08th June  Alonnisos

Twenty minutes by Quick Cat (18 Euros) and we arrived at Alonnisos’s laid back little Port of Patitiri with two rocky cliffs surrounding a beach bay, fronted by tavernas and cafes and the continual “comings and goings” of fishing boats, yachts and ferries ! 

It all just gets better and better,  a smaller version of the other Islands but with a huge Marine Park which was set up in 1992 primarily to protect the Mediterranean Monk Seal, sadly only 400 remain – not much chance of seeing one!  Great pine forests and tracks, olive groves and a mixture of sandy and pebbled beaches.

On our way to look for rooms we were intercepted by Nikos who took us to Hotel Haravgi above the town – we secured a self contained studio for 25 Euros with great views over looking the Port.

We’ve been here 4 nights now and what fun!  We hiked the 4kms to the old Hora perched on the hill above  the Port – a mixture of old and new after an earthquake in 1965.  We explored the nearby beaches and stripped off and swam in the rocky coves!  Great having our goggles!  The water here is incredibly clear being a marine park.


 We rented a 125cc scooter from Road Runner Scooters after Helen  (the owner) advised it was much more practical than a 50cc bike!  No licience problems here!   We explored the island  (about 20k long)  swimming and hiking some tracks along the way!  We discovered a cute little fishing village called Steni Vala 10 kms from Patitiri - wonderful!.. And more  tiny fishing villages and stunning beaches.

We loved  Steni Vala so much we  decided to move and stay 4 nights here – arrived yesterday with scooter!  (Helen even gave us a lift here with our bags as we’d hired our bikes from her for a week). Staying in rooms called Drosostalia Seaview Rooms with kitchen, a huge balcony overlooking the tiny port and beach, only 20 Euros.  Making the most of all this luxury as it will become more difficult to find and more expensive as the month moves on and demand increases.  (Only mentioning costs in this blog to give those interested an idea of budget).


Returning from a walk last evening , we found we had lost the room keys,  not a problem for the owner (who also Owns Fanari Taverna) who plied us with free ouzo until another set was found.  Think we might loose them again tonight haha! 

Mamma Mia

 June 02   ( A year to the day we were in Piso Livardi on Paros for Chassi’s Birthday )

Good old Angela, our landlady, we were off to hire a car for a couple of days and she said “ I have a scooter you can use but no police”!  All fine with us!!  So a scooter for 10 Euros a day was ours.  It was her son’s 90cc Honda Cub.

Off we went for two days exploring this beautiful Island seeing beaches, pine forests, Churches and Monasteries.  A big call but we're prepared to say perhaps the best Island we've visited.  It has it all, a picturesque port, great open air eating and drinking, fantastic beaches, forest hikes and good safe roads for exploring on a scooter.   As we mentioned earlier, this is the Island where Mamma Mia was shot so thought we'd visit the various locations to compare them with the movie.

                                                                           

The little Church of Agios Ioannis was just beautiful, perched atop a large rock overlooking the sea.  We climbed up singing "Mamma Mia" at the top of our voices  (not!).  There was a little Taverna set up beneath the Church,  so we had lunch with an amazing view!  Village sausages... yum...

Next stop was the beach at Kastani where the scene on the jetty was shot... the jetty was an add on and is no longer there but a beautiful little beach... sadly there is a large landscaping going on, putting in a tavena,  probably to cater to the extra visitors it now receives.  Spent the rest of the time blatting around the Island checking out the other beaches and stopping along the way for swims and food.

Yesterday we hiked to Glisteri beach for a swim.  Got a fright on the walk when a large snake slithered across our path! Walked in the centre of the road from then on!

Now sitting in a cafe waiting for the Quick Cat Ferry to take us to Alonnisos

We had a little trouble renting a scooter on Skiathos,  went to a couple of offices who flatly refused us,  saying that as we only had a car licence we couldn’t hire a scooter of any kind, even a 50cc. They seem  much stricter here than on other Islands, must be a local issue.

Tried a few other outlets and finally got the go ahead for a 50cc as long as we didn’t try to take it to the mountains ( it barely made it up a few of the bigger hills).  They are great value at only  $NZ 24 per day.

Off we went, following the coast road checking out the beaches along the way.  Had one hairy moment when a cat ran out in front of us before I could react at all!  How we missed him we’ve no idea but we both lived to tell the tale.

Found some lovely beaches,  the prize being Koukounaries which is touted as the best beach in Greece.   It is certainly stunning, especially at the moment while it’s quieter  but once the crowds arrive it would be chaos.  Most of the beaches here charge 8 euros ( $12 ) for an umbrella and two chairs for the day.   We managed to find a great beach called Vromolimnos where the chairs were out but no one around to charge as it was quiet hehe.  Many beaches have chairs “gratis“ provided you buy drinks or food which is a great way to go!

We headed inland for a look but the poor old scooter struggled with the hills so we were somewhat restricted.  Saw some beautiful villas perched on the hillsides with wonderful views,  it’s an incredibly green and lush island, totally unlike those in the Cyclades which are often barren.  We had some rain yesterday which in itself is unusual, better not have any more! 

Our evenings are spent exploring the mazes of stepped , narrow alleyways, taking in the sights, sounds  and delicious aromas eminating from the many tavernas, restaurants, cafes and homes. Aligning the waterfront are many bars, playing every genre of music and providing seating  in the form of brightly coloured pillows . Happy hour seems to last for four hours for some reason, not that we’re complaining!  It’s this aimless wandering that is such a highlight of coming here.

One more day here and then off to check out Skopelos which is quite close.

30th May

Arrived at Skopelos Town today after a 1.5 hour ferry ride from Skiathos.  It’s  like a smaller version of Skiathos but much quieter.  Just stunning !  Another  harbour town lined with cafes and tavernas with the houses clinging to the hills above.  Angela met us off the ferry offering a pension with a balcony , sea views, a  kitchen and air con , what more could we ask for?  Turned out to be perfect and we haggled a little to get the room for 20 Euros.  Angela said we are the first guests here for the season!  Had lunch overlooking the water and then a walk to nearby Agios Konstantinos beach for a swim to clear our heads after a few too many ouzos last night!  We have been turned down at all places for a scooter so will hire a small car to  explore the Island.

31^st May

Today we did the big hike up to the 18th Century Monastery pearched on the hill above the town. It's home to an amazing 11th Century Icon of the Virgin Mary. Spectactular views!!! It's starting to get real hot now so the swim after the decent was great.   Another great lunch of pork souvlaki and salad overlooking the harbour.  It's a tough life but someone has to do it!!!

We've not mentioned the people yet but as some of you know they are an amazing race, generous, gregarious, creative and very welcoming. They love to chat and joke and seem to spend hours discussing life and politics.   All at the top of their voices haha!

Renting a car tomorrow to check out the beaches so watch this space xx

Tuesday 24^th May 2011

Yassas! 

Our Greek adventure begins!

 We are on a quick cat bound for the Island of Skiathos in the Sporades group of the Aegean.  We arrived here via two eleven hour flights ,a seven hour stopover in Singapore ( meeting up with Hamish on his way back from the IPL in India)an hour bus to the main Athens  bus terminal  and a two hour bus trip to the small mainland port of Agios Konstantinos

We are feeling a little jaded, not having had much sleep on the plane and fighting some hungry mosquitoes last night but the excitement is keeping us going, it’s wonderful to be back!  We celebrated our arrival with Greek salads, pork souvlaki and Mythos beer!  The food is amazing!

Wed 25^th

We were greeted on arrival by very few pension owners offering rooms  to let, as its early in the season, we chose one, and we got an incredible find, a two bedroom room with kitchen, two balconies, bathroom and a rooftop area with views over the harbour.  All for 30 Euros a night ( about NZ $58 )

Skiathos town is very picturesque, with its red-roofed, white washed houses built on two low hills  and with two small ports, an old port where the local fishing boats moor and a new port for the ferries and yachts.  The entire waterfront is lined with cafes, tavernas, bars and hotels, a very cosmopolitan Island as it has an airport and gets saturated with tourists during July/August.  Perfect now though as there is a reasonable amount of people to make it interesting and loads to look at in the narrow,  stepped streets and alley ways.

Meryl Streep used Skiathos Town as her base while filming Mama Mia over on Skopelos Island ( our next stop ) We are trying to find the house she stayed in !

There are some amazing tavernas here , purched on the hills above on the water, with sensational views,  all very romatic and condusive to eating more than you need!  Last night we had a Greek salad , fried calamari, stuffed tomatoes and peppers and the usual Mythos beer. Making you hungry Chas?   After our morning swim ( still a little chilly )  we watched a local fisherman in a small row boat catch 4 octopus , dragging a small lure that looked like a small fish...something to try maybe !!!! All we need is a boat!

There are some 65 beaches here to choose from,  including one touted as the best beach in Greece at Koukounaries. We shall see, as we plan to get a scooter tomorrow and go exploring.

Welcome

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 We hope you enjoy following our travels to the Greek Islands.

 Commencing 22nd May 2011

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