges starting at ‘Fenestra Park’ in La Bourboule.  Followed the ‘La Roche Vendeix’ markers along the Dordogne River then a steep climb through the forest to the small hamlet of Vendeix-Haut.  Another climb up to ‘La Roche Vendeix' summit, about 1200 metres.  Evidently in the Middle Ages there was a fortress perched on this volcanic peak, ‘Le Château de la Roche Vendeix’.  It was used as a refuge for the inhabitants of the small village built below. 

A stunning view including La Bourboule and the Vallée du Ruisseau de Vendeix.

On our return, stopped for a picnic in ‘Fenestra Park’.

Coffee went down well back at camp.

1 July

A fantastic day up the mountain!  Caught the bus from La Bourboule via the mountain village of Le Mont Dore to the Station Du Mont-Dore Sancy in the Mont-Dore Ranges, a half hour trip.  This is the culminating point in the Massif Central, a stratovolcano, (several volcanoes overlapping each other).  Caught the téléphérique up the mountain to the summit and a twenty minute hike up to the highest peak, 'Puy de Sancy', about 2000 metres.  Magnificent, plunging views of the valleys in the National Nature Reserves of Chaudefour and Chastreix-Sancy.  Feel like we're up in the clouds, stunning!  

Awesome hiking trails including the GR4 and GR30 taking you over the ridges and down through the valleys to small villages.  Essentially this is a popular ski area and there are lots of chairlifts and ski runs catering to all levels up and down the mountains and to Le Mont Dore village.  

Followed the narrow winding shingle path down the 'Put de Sancy' and enjoyed hiking some of the trails.  You can hike for miles!  

There are some patches of snow about and paraponters having fun.

At the end of the day we hiked down the mountain following the trail to the Station, our starting point, and the bus back to the camp.

2 July

A catch up, chores day!  Chatted with our lovely French neighbours and met ‘Igloo’,  a cutie of the fury kind.  Swims in the terrace pool overlooking the ranges.  Weather has been great, sunny days and no humidity.   



Off to the Cantal Department tomorrow.

Europe 2018 The Burgundy Canal - Continued, Côte d'Or

10 June - The Burgundy Canal - Pouilley-en-Auxois - continued 

Awoke to a beaut day after a heavy thunder storm last night!  A very pretty bike ride through the woods initially following the path above the canal tunnel.  Pass the canal boats and old traditional homes converted into ‘Gîtes’ and ‘Bed and Breakfast’ accommodation, over the bridge and through the little stone town of Vandenesse-en-Auxois.  Our first stunning silhouette of the the fortified village of Chateauneuf-en-Auxois and Château de Châteauneuf high on a rocky spur in the distance.  It still stands guard over the road from Dijon to Autun.  During the Hundred Year War, towers and curtain walls were built to defend the village and the Auxois plains.       

Into the countryside and a steep climb winding through pastureland up to the medieval village and Château which is on the ‘Most Beautiful Villages In France’ List.  

Strolled the cobbled streets with their quaint houses, beautiful rose climbers and little eateries overlooked by the picturesque château.  A great view of the Vandenesse Valley.

Back down to Vandenesse-en-Auxois to the cute ‘Salon du Thé’ where the lovely owner made us salad and ham rolls,

along with 'pains au chocolat'!  Enjoyed a picnic along the canal.

11 June

A good travelling day, showery with fine spells!  Headed 50kms south on pretty country roads following the Burgundy Canal.  Through rolling farmlands and small hamlets, passed fields of sweet peas and wheat edged with wild poppies, into ‘vineyard country’ to Nuits-St-Georges.  Continued to Premeaux Prissy and ‘Camping du Moulin de Prissey’
(17 euros), 5kms from Nuits-St-Georges and in a great location for exploring.  Nuits-St-Georges is in the heart of the vineyards and is the capital of the Côte de Nuits - also known as the ‘Champs-Élysées of the Côte d’Or.

The wines of Burgundy are regarded as being among the best in the world.  From the twelfth century onwards, the wine trade took off in the eighteenth century when commercial warehouses were established in Beaune, Nuits-St-Georges and Dijon.  The ‘vignerons’ (wine growers) generally have small vineyards partly because the land is incredibly valuable, but largely because the Napoleonic Code requires the inheritance rights be equally shared among children.  Burgundy does not produce blends.  Made almost exclusively with pinot noir (red and white wines) - ‘the aristocrat of grapes’ - the wines are aged for ten and twenty years before bottling.

Burgundy uses a pyramid system to to classify wines.  At the top are the ‘grand cru’ wines, identified by the name of the vineyard only.  They include Cotton, Cotton Charlemagne, Montrachet and Vougeot.  Next come the ‘premier cru’ wines, first labelled with the name of the village and then with the name of the vineyard.  They include Beaune-Grièves and Pommard-Rugiens.  On the bottom tier are the 'appellations communal’ or village wines which are only named by their village.  They include Beaune and Sauvigny-les-Beaune.  We shall be sampling a few!

12 June

A glorious day biking via St Nuits-St-Georges, through little wine villages and beautiful vineyards of the Côte d’Or to the magnificent Château du Clos de Vougeot set in amongst the vines.

Around 1110 the monks of Cîteaux Abbey established a domain equipped with buildings for wine making which were enclosed by a two mile long wall.  The central courtyard was formed in 1551 and so the Cistercian wine-farm became the Château Du Clos De Vougeot. 

The Château no longer owns any vines or makes wine to sell, but it remains a symbol of almost one thousand years of Burgundy’s history. 

It has a cellar stacked with bottles awaiting tasting by the famous ‘Confrérie des Chevalliers du Tastevin’.   

A fascinating informative tour, also enjoyed the video at the end.

From here we biked another couple of kms to the little village of ‘Gilly-Les-Citeaux’ to the medieval moated ‘Château de Gilly’.  A Cistercian residence, once the home of the abbots of Citeaux and now  a beautiful hotel.  Lovely alfresco eatery and manicured gardens with exquisite sculptures.  36kms and we drinking coffee back at camp.

13 June

The strong wind kept us reading our kindles in ‘Lefty’ - bliss! 

14 June

A picturesque cycling day following the ‘Côte des Grands Crus’!  A climb winding through pretty wine producing villages, including Villers-la-Faye and Magny-lès Villers, then a steep climb into ‘the sea of green’ and a beautiful vista of vineyards.  

Down into the heart of the vineyards passing workers and machinery attending the vines.  The grapes will not be ready until November when they’re harvested.  

Weaved our way through the vines and the little grape growing village of Savigny-lès-Beaune with it’s small chateau, into Beaune and great memories from our 2012 visit.

Beaune is the unofficial capital of the Côte d’Or, it exists for wine - making it, selling it and most of all, drinking it!
  
The cellars under the city comprise millions of bottles of some of the best wines in existence.

Strolled the buzzy little town and around the ramparts,  through the cobbled streets lined with dégustation (wine tasting) caves/châteaux, alfresco eateries and shops, into the old city with its ‘Hôtel-Dieu’, a medieval charity hospice.

It was used as a hospital until 1971 and is famously known for it’s stunning turrets and pitched rooftops covered in multicoloured tiles.  Had lunch in one of the little parks then made our way to the train station to check out trains to Dijon.  Plan to do a train trip in the next few days from here.  Took an alternative route home via Corgoloin, total 40kms.

15 June

Left our little camp and headed through the woods, hay bales and black current paddocks, 40kms to St-Jean-de Losne.  We’re catching up with Kiwi friends who store their canal boat here.  St-Jean-de-Losne is 25kms from Dijon and located at the crossroads of waterways along the Saône River which serves as the main river channel for the Burgundy Canal to the Rhône and from 

St-Symphorien-sur-Saône to the Rhine in Germany.  The Port of St-Jean-de-Losne is a popular hub for pleasure boats that ply it’s waters.  It is the biggest boat hire base on the Saône River as well as specialising in boat sales, boat repairs, rigging and storage services.  

Found ‘Camping Les Herlequins’ after our GPS tried to take us down a very narrow tow path on the opposite side of the Saône River(11 euros).  The camp is cost effective with good facilities and in a nice location on the Saône only five minutes walk from town. 

Strolled along the river, lined with lively little cafes and restaurants, to the marina where we found Graham and Marie on their very elegant canal boat.  Fantastic to see them!

Evidently their are 35 Kiwi canal boats moored here, so there will be a great turn out to watch the All Black vs France game tomorrow.  We’re all meeting tomorrow morning at the ‘Brassière du Port’ along the River.  

Had a fun evening with Graham and Marie at the funky little Sicilian Restaurant with tables outside on the cobbled lane. 

16 June  

Headed to ‘Brassière du Port’ and watched All Blacks vs France game with other Kiwis armed with strong black coffee.  A nice bunch of people!  

Strolled the town then headed back to camp along the river.  Today is ‘bless the boat’ day and a fair has been set up to celebrate.  There will also be fireworks tonight. 

Late afternoon, back to Graham and Marie’s canal boat for a fab evening on their deck, serenaded by frogs.  Lots of laughs and delicious caramel eclairs with coffee to top it off!  

Watched a fabulous fireworks display over the river as we headed back to camp.

17 June

After coffee at ‘Chez Lefty’ with Graham and Marie, we headed 40kms back to Beaune and 'Municipal Camping Les Cent Vignes' (16 euros), 15 minutes walk from town and close to the vineyards.  Plan to go to Dijon from here as well as more exploring.  Had a tasty duck remoska dinner under the stars!

18 June

Instead of catching the train to Dijon, we walked into Beaune as there is a rail strike today!  

Found ‘Le Tavola Calda' Italian Restaurant and enjoyed a leisurely pizza lunch in pretty surroundings.

Headed to ‘L’Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune’ for an audio tour as
we’ve never been inside the Hospital on previous visits.
This hospital, ‘a palace for the poor’, was established in 1443 by Nicholas Rolin, chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy, and his wife.  Both were devoted  to this wonderful construction, in which the finest materials were used to ensure it’s continued existence - an amazing heartfelt story.  Our audios included their lives as well as ‘everyday life in the hospital’, the eighteenth century pharmacy where nuns made their own medicines, kitchens and medicinal foods and the brilliant Polyptych of the ‘Last Judgement’ by the Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden.  This masterpiece was created in the fifteenth century. 

The Hospital classified as a historic monument in 1862, has maintained its original principles: charity and care combined until 1971, and continues today in the new hospital.  Legacies and gifts have also allowed for the creation of a remarkable vineyard where it’s famous ‘Wine Auction’ enables the ‘Hospices de Beaune’ to finance it’s investments in the hospital upgrading and maintenance of it’s cultural heritage.  
A very interesting and fascinating three hour tour!    

19 June   

A stunning bike ride following the ‘Route des Grands Crus’ in the heart of the vineyards, hilly in parts as it runs along the slopes.  In amongst the workers and machinery tending the vines.  

Passing through quaint little wine villages with their prestigious wines, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay.  

An exquisite terrain with its patchwork of immaculate hand-groomed vines dotted with stone villages where every house seems to hold a vintner.  

We joined up with the ‘Canal du Centre’ with it’s colourful canal boats and hire boats and followed it to Chagny then watched the lock system work as boats passed through.  At one stage a ‘South African’ and a ‘Polish’ boat were in the lock together.  As the water rose, a funny thing happened, the Poles ‘hit’ their music system to ‘full bore’ and began flicking the ropes and gyrating to the music - looked hilarious!  They were having fun!  The South Africans seemed bemused and told us they would not be mooring anywhere near the Poles, haha!  

A magical 63km bike ride.

20 June

Caught the train from Beaune to Dijon, a twenty minute ride!   Ten minutes from the station we were walking down the main boulevard to the Tourist Office and picked up ‘The Owl’s Trail’ with it’s 22 stages.  Followed the trail starting in the 'Darcy Garden’ and meandered the streets taking in this beautiful city filled with elegant medieval and Renaissance buildings including the fourteenth century Palace of the Great Dukes of Burgundy.  

The building now houses the Town Hall and the Fine Arts Museum (Musée des Beaux Arts).  Philip The Bold, the first of the four Great Dukes of Burgundy received the duchy as a privilege in 1364 and Burgundy became a ‘kingdom’ within a century.  On the death of Charles The Bold, the last of the Great Dukes, Louis XI hurried to join Burgundy to the kingdom of France.  

The city is wonderful to stroll around, it is pedestrian and bike friendly, there are no cars!  A highly organised transport system with trams primarily on the outskirts of the city and electric buses inside. 

Lots of little alfresco eateries and narrow cobbled lanes.

After a nice lunch in the shade at the boulangerie, we completed ‘the trail’ and then visited the Musée des Beaux Arts.  

A magnificent museum featuring art from the Middle Ages and Renaissance from the fifth century to the sixteenth including the tombs of the Great Dukes of Burgundy.  Pam is in her element!  Some of the paintings reminded us of the Greek icons painted in bright oils and parts covered with metal.  

Caught the early evening train back to Beaune after a fabulous day!

Heading to the Massif Central tomorrow.