27 June - 28 August
From San Sebastián we travelled to St-Jean de Luz on the Atlantic Coast in the Basque region of France and just a few kilometres from the border of Spain. The town sits on the River Nivelle and is overlooked by the Pyrenees foothills.
Headed to our campsite which is in three separate parts stretching along Plage d’Erromardie and is 3kms from the centre of St-Jean de Luz.
Found a great pitch in the ‘third part’ of the camp, about 20m from the beach and in the centre of ‘all the action’ which will be great for improving our French. Our friends also live here and we’re looking forward to seeing them!
Two months later and I’ve had a break from the blog
What an amazing two months! Lots of hiking, biking, swimming, beaching and blobbing. It’s been great for our fitness, our French and our ‘Joie de Vivre’!
Our friends have been wonderful hosts, Thierry and Jacqueline have made it extra special. Thierry has been our guide into the Pyrenees, Spain and around St-Jean de Luz environs.
Met some amazing people and have enjoyed Bastille fireworks, parties, BBQ's, orchestra evening, and soirees at the cafe's overlooking Erromardie Beach.
Beautiful sunsets and a friendly vibe
Explored St-Jean de Luz and it’s long beach, its narrow streets, markets, fishing port and restaurants specialising in sardines, tuna and anchovies.
Near the end of the nineteenth century St-Jean de Luz became a popular seaside resort town for the surrounding high society and was particularly appreciated by the French and Spanish Aristocracy.
Ciboure is next door, on the western curve of the bay of St-Jean de Luz separated by the fishing harbour and Ascain is not too far away.
Ciboure is next door, on the western curve of the bay of St-Jean de Luz separated by the fishing harbour and Ascain is not too far away.
Biked to the sea resorts of Guéthary, Bidart (here when we were kids in our ‘VW’)
... and the big surf at Biarritz with it’s ‘Rocher de la Vierge’.
... and the big surf at Biarritz with it’s ‘Rocher de la Vierge’.
Our Pyrenees hikes have
included the ‘Col des troix-Croix’ from Ainhoa with it’s Seventeenth Century brightly coloured Basque houses followed by a great lunch afterwards in the ‘witch village’ of Zugarramurdi in Spain.
Great to have Thierry's friend Didier join the three of us.
Drove ‘La Corniche’ the coastal road, to Hondarribia, another beautiful Basque town in the Gipuzkoa region of Spain to the Baie du Figuier where we began a very picturesque coastal walk starting at ‘La Phare’ (the lighthouse).
Lunch back in France in the Baie de Txingudy in Hendaye on the Spanish border.
Lunch in Errenteria, another town in Spain, and a boat ride across the harbour to San Juan.
Took the scenic coastal walk to the light house.
A drive through the Pyrenees to Lusaka in the Bortziriak region of Spain where we enjoyed a ‘set menu lunch’.
We love it here and are looking forward to returning next year.
29 August
After lots of ‘Au Revoirs' and ‘à l’année prochaine’ to the camp and to Gregory at his roadside fruit stall, we hit the road! In the very familiar Côte d’Argent region and Côtes des Landes heading north to an ‘Aires’ somewhere north of Bordeaux. Through farms, cornfields and long stretches of pine forests in the Lande des Gascogne park reserve.
The ‘bottleneck’ we struck around Bordeaux was made up for by the very scenic ‘route des vins’ on the other side. Charming wine villages and rows of bright green vineyards manicured into hedges with their Chateaux where the grapes are picked, fermented and matured as wine. The smaller châteaux sometime accept walk-in visitors, but at many places you have to make an advanced reservation.
Found an ‘Aires’ with eight camper sights in the little wine village of St. Paul about 7 kms from Blaye on the east side of the Gironde Estuary.
30 August
A picturesque drive on small roads following the Gironde Estuary through the vineyards and characteristic wine villages including Blaye and St Martin Lacaussade with their dégustation (tasting) and buying opportunities. Fabulous biking around this area.
Up to Royan following the route ‘vin du grenoble’, vineyards, cultivated wheat and fields of sunflowers passed their best and waiting to be harvested for oil.
Crossed the bridge overlooking Fort Louvois and onto Île d’Oléron located between the mouth of the Charente River and the Atlantic Ocean. It’s the largest island off the French Coast with the exception of Corsica. Oléron’s economy is primarily based on oyster farming and salt and it’s vineyards spreading over 800 hectares. The main grape is white used to make cognac, also other varieties are grown, sauvignon, colombard, cabernet and merlot. Pineau des Charentes and Rosé are produced here and the white wine especially,
goes well with oysters! Bring on the oysters!
Travelled 30 kms up the island to St Denis-d’Oléron and Camping Les Seulières (17 euros) The camp is opposite the beach in farmlands and has great cycling opportunities. Found a neat pitch opposite a paddock alongside a small river with an abundance of bird life and a Ragonda family.
Strolled across the road for a walk along the beach.
31 August
A beautiful day biking around the Island. Followed the bike route along the west coast beaches through forests, vineyards and cute villages including the fishing port town of La Cotinière, the major fishing port of Charente-Maritime. After strolling the Quay here, we looked around the oyster sheds and fish markets, great varieties of fresh fish and shellfish, so fresh that the crabs and prawns were still moving. Sea-bass, langoustines, sole and flat fish.
Took the bike route over to the east coast and Le Château d’Oléron at the southern end of the Island and wandered the Citadel. The fortress was modified and enlarged in the fifteenth century, and Fort Louvois was constructed, canons from the two sites made it impossible for enemy ships to pass through the channel and threaten Rochefort.
Biked around the colourful oyster port where many of the former oyster huts have been restored and act as workshops for artists and craftsmen.
Along ‘the route des huitres’ (oyster route) and through the oyster farms with their colourful huts and oyster beds.
We ‘slurped’ oysters on the terrace of one of the huts overlooking the villages and washed them down with a glass of white wine! Absolutely divine!
Continued through the marshlands, vineyards, farmlands and villages including St Pierre d’Orléon and St-Georges d’Oléron back to camp. 60kms.
A fantastic day!
1 September
Woke to rain which eventually cleared and had a catch up day! Enjoyed coffee watching the ragondas at work amongst the swans.
2 September
Another stunning day! Biked up the west coast following the beach to the Phare de Chassiron (Lighthouse) then crossed over to the east coast and through the cute village of Saint-Denis d’Oléron.
Followed the bike path south along the east coast for a scenic route through the Forêt des Saumonards. Before heading to the sailing Port of Boyardville we headed to Plage de Boyardville (beach) where we discovered a beautiful golden sandy beach with clear blue water. Sat in the dunes enjoying our picnic lunch with the sunbathing nudists.
Over the bridge through Boyardville, inland through the marshes abundant with birdlife, small villages, market gardens, orchards and vineyards via Saint-Pierre d’Oléron, the biggest city of the Island, and Saint-Georges d’Oléron back to camp. 60kms and a wonderful day!
3 September
Picked blackberries in the farmers paddock in-between showers. Have decided to move to a camp further south on the western coast to explore the end of the Island.
4 September
Arrived at ‘Camping Le Sous Bois’ in the countryside next to the fishing village of La Continière which we visited briefly on our first bike ride around the Island. (17 euros). Strolled into the village to ‘sus’ out the fish markets, lots to choose from and evidently there will be more variety tomorrow when the big catches come in after the weekend (from Tuesday onwards). Bought some anchovies and made a marinade based on Thierry’s ‘secret’ recipe. Into the fridge they went!
5 September
A wet day! After filleting and sampling the anchovies decided we need a lot more ‘perfecting’ to meet Thierry’s high standards! They were still raw and needed more vinegar.
6 September
A great day for a bike ride! Took the bike route south following the west coast beaches then inland to ‘Le Petit Village’ with it’s salt marshes and colourful oyster sheds, now cafés, overlooking the water.
Continued along the marshes through the oyster villages and farmer’s fields to Dolus d’Oléron and then onto the coast to Continière where we bought anchovies and fish fresh from the market. Back to camp, 35kms. Enjoyed our ‘apero’ of anchovies in an oriental marinade, not as good as Thierry’s, and cooked sole, a specialty of the Island.
Heading to the Loire Valley tomorrow.
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