France..The Loire-Atlantique...Nantes and the Loire

11 September

Left the Vendée and travelled 82 kms up the Atlantic Coast via Challans, through farmlands and into the Loire-Atlantique region with it’s vineyards.  Took the ‘Route Touristique Des Vignobles Nantaise’ to Camping de Chêne (17 euros), perfectly located on the ‘Loire à vélo’ cycleway, a section of the great ‘Eurovelo 6’, an 800 kms European cycle route and only 17 kms from Nantes.  Bruno and his very kind family run the camp through to the end of October.  

Nantes is situated on the banks of the Loire, 55 kms east of the Atlantic.  It is a thriving student and cultural hub and is France’s sixth largest metropolis and growing with one in two Nantais today aged under 40.  It is the birth place of Jules Verne.

12 September  

It’s Pamo’s birthday - yipeeeee!!  Woke to a perfect birthday with coffee and ‘pain au chocolats’, then a great ride along the cycleway following the beautiful Loire into Nantes for lunch. 

The cycleway took us over the bridge to Quai Ferdinand-Favre where we found ‘The Lieu Unique Restaurant’ inside the former LU Biscuit Factory crowned by a replica of its original tower. 

In 2000, the old factory was converted into ‘a polished concrete floored industrial-chic space for dance and theatre performances, eclectic and electronic music, philosophical sessions and contemporary art exhibitions as well as the restaurant and bar.  We sat on the terrace outside overlooking the canal St. Felix and had a wonderful lunch of oysters, then ‘canard magret (duck) with the local muscadet wine and finished with coffee. Enjoyed the quirky student vibe!  

Went exploring ‘made easy’ by following a ‘green line’ through the city, dominated by the medieval ‘Château des Ducs de Bretagne’, the last castle before the Loire River reaches the sea and a duchy residence built between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries.  

Continued our journey through the city's quarters, each with it’s own attractions and vibe, including:

Le Jardine des Plantes - the botanical gardens with more than 10,000 living species,

The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre and Saint Paul Gothic Cathedral - construction spread over 457 years,

Le Passage Pommeraye - nineteenth century, the most beautiful covered shopping arcade in Europe,

Le Mémorial de L’Abolition de L’Esclavage - 2000 commémorative plaques as a reminder of every slave ship that left Nantes.

The ‘cité of ducs’ has Middle Ages characteristics with it’s narrow streets and timber framed houses blending in with today’s shops, bars and restaurants.  Followed the ‘green line’ off the shopping streets into a ‘stylish part of town’ with it’s eighteenth and nineteenth century urban planning, pedestrianised squares with terrace tables, chic boutiques and the Théâtre Graslin.  Noted the great transport system here with trams and trains operating throughout the city.  

Our journey continued through the streets, the markets, passed the retro cafes, the museums and art galleries, brightly coloured houses, old style bars and patio tables and some great eating places.  A funky quirky student town! 

Onto the ‘Île de Nantes’, encircled by two stretches of the Loire, once contained industrial soap waste, boat building and maritime businesses, today it has been transformed into a cultural area of modern architecture and design.  We enjoyed ‘Les Machines de L’Île', where mechanical animals and bizarre carousels take both children and adults for rides.  

After a fascinating 17 kms, we were back at the LU Biscuit Factory.  

The sun was setting as we biked back to camp along the Loire where we enjoyed a cold beer at the camp bar/restaurant (34 kms round trip).  A fabulous birthday!

13 September

A ‘cruisey’ day!  Strolled around the camp lake which has a ‘fitness trail’.  Popular with runners and fisherman.

14 September 

Biked along the Loire back into Nantes to stroll the ‘Château des Ducs' grounds.  Had a good view of the city from it’s ramparts and enjoyed the ‘Water Mirror’ opposite, a two centimetre deep layer of water reflecting back the castle!  

Decided to head to the River Erdre, following the ‘green line’ part of the way through the fun fair.  The River Erdre is a tributary of the Loire that passes through town via the Saint-Felix tunnel.  There are house boats and a funky ‘Bateaux Lavoir Restaurant’ moored to it’s banks.

Ate a tasty rice lunch at a little ‘Reunion Café’ down one of the cobblestone alleyways on our way back to the LU Biscuit Factory and our parked bikes.  34 kms. 

15 September

Strolled the camp lake when the rain cleared in the afternoon!

16 September

A ‘catch up day for chores’!  Raining cats and dogs!

17 September

As we’re in the vicinity thought we’d take the opportunity to see Clisson with it’s amazing architecture and ‘Tuscany feel’. Travelled 30kms into the valley of the Loire, the heart of the vineyards of Nantes and the ‘capital of the Muscadet’ and Camping du Moulin (17.60 euros). The camp has great picnic and BBQ areas as well as self service food and drinks machine.

Clisson is situated on the banks of the River Sèvre and the river Moine which converge in the town.  Muscadet wine is produced here and it’s also know to fans of heavy metal because of the annual music festival held here.

Found the pathway through the woods at the back of the camp and strolled into the ‘centre ville’ and went exploring.  The thirteenth century Chateau de Clisson dominates the town centre and overlooks the Sèvre river.  It still looks magnificent as there is an impressive amount of the  castle still remaining.

Admired the beautiful river setting and bridges from it’s ramparts, the Italian influence of the town below with it’s red tiled roofs and decorative eaves.    

Strolled the narrow streets and enjoyed the ambience of this pretty town.  

In the evening we enjoyed our chicken cooked over the camp charcoal BBQ!  ‘Rugging up' as the evenings are getting chilly now, but lovely fine, crisp sunny days!  

Back to the coast tomorrow.