Wednesday, August 19, 2020

Europe 2019 France The Return Trip - Basque St Jean-de-Luz, Île de Ré

15 July - 3 September     

Back into France today!  150km drive heading to St Jean-de-Luz in the Basque Region.  
Through farmlands dotted with ancient little hamlets surrounded by the Pyrénees mountain ranges.  Into the Neverro Region through the Pyrénees via Tolosa, Astigarraga, San Sebastián and a pretty ‘Aires’ on the River Bidasoa.  Hit traffic in Irun before crossing over the border into France.  Through Urrugne, Ciboure, Socoa to St Jean-de-Luz  and onward to Erromardie Beach and ‘Camping Erromardie’ located alongside the beach - a favourite spot of ours!  (42 euros, high season, no ACSI). 






St-Jean de Luz is on the Atlantic Coast in the Basque region of France and just a few kilometres from the border of Spain.  The town sits on the River Nivelle and is overlooked by the Pyrenean foothills.  



Headed to ‘Camping Erromardie’ which is in three separate parts stretching along Plage d’Erromardie and is 4kms from the centre of St-Jean de Luz. (42 euros in high season, no ASCI; 17 euros during September).  Reserved a great pitch with shade in the ‘third part’ of the camp, about 20m from the beach.  We were greeted with lots of ‘bonjours’ from familiar French faces from previous years. 

This is a beautiful spot!  There's ‘lots of action’ and things to do as well as being ideal for improving our French.  We have friends who live here, also friends who camp here. It’s fantastic to be back!



Seven weeks later and I’ve had a break from the blog

What an amazing seven weeks!  Hiking, biking, swimming, beaching and blobbing.  It’s been great for our fitness, our French and our ‘Joie de Vivre’!  :)
Have had a wonderful time with our friends and met some amazing people, in fact, we’ve become part of the ‘long term camping family’ here!  Have enjoyed sampling Basque delights, fabulous dinners and lunches, soirees overlooking ‘Erromardie Beach’ as well as the sunsets and friendly vibe!  




Some highlights: 


Our day in San Sebastián with Polly and Jon.








Our bike ride into the Pyrénées through St Jean-de-Luz to Ascain up the small Col St Ignace,  back through St Jean de Luz to Camp.  







Our hike with Daniel and Nadine to the top of ‘La Rhune’ (1000m).  They committed to hiking 'La Rhune' with us this year and trained during the year.  They lost weight and cured Daniel's diabetes. 
A difficult descent for Daniel but both he and Nadine were determined to overcome their challenge which they succeeded in doing admirably.  Amazing for us to be with them.   


An excellent bottle of Rose Champagne to celebrate afterwards.

Our hike in the Gorges de Kakueta in Les Vallées du Haut Béarn about 150kms away from St-Jean de Luz near the village of Sainte Engrâce.  Hiked along the narrow board walk and rocky tracks for about two and a half hours through the gorge.  



The Pink Floyd Concert overlooking the beach.  Great musicians and a fantastic vibe!

Dinner and catch-up evening with Thierry and Jacqueline.









Exploring the beautiful Spanish Basque towns of Urdax and Elizondo with Thierry.   






4 September

After endless ‘au revoirs' and ‘à l’année prochaine’ at the camp, we hit the road!  Moving fairly quickly, making our way North to catch the ferry to England.  Skirted Bayonne leaving the ‘Côte Basque’, through the ‘Côte d’Argent’ and ‘Côtes des Landes’ heading to an ‘Aires’ somewhere near St-Émilion.  Through farmlands and long stretches of pine forests in the ‘Lande des Gascogne Park Reserve’ and a picnic lunch. 




Into ‘Département de La Garonne’ and the ‘Route des Vins de Bordeaux’ and the vineyards and small wine villages selling wine and offering ‘dégustation’.  Bordeaux has over 5000 chateaux, referring not to palatial residences but rather to properties where grapes are raised, picked, fermented and matured as wine.  Smaller chateaux sometimes accept ‘walk-in visitors’ but at many places you have to make advance reservations.  Many chateaux close during ‘vendange’ (grape harvest) in October.  Found an ‘Aires’ south of St-Èmilion in the medieval town of ‘Sauveterre de Guyenne’ among the vines.

5 September


Heading to Île de Ré!  A pretty drive through rows and rows of manicured vineyards creeping up the hilly slopes through St-Jean de Blaignac and across ‘La Dordgone’.  Charming little wine villages including Merlande and Vigonet - we’re in the heart of ‘the wine country’.  Via Gorgeons and the ‘vins de St-Émilion’ and St-Émilion perched above the vineyards in the distance.  We experienced the magic of this beautiful medieval town a few years ago.  Through busy Libourne,   
heading to the coast, passed fields of corn and ‘armies of spent sunflowers’ waiting to be harvested.  A spectacular drive in June/July when the sunflowers are in full bloom. 


Through pretty medieval ‘Pons' with it’s wonderful ‘five shepherd’ monument, via Rochefort and over the toll bridge to Île de Ré.  (16 euros return).  The toll bridge links the island to La Rochelle.  Travelled about 12kms to ‘Municipal Camping Martin-de-Ré’ on the northern coast recommended to us by Dr Bob and Amanda. (27.80 euros).  The camp is ideally located to walk into Martin-de-Ré and cycling the island.  Found a great pitch next to the ramparts with a tap.

Île de Ré is scattered with villages of colourful-shuttered, whitewashed buildings with red-Spanish tile roofs.  It spans just 30kms from east to west.  Martin de Ré is the main town.

Went on a ‘recce’ of the camp.

6 September



It’s a windy but beautiful day and we went biking!  

An amazing bike ride following the bike paths around the island.  60kms.

Into Martin-de Ré and following the coastal bike path through the seaside resort town of ‘La Courade-sur-Mer’ through farmer’s fields and vineyards.  





Passed the salt marshes and through the  charming village of Loix.  Loix has the last tide mill which was used to clean the salt before the grinding process.  Evidently salt farming ensured the prosperity of the region until the nineteenth century, around forty producers remain on the island.  The marshes are also a sanctuary for wild birds.  Back through farmer’s fields to pretty Ars-en-Ré and onward to ‘Le Phare de Baleines’, the Lighthouse.



On our return journey we stopped at ‘La Rhetaise’ ‘dégustation’ for a dozen oysters each with a glass of ‘Île-de-Ré White’.  Superb!




7 September - 8 September


Walked into Martin-de-Ré, lovely to visit this beautiful quaint fishing port again.  Strolled the narrow cobbled streets filled with art and craft shops, passed the alfresco eateries overlooking the marina.  The town is surrounded by seventeenth century fortifications - walked the ramparts and enjoyed coffee at one of our favourite cafe’s, ‘Du Lever Du Soleil Brasserie’ with a great vista over the port and harbour.  Strolled to another of our favourite seafood eateries, the ‘des huîtres et crevettes degustation’ overlooking the sea (oysters and prawns), but too windy to slurp oysters, next time!  



Wandered the streets in the evening and enjoyed an ‘Île de Ré White’ with our camp neighbours.

9 September

Overcast today, perfect for driving!  Left Île de Ré and headed north into the countryside through Charante-Maritime passed the cut wheat fields, corn and spent sunflowers waiting to be harvested.  Absolutely stunning in June/July when the sunflowers are in full bloom.  
Through Ste-Hermine and into the Loire-Atlantique, apple orchards and ‘des vignobles Nantaise’ (vineyards).  Skirting Nantes and into the ‘Vallée de L’Erdre’ and horse studs.  A nice picnic stop via Châteaubriant into the ‘Îlle-et-Villaine’ and ‘Brittany’.  




Little stone villages with slate roofs to medieval Vitré and ‘Camping Municipal de St. Etienne’. (14 euros).  A great little camp in the woods and walking distance into the city.  Strolled the ‘Parc du Jardins’ into the ‘historic town’ passed the half-timbered houses to the thirteenth-sixteenth century ‘witch hat’ turreted castle ‘Chateaux des Barons’.   Walked the ramparts to the ‘Notre Dame Cathedral’.  

Back to camp just in time to beat the rain.

10 September 



Awoke to a sunny autumnal day, glorious as we took the small roads into the lush countryside and farmlands sprinkled with little slate roofed villages.  Through Gorron and into ‘Normandie et Maine’, through picturesque Domfront, apple orchards and farms.  Stoped near a lovely ‘aires’ at ‘La Ferriére Aux Étangs’.  Here we did as the French do and set up our table by the small lake and enjoyed our picnic lunch.  
A rural setting as we continued to Argentan and onto Gacé where we found ‘Camping Municipal Le Pressoir’. (14 euros).  An excellent little camp near the small village.  

11 September

An auspicious day today, Lefty has just clocked 200,000kms and ‘he’ continues to go ‘great guns’!


It’s another sunny autumnal day and only 150kms to go ‘en route’ to one of our favourite camps near Dieppe.  Another pretty drive through the countryside and little villages, via Bernay, fields of turnips and scattered ‘calvados signs’, skirting Rouen and onward to Neufchâtel en Bray in the ‘Pays de Bray’, and our camp, ‘Camping Ste. Claire’.  (18 euros).  Greeted by the kind ‘monsieur’ Francis, who had reserved one of our favourite pitches near the river for us. ‘



The camp is located in the grounds of a picturesque farmstead with apple trees and is ideally located on the ‘London - Paris Avenue Verte’ (cycle path) with supermarket and shops up the road.  We’ve a fabulous pitch backing onto the river with views of the medieval town.  It’s also an ideal camp to prep Lefty for his ‘big sleep’!  Walked to ‘Leclerc’ supermarket and stocked up.  

We began the ‘big clean’ before we catch the ferry to Dieppe on 15 September.

12 September

It’s a special day today and it’s raining.  It’s Pamo’s birthday:)
The day began with ‘pain au chocolats’ and coffee!  Put our bike ride ‘on hold’ and focused on cleaning and sorting Lefty!

In the evening we enjoyed a a tasty dinner at the camp’s homemade traditional little restaurant.

13 September-14 September 

Cleaning and prepping Lefty and three loads of washing and drying done!  The ducks enjoyed the left over food.

15 September

We ‘hit the road’ early in time to catch the ferry from Dieppe to Newhaven.  A perfect crossing in calm waters.  Enjoyed a roast pork lunch.

Caught up with Nat and Mary on Hayling Island.

19 September - 11 October

Finished off our trip with three weeks in Koh Samui, Thailand.  






Stayed in a great resort on the beach. 










Loved the people and the food.

Europe 2020

Who would have believed the world would be in crisis with Covid-19.  

We have cancelled our planned 2020 Europe trip and 'Lefty' is being looked after in England.
Like everyone we hope there will be a vaccine soon.
Stay safe, look out for each other and be kind.