The Dordogne Continued The Atlantic Coast Post # 6

14.06

As well as Cro-Magnum Man settling here, the Dordogne region is known for it’s rolling countryside and historic Bastides (fortified castles).  An absolutely beautiful region, can’t make up our minds which is more beautiful, the Loire or the Dordogne region.   Did a recce through the back roads, river and the valley with the village of Domme and it’s castle set high above us.  We’ve met some great people here including Gwen and Chris from Shropshire, Ian and Jan from Hayling Island and Phillip and his Dad from York.   

15.06 

A brisk 10kms walk/run along the Dordogne to the little village of Ceynac and up the winding narrow road to the Domme bastide.  We walked through the medieval village to ‘La Belevdere’ (view point) for a panorama of the Dordogne valley way below.  Domme was founded by Philippe of France in 1281 as a Bastion against the English.

In the afternoon we biked through the back roads and farmlands with their crops of wheat, corn, asparagus and potatoes via Ceynac, over one of the many bridges crossing the Dordogne to the village of La Roque Gageac with it’s buildings crammed into the cliff face above the Dordogne.  We walked the meandering lanes and up the steps through the village to the fort, for a stunning view of the Dordogne with it’s many kayakers taking advantage of the spectacular scenery.     

We continued our ride though the countryside, up the steep narrow road to Chateau Castelnaud, about 5kms from La Roque.  We walked through this pretty medieval village up to the castle for a spectacular panorama right across the Dordogne Valley with the Chateau de Beynac and Chateau des Milandes in the distance. 

We found a ‘Shopi’ in Ceynac and loaded our backpacks with supplies before heading back to camp – 30kms.  We invited the ‘crew’ we’ve met for pre dinner drinks and BYO dinner – fabulous, fun evening which carried on into the ‘wee hours’!!

16.06

 

A beautiful day spent around the pool – bliss!!  We decided to move ‘Lefty’ onto the banks of the Dordogne for a ‘million dollar’ view with it’s kayakers, swans, ducks and ‘frog orchestra’.  Wonderful!!

We had a healthy dinner! (pizza, frites and beer) at the camp Restaurant (31 euros).  David and Fabienne are the Camp Proprietors, a fun couple who offer a fantastic service, nothing is a problem here!!  We chatted (great practice for our French) and to complete the evening, David presented us with what he called ‘a patchwork surprise’ – an assortment of liqueurs for tasting!      

 17.06

Lefty’s door has been getting harder and harder to shut due to a misalignment with the framework.  David (our camp Proprietor) introduced us to  the camps ‘Mr fix it,’ Thierry, who made a few adjustments added some screws and ‘voila’ we can now close our door.  A bottle of Terry’s favourite wine is on order as he wouldn’t take any payment.  In saying this, we continue to appreciate the kindness and generosity of the French people, a fun loving people who have lots of energy and who are always keen to try out something new. 

We met Graham and Karen (from Milton) who invited us to look inside their Burstner ‘Elegance’ which is up for sale.  Very nice!!

We biked to Chateau de Beynac, looming atop a limestone bluff 5km northwest of La Roque. A pretty ride winding through the countryside up to the Chateau.  We walked to the outlook for a spectacular panoramic view above the Dordogne.  The Chateau’s position made it a key defensive position during the Hundred Years War.  Apart from a brief stint here by Richard the Lion heart, Beynac remained loyal to France placing it at odds with the English stronghold of nearby Castelnaud.  In the evening, a cider with Dave, a character from Liverpool.

We battened down the hatches as the rain has hit!
 

18.06 

After expecting a storm, we woke to an overcast but warm day with sporadic sun!   

Good opportunity for a catch up day!

19.06

The storm has finally  hit and it’s windy and wet!  A relaxing kindle day!  ‘Goodbyes’ to Chris and Gwen, hope to catch them again further South.  Dave took us for a big grocery shop near Sarlat in his Navara wagon. Had a laugh when he purchased a 27 Euro bottle of wine thinking it was 2.70.  The check out girl was not as amused as we were!!
 

 

20.06

Hiked 10kms along the small farm back roads of walnut trees, fields of corn and wheat, passed the kayak/canoe hire, rural campsites and charming old farmhouses into the surrounding countryside.  Domme looms in the distance.

21.06

 

Today is ‘Music Festival Day’ all over France.  It’s an opportunity for all musicians in France, professional and amateur to show off their talent.  Today is also Arlette’s birthday!  A bike ride through the woods and up the winding hillside to the village of Grolejac where we found the ‘voie verte’ bike route along the Dodogne following an old railway track through villages and woods to Carsac and on to Sarlat-la-Caneda. 

Walked along the main street exploring the charming twisting alleyways and back streets with their cafes and little restaurants.  Up the stairs to the Cathedral built in the 1100’s and down to  the Square with its ‘bronze canards’ (ducks), this is a region of ‘Foie Gras (duck liver pate).  We can see why more movies have been shot here than anywhere else in France, besides Nice and Paris!  Leaving the town centre Pamo stopped at a ‘velo’ outlet where the ‘tres gentils’ proprietor gave her bike a full service – gratuite!  (free of charge)  32 kms and back to Camp.

 Later in the evening we took advantage of the Music Festival and hiked the 8 kms, partly on a winding narrow cliff road to Domme.  Dave from Liverpool came with us, upon reaching the top he gasped he needed an oxygen mask with his beer!  We had beer and frites as we watched various acts all of which were pretty average but at least the village was making an effort!  We were joined by Roger and Lynn from Cheshire, new arrivals with their dog Jack.

 

 Back to the camp bar (Dave’s groin had given up by this time) also joined by Ian and Jan, a fun evening that carried on into the ‘wee hours’!!  

22.06   

Up early as Dave is taking us to the Market in Sarlat.  A large market, sprawling down the alleyways and more upmarket than a lot of markets we’ve seen. 

 

Selling everything from fruit and veges, meat, charcuterie, cheese and truffles along with clothing and all types of home ware!  After coffee we went exploring!  A wonderful morning followed by bacon, eggs and baked beans on toast back at camp in Dave’s caravan.  Hit the spot!

‘Goodbyes’ again to Jan and Ian who are heading home.

 

 

 23.06
Chatted to David and Fabienne (Camp Proprietors), Caroline (Assistant) and Thierry (Mr Fix It), as well as fellow campers we’ve met whilst here.  We caught up on the internet!

 24.06

 A surprise return visit from Karen and Graham (from Milton) in their 'Burstner Elegance', had a chat and a laugh!
Hiked 10kms through the pretty farmlands and walnut orchards, the winding road eventually leading up to the ‘Bastide’ Domme.  It’s passed ‘sleepy time’ (12noon-2pm) and the little medieval village is buzzing!  On our way back, we found the original stone pathway through the woods back up to Domme, we followed it out of curiosity to see where it had originated from.  A  picturesque walk above the Dordogne.  A fun night with Davey and Shar.

25.06

Our sunny ‘pool day’ turned cloudy but we stuck it out and enjoyed the pool.

26.06

Finally got our wheels rolling again and departed camp, lots of goodbyes to be said and sad to be leaving.  We’ve met some wonderful people here over the last two weeks and hopefully we’ll meet up with them again next year.  Only 50 odd kilometres to go to the cliff top sanctuary of Rocamadour in the ‘Lot Department’.  A great drive through canyons lined with oak trees typical of South East part of the Lot region. 

Rocamadour is a dramatic sight with its  houses clamped to a vertical cliff side beneath the ramparts of a 14th century chateau.

The Vierge Noire (Black Madonna) which is housed in the chapel drew a steady stream of pilgrims from across Europe in the middle ages and still they come several centuries on.

We found a good spot in the ‘Aires’ and walked down the switchback staircase to the old town to the Sanctuaries, a series of 12-14th century chapels.

 

 We joined the millions (including the King of France) who have climbed the 200+ stairs to the chapels although we did not do it on our knees as they did.  For some reason one of the chapels had a selection of rugby jerseys hanging on the wall including an All Black one!  Maybe the French pray there prior to World Cup matches.

Hiked up the cliff opposite Rocamadour to take in the dramatic scenery and also try for a photo opportunity, but no luck!!  Got the lungs going though.

27.06

Long drive today (320kms) to the West coast and Mimizan Plage.

We followed the ‘Lot’ River through vineyards, passed farms and cherry tree orchards  towards Agen then over the River Garonne.  The last few hours were in the ‘Forest des Landes de Gascogne’ pine forest - an easy and picturesque drive.

 

Through Mimizan to Mimizan Plage and an ‘Aires’ on the beach.  There are about 40 campers in the ‘Aires’ (12 euros including electricity), a great spot for the night!  We strolled the boardwalk up the sand hill to the beach.  A long, white sand, surf beach where kite surfers and  surfers are taking advantage of the wind and waves.  We were here many years ago but only have a vague recollection.  Noticed most were in wet suits so will have to check out water temperature tomorrow. Back along the beach and through the ‘surfie’ little town, lots of personality here!

28.06

We ran through the pine forest near the ‘Aires’ then travelled the 600 metres or so to our chosen camp, ‘Club Marina Landes’ (huge drive!!).  A wonderful camp with all the ‘ bells and whistles’ including an indoor pool as well as an outdoor pool, restaurant and cafe, tennis, gym, mini golf, boulangerie/patisserie (for our bread and ‘pain au chocolat'), food market, karaoke and disco, the last two start on 8 July, unfortunately we won’t be here then!!  16 euros per night and goes up to 55 euros in the high season. We definitely won’t be here then!!

The camp is situated on the ‘ Landes Pistes Cyclables’, an awesome network of asphalt bike paths that run through the pine forests from Bordeaux to the Pyrenees.  The French cater so well to their population (and us) with their facilities.  We biked the path to the small surfie beach town of Contis and back (32kms), hit the pool and then the inside pool – bliss!

29.06

A morning run/walk through the forest and then rode the bike path signposted to ‘Mimizan Bourg’ through the back roads and woodlands to Mimizan Centre.  Took advantage of McDonalds free Wifi, did a shop and back to camp (21kms). 

The sun came out in the afternoon so we hit the pool!

 

30.6  Had a pool day!

01.7

A great run through the pine forest following the shoreline, we spotted a deer!  The pine forest is a ‘Reserve Biologique’, the dunes, animals and birds are protected.  Up the sand hill board walk for a wonderful panorama of the beach.  Kindles and a fun late afternoon body surf in the sea!   More people on the beach today as it’s a beautiful day with no wind and the holiday makers are beginning to arrive.     

02.07

 

Started the day nice and quietly reading our books in the shade.  In the afternoon we decided to ride along the bike path south via Contis to ‘Lot et Mix’, to check out our next campsite (14 euros).  The ACSI card lasts for another week there before it goes up and then only to 20 euros.  A fantastic ride through the pine forest with a little undulation to make it fun.  Camp checked out well and we continued onto the beach at ‘Cap de L’Homy-Plage’.

Back to camp for a total ride of 57kms, too late to cook (says Pam) so off to the camp restaurant for Maigret (grilled duck breast), frites, salad, beer and coffee (43euro).

Tempted to have dessert after seeing some of the exotic creations delivered to the table next to us, however guilt prevented us!!!