The Atlantic Coast continued Post # 7

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                                                                The Route so far!

03.07

 

A great opportunity to catch up on the internet as it’s raining!  The camp sells one day’s internet for 8 euros, the longer you have internet the more cost effective the rate becomes.  We’ve found a lot of camps offer Wifi free of charge.  We met our Swiss neighbours when disaster struck in the evening!!  Our ‘beloved’ Remoska tripped the breakers causing us all to lose power!  As soon as we cleared a blocked steam vent we were all good to go.  Phew!     

04.07

A great start to the day with a run/brisk walk passed the ‘Aires’ camp through the Pine Forest.  The number of camper vans have doubled in the ‘Aires’ since we were there a week ago.  This is the region of ‘Les Landes’, a vast semi wilderness of pine forests and lakes criss-crossed with excellent cycling and walking trails.  But for most people the reason to visit Les Landes is it’s beautiful beaches, above all else, this is surf country!!  We biked the 17kms on the bike path through the woods to Mimizan and on to McDonalds Wifi to send the emails written on the iphone – all good!  We also found an SFR outlet, SFR is the teleco that provided our mobile SIM card which we’d bought from a tabac.  Recharge cards are sold at most tabacs and newsagents.  Interesting to note that if  you do initially purchase a SIM card from a tabac you need to send identification to the provider (teleco) within two week or the SIM card is de-activated.  Better to purchase directly from the teleco and supply identification and you’re then ready to rock!

As we forgot to do this the SFR people said they would do their best to re-activate our SIM card.  In the afternoon we hit the beach and the waves, great fun!

5.07

 

Today is our last day at Mimizan Plage and ‘Club Marina Landes’ Camp.  We biked into Mimizan to the SFR outlet with the required ID.  They were unable to re-activate and therefore very kindly gave us another SIM free of charge.  We purchased one month’s credit of 15 euros.  Back to camp via the small Mimizan Market (primarily produce and wine). We hit the beach and body surfed, a beautiful day!  Late afternoon we walked into Mimizan Plage’s  surfie little village with it’s square lined with funky bars and cafes.  We had a beer and enjoyed the sun and the atmos!

6.07 

Onward to our next camp 50 kms from Mimizan Plage at ‘Lit et Mixe’.  We’re sad to be leaving but unfortunately the ACSI runs out today so we’re moving further along the coast to another camp where the ACSI lasts for another week.   We travelled through the pine forests, and the beach town of St-Julien-en-Born to ‘Camp Le Soleil des Landes’ (14 euros until 14 July).  The camp is about 7kms from the coast, it’s primarily a mobile home camp (very popular in France).  It’s situated on 24 acres, has a couple of pools, restaurant and cafe and is nicely situated for biking.  The camp provides a free ‘navette’ service (small bus) running daily to and from the beach.  We found a great site and then headed to ‘Super U’ for a big stock up. The weather has come right and it's hot – 30 degrees!  We hit the pool! 

In the evening we walked into the relaxed little village of ‘Lit et Mixe’.  Good atmosphere and enough restaurants and cafes to cater to the campers who are the main clientele.   

7.07  
 

Walked into the village via the market then back to camp and the pool.  Late afternoon we followed one of the paths through the pine forest to find a running route. We found a nice track which led to the newly finished beach bike path. Tonight there's a disco till midnight catering to the teens – the camp staff know all the dance moves and the kids love it!   Must go and get Col back before it gets too late!!  Last I saw he was leading the ‘Gangnam’  Hmmmm !!

8.07
 

It’s about 35 degrees today, a beautiful day spent around the pool.

In the evening we were entertained by a French band called Echo!  Particularly like their acoustic music but also great dance music!

 

9.07

 

We biked 40 kms South through the Pine Forest to St Girons Plage.  A small oasis in the sand dunes surrounded by huge camps in the pine forests.  A main street lined with cafes, restaurants and beach houses leading to the surf beach.   A great day with a picnic lunch in the forest. Pamo forgot her bikini, her cunning plan to get a new one failed! A magician entertained in the evening, he was slightly less noisy than the band and the disco!

10.07

We said ‘goodbyes’ to Norman and Margaret from Blackpool and their huge Hobby van towing their Smart Car – a great set up!  Norman took pity on Pamo and her navigational skills and presented her with a huge scale Map of Europe.  No excuses now!!

It’s about 38 degrees so we decided to shift to a more shady site (3rd time).  Into the village for internet which you can pick up near most Tourist Offices.   A pool and kindle day!

Booked a camp for the first two weeks of August on the beach at St. Jean-de-Luz near the Spanish Border in Basque Country.  We will meet up with Thierry and Jacqueline who we met in New Zealand in 2011 and also Pene’s boyfriend’s brother, Jeff who lives in Biarritz.

 

11.07 

We met Gary and Vicki from Norfolk, who lived in Wellington for 7 years and are now in Main Beach, Oz.  They came over for drinks in the evening and we were still going strong at 1 am.  It doesn’t get dark until around 11pm but when it does you have to be mindful of the ‘Kamikaze’ bugs on steroids when you are near the lights!  They are huge but harmless!!

12.07

 

Invited for an aperitif by our new French neighbours Jean Jacques and Marie Therese from Pau.  Their camper is even older than Lefty!

 

13.07

Gary and Vicki joined us for coffee and ‘pain au chocolat’ before they left for Bordeaux.  Late afternoon we took the bike path to ‘Cap de l’Homy Plage’.  A beautiful beach with gentler waves to body surf in.  Back though the forest and continued on the bike path into the village and explored the back roads.  We were looking for the ‘ la ferme’ campsite where a Dutch camper we keep bumping into mentioned he was staying.  No luck however a good ride through the cornfields, a contrast to the pine forest.  25kms and back to camp.

14.07   Bastille Day

We’re getting into a daily routine of swimming, biking, walking, learning French and meeting some great people!  Summer is here in full force and shade is essential.

We ran/walked briskly through the pine forests, it’s nice and cool, the sun is not out as yet.  A few people out today with the same idea as us!  Late afternoon we biked to ‘Cap de l’Homy Plage’ for a swim.  The usual nightly entertainment until midnight along with a Led Zep cover band from the neighbouring camp!!  A whole lotta shakin going on!!

 

15.07

Jean-Jacques and Maithe departed this morning.  Edited our photos and the blog.  We treated ourselves to an anchovy pizza and beer each in the local pizzeria.

 

16.07

We set off on a long bike ride today, destination Moliets, with it’s reputation for being one of the prettiest beaches in the area with ‘sand that sparkles like diamonds and as soft as feathers’!

We rode the bike path to Leon with it’s ‘Etang’(pond) and campsite which we thought ordinary.  The lake water was muddy as it’s more of an estuary and the camp was overpriced.  A great ride none the less finally arriving at yet another ‘surf town’.

Moliets was indeed pretty and the beach fantastic and yes the sand was soft but not unlike all the others we have seen. The entire coastline of this area is unspoilt and beautiful.

Longing for a swim but decided to have a walk, a quick banana sandwich and start homewards as it's getting late.  Back on the bikes to Cap de l'Homy beach for the long awaited swim. We're feeling the effects of the 90k ride and are glad to dismount and soak in the water.  Back to camp, too tired to cook so Pizza and beers again!!!  One anchovy, one chorizo sausage!  Hit the spot
 

17.07

Domestic duties today with a  clothes wash and tidy up of Lefty.

Fixed a minor problem with the toilet flush!  Disconnected the hose to the bathroom and sucked like mad, removing a large backup of silt!  A long gargle and all good!  I’m certain I don’t need the teeth that have since started falling out!!

In the evening we invited a French family from Paris over for an aperitif.  We had a fun few hours with Rene, Corinne, Justine and Guillaume who then invited us to their mobile home for dinner.  Melon to start, shredded carrots in a vinaigrette, then pork with ratatouille, a cheese board and finally chocolate ice creams on a stick!  Back to Lefty at 1.30am.

 
18.07

Internet day!  In the evening we had a large market/fair arrive in the village so we had a wander around the stalls selling clothes, jewellery, candyfloss, toffee apples to name a few.  There was even a small roller coaster and dodgem cars!

19.07

We had planned to bike to Mimizan Plage but the day got away after skyping and visitors (Steve and Lorraine from Wales now living in France).  We bumped into Rene and Corinne who suggested dinner tonight! So a wonderful night eating Moules Frites (all you could eat mussels and chips) with Rene, Corinne and their two children Guillaume and Justine. After dinner we took the children to the fair for pony rides, dodgems and disco.

 

 

 

 

 

             

      

The Dordogne Continued The Atlantic Coast Post # 6

14.06

As well as Cro-Magnum Man settling here, the Dordogne region is known for it’s rolling countryside and historic Bastides (fortified castles).  An absolutely beautiful region, can’t make up our minds which is more beautiful, the Loire or the Dordogne region.   Did a recce through the back roads, river and the valley with the village of Domme and it’s castle set high above us.  We’ve met some great people here including Gwen and Chris from Shropshire, Ian and Jan from Hayling Island and Phillip and his Dad from York.   

15.06 

A brisk 10kms walk/run along the Dordogne to the little village of Ceynac and up the winding narrow road to the Domme bastide.  We walked through the medieval village to ‘La Belevdere’ (view point) for a panorama of the Dordogne valley way below.  Domme was founded by Philippe of France in 1281 as a Bastion against the English.

In the afternoon we biked through the back roads and farmlands with their crops of wheat, corn, asparagus and potatoes via Ceynac, over one of the many bridges crossing the Dordogne to the village of La Roque Gageac with it’s buildings crammed into the cliff face above the Dordogne.  We walked the meandering lanes and up the steps through the village to the fort, for a stunning view of the Dordogne with it’s many kayakers taking advantage of the spectacular scenery.     

We continued our ride though the countryside, up the steep narrow road to Chateau Castelnaud, about 5kms from La Roque.  We walked through this pretty medieval village up to the castle for a spectacular panorama right across the Dordogne Valley with the Chateau de Beynac and Chateau des Milandes in the distance. 

We found a ‘Shopi’ in Ceynac and loaded our backpacks with supplies before heading back to camp – 30kms.  We invited the ‘crew’ we’ve met for pre dinner drinks and BYO dinner – fabulous, fun evening which carried on into the ‘wee hours’!!

16.06

 

A beautiful day spent around the pool – bliss!!  We decided to move ‘Lefty’ onto the banks of the Dordogne for a ‘million dollar’ view with it’s kayakers, swans, ducks and ‘frog orchestra’.  Wonderful!!

We had a healthy dinner! (pizza, frites and beer) at the camp Restaurant (31 euros).  David and Fabienne are the Camp Proprietors, a fun couple who offer a fantastic service, nothing is a problem here!!  We chatted (great practice for our French) and to complete the evening, David presented us with what he called ‘a patchwork surprise’ – an assortment of liqueurs for tasting!      

 17.06

Lefty’s door has been getting harder and harder to shut due to a misalignment with the framework.  David (our camp Proprietor) introduced us to  the camps ‘Mr fix it,’ Thierry, who made a few adjustments added some screws and ‘voila’ we can now close our door.  A bottle of Terry’s favourite wine is on order as he wouldn’t take any payment.  In saying this, we continue to appreciate the kindness and generosity of the French people, a fun loving people who have lots of energy and who are always keen to try out something new. 

We met Graham and Karen (from Milton) who invited us to look inside their Burstner ‘Elegance’ which is up for sale.  Very nice!!

We biked to Chateau de Beynac, looming atop a limestone bluff 5km northwest of La Roque. A pretty ride winding through the countryside up to the Chateau.  We walked to the outlook for a spectacular panoramic view above the Dordogne.  The Chateau’s position made it a key defensive position during the Hundred Years War.  Apart from a brief stint here by Richard the Lion heart, Beynac remained loyal to France placing it at odds with the English stronghold of nearby Castelnaud.  In the evening, a cider with Dave, a character from Liverpool.

We battened down the hatches as the rain has hit!
 

18.06 

After expecting a storm, we woke to an overcast but warm day with sporadic sun!   

Good opportunity for a catch up day!

19.06

The storm has finally  hit and it’s windy and wet!  A relaxing kindle day!  ‘Goodbyes’ to Chris and Gwen, hope to catch them again further South.  Dave took us for a big grocery shop near Sarlat in his Navara wagon. Had a laugh when he purchased a 27 Euro bottle of wine thinking it was 2.70.  The check out girl was not as amused as we were!!
 

 

20.06

Hiked 10kms along the small farm back roads of walnut trees, fields of corn and wheat, passed the kayak/canoe hire, rural campsites and charming old farmhouses into the surrounding countryside.  Domme looms in the distance.

21.06

 

Today is ‘Music Festival Day’ all over France.  It’s an opportunity for all musicians in France, professional and amateur to show off their talent.  Today is also Arlette’s birthday!  A bike ride through the woods and up the winding hillside to the village of Grolejac where we found the ‘voie verte’ bike route along the Dodogne following an old railway track through villages and woods to Carsac and on to Sarlat-la-Caneda. 

Walked along the main street exploring the charming twisting alleyways and back streets with their cafes and little restaurants.  Up the stairs to the Cathedral built in the 1100’s and down to  the Square with its ‘bronze canards’ (ducks), this is a region of ‘Foie Gras (duck liver pate).  We can see why more movies have been shot here than anywhere else in France, besides Nice and Paris!  Leaving the town centre Pamo stopped at a ‘velo’ outlet where the ‘tres gentils’ proprietor gave her bike a full service – gratuite!  (free of charge)  32 kms and back to Camp.

 Later in the evening we took advantage of the Music Festival and hiked the 8 kms, partly on a winding narrow cliff road to Domme.  Dave from Liverpool came with us, upon reaching the top he gasped he needed an oxygen mask with his beer!  We had beer and frites as we watched various acts all of which were pretty average but at least the village was making an effort!  We were joined by Roger and Lynn from Cheshire, new arrivals with their dog Jack.

 

 Back to the camp bar (Dave’s groin had given up by this time) also joined by Ian and Jan, a fun evening that carried on into the ‘wee hours’!!  

22.06   

Up early as Dave is taking us to the Market in Sarlat.  A large market, sprawling down the alleyways and more upmarket than a lot of markets we’ve seen. 

 

Selling everything from fruit and veges, meat, charcuterie, cheese and truffles along with clothing and all types of home ware!  After coffee we went exploring!  A wonderful morning followed by bacon, eggs and baked beans on toast back at camp in Dave’s caravan.  Hit the spot!

‘Goodbyes’ again to Jan and Ian who are heading home.

 

 

 23.06
Chatted to David and Fabienne (Camp Proprietors), Caroline (Assistant) and Thierry (Mr Fix It), as well as fellow campers we’ve met whilst here.  We caught up on the internet!

 24.06

 A surprise return visit from Karen and Graham (from Milton) in their 'Burstner Elegance', had a chat and a laugh!
Hiked 10kms through the pretty farmlands and walnut orchards, the winding road eventually leading up to the ‘Bastide’ Domme.  It’s passed ‘sleepy time’ (12noon-2pm) and the little medieval village is buzzing!  On our way back, we found the original stone pathway through the woods back up to Domme, we followed it out of curiosity to see where it had originated from.  A  picturesque walk above the Dordogne.  A fun night with Davey and Shar.

25.06

Our sunny ‘pool day’ turned cloudy but we stuck it out and enjoyed the pool.

26.06

Finally got our wheels rolling again and departed camp, lots of goodbyes to be said and sad to be leaving.  We’ve met some wonderful people here over the last two weeks and hopefully we’ll meet up with them again next year.  Only 50 odd kilometres to go to the cliff top sanctuary of Rocamadour in the ‘Lot Department’.  A great drive through canyons lined with oak trees typical of South East part of the Lot region. 

Rocamadour is a dramatic sight with its  houses clamped to a vertical cliff side beneath the ramparts of a 14th century chateau.

The Vierge Noire (Black Madonna) which is housed in the chapel drew a steady stream of pilgrims from across Europe in the middle ages and still they come several centuries on.

We found a good spot in the ‘Aires’ and walked down the switchback staircase to the old town to the Sanctuaries, a series of 12-14th century chapels.

 

 We joined the millions (including the King of France) who have climbed the 200+ stairs to the chapels although we did not do it on our knees as they did.  For some reason one of the chapels had a selection of rugby jerseys hanging on the wall including an All Black one!  Maybe the French pray there prior to World Cup matches.

Hiked up the cliff opposite Rocamadour to take in the dramatic scenery and also try for a photo opportunity, but no luck!!  Got the lungs going though.

27.06

Long drive today (320kms) to the West coast and Mimizan Plage.

We followed the ‘Lot’ River through vineyards, passed farms and cherry tree orchards  towards Agen then over the River Garonne.  The last few hours were in the ‘Forest des Landes de Gascogne’ pine forest - an easy and picturesque drive.

 

Through Mimizan to Mimizan Plage and an ‘Aires’ on the beach.  There are about 40 campers in the ‘Aires’ (12 euros including electricity), a great spot for the night!  We strolled the boardwalk up the sand hill to the beach.  A long, white sand, surf beach where kite surfers and  surfers are taking advantage of the wind and waves.  We were here many years ago but only have a vague recollection.  Noticed most were in wet suits so will have to check out water temperature tomorrow. Back along the beach and through the ‘surfie’ little town, lots of personality here!

28.06

We ran through the pine forest near the ‘Aires’ then travelled the 600 metres or so to our chosen camp, ‘Club Marina Landes’ (huge drive!!).  A wonderful camp with all the ‘ bells and whistles’ including an indoor pool as well as an outdoor pool, restaurant and cafe, tennis, gym, mini golf, boulangerie/patisserie (for our bread and ‘pain au chocolat'), food market, karaoke and disco, the last two start on 8 July, unfortunately we won’t be here then!!  16 euros per night and goes up to 55 euros in the high season. We definitely won’t be here then!!

The camp is situated on the ‘ Landes Pistes Cyclables’, an awesome network of asphalt bike paths that run through the pine forests from Bordeaux to the Pyrenees.  The French cater so well to their population (and us) with their facilities.  We biked the path to the small surfie beach town of Contis and back (32kms), hit the pool and then the inside pool – bliss!

29.06

A morning run/walk through the forest and then rode the bike path signposted to ‘Mimizan Bourg’ through the back roads and woodlands to Mimizan Centre.  Took advantage of McDonalds free Wifi, did a shop and back to camp (21kms). 

The sun came out in the afternoon so we hit the pool!

 

30.6  Had a pool day!

01.7

A great run through the pine forest following the shoreline, we spotted a deer!  The pine forest is a ‘Reserve Biologique’, the dunes, animals and birds are protected.  Up the sand hill board walk for a wonderful panorama of the beach.  Kindles and a fun late afternoon body surf in the sea!   More people on the beach today as it’s a beautiful day with no wind and the holiday makers are beginning to arrive.     

02.07

 

Started the day nice and quietly reading our books in the shade.  In the afternoon we decided to ride along the bike path south via Contis to ‘Lot et Mix’, to check out our next campsite (14 euros).  The ACSI card lasts for another week there before it goes up and then only to 20 euros.  A fantastic ride through the pine forest with a little undulation to make it fun.  Camp checked out well and we continued onto the beach at ‘Cap de L’Homy-Plage’.

Back to camp for a total ride of 57kms, too late to cook (says Pam) so off to the camp restaurant for Maigret (grilled duck breast), frites, salad, beer and coffee (43euro).

Tempted to have dessert after seeing some of the exotic creations delivered to the table next to us, however guilt prevented us!!!