Epernay

12.05

Enough of death and destruction, it’s time for some celebration and what better place to head for than Epernay, the heart of Champagne region!  As you arrive you pass a gigantic cork welcoming you.

Hotel Moet & Chandon

Beneath the streets in hundreds of kms of subterranean cellars, more than 200 million bottles of Champagne are being aged.  Only between 160 and 220 million bottles are produced here to maintain exclusivity and price.

All the names are here, Moet & Chandon, Verve Cliquot, Mercier but also over 5000 small scale vignerons in 320 odd villages produce most of the regions liquid gold!

Staying 2km from the Centre Ville in the Municipal Camp overlooking the River Marne.

13.05

Chatted to our Aussi neighbours  (we put up our kiwi flag) then off on the bikes for a 45km round trip exploring the Vallee De La Marne.

Sometimes the dream is not matched by the reality but this day lived up to our expectations and more!  Riding in the sunshine on quiet roads with nothing but pretty villages and their endless fields of grape vines all labelled with markers that read like a Who’s Who of champagne.  Passed the Abbey in Hautvillers where Dom Perignon is buried.

A pelaton of cyclists passed us as we neared a small village called Reuil.  As we entered the village many spectators laughed and joked that we were a long way behind the pack – bastards!  Had our baquette sandwich overlooking the Marne River where there was a street garage sale taking place.  Champagne was being sold for 2 euros a glass accompanied by a grilled sausage!  Pam likes sausages!

14.05

Into Epernay Centre Ville this morning and up the Avenue de Champagne where the elite Champagne Maisons are located - Moet & Chandon, Pol Roger, Mercier, Perrier Jouet, De Castellane to name a few. 

Visited the impressive cellars of Moet & Chandon as we did many years ago, some of the bottles put down back then would be ready about now!  Their underground cellars alone  could reach Paris (144km). 

Thought about buying a jeroboam (3L bottle) of premium Dom Perignon millesime (vintage Champagne) of 1998 for NZ$4200 but decided it would clash with our baked beans for dinner!  Got a flute of the bubbles as part of the tour though which was nice.  Our guide told us that 2002 was the last good season of grapes used for the Vintage Champagne and it could be up to 40 years before it comes out of the cellars.

15.05

Decided on another bike ride today through the Cote Des Blancs, the Chardonnay growing area of Epernay.  Got 15km into the 52k ride, as far as Cramant with it’s 8.6m high Champagne bottle before the cold wind and rain forced us to turn around.  As soon as we got back to camp our neighbours Paul and Mary (Peter was missing) asked us to join them on a tour of their favorite independent Champagne House called Breton Fils.  We sampled three glasses before buying two bottles of their product (28 euros)  We were also given a tour of the caves by the hospitable owner Renauld.  He told us that he exports 1,000 bottles per year to NZ.  Back to camp where our other neighbour John from Wales asked us over to sample his favourite Champagne, a Blanc de Blancs which is made only from the Chardonnay grape.  Another great day!