Europe 2019 Spain Costa Del Sol, Gibralter, Andalucia continued

11 June

Hard to leave our beautiful spot in the Sierra Nevadas, perhaps we’ll return sooner than we think:)  

Heading back to the coast, en route to Estepona or Gibralter.  

Through Penos Genil, the little town in the valley below our camp along the River Genil and back through the mountains, manicured hills of olive, orange and almond trees.  

Down to the Med following the coastal road via the Costa Del Sol and coastal towns, Malaga, Torremolinos, Fuengirola, Marbella and Estepona.  A beautiful long sandy coastline sprawling back into the hills.  Hard to believe this area was formerly made up of a series of fishing villages, today the region is a world-renowned tourist destination.  Has a great climate and is also a great place for avid golfers.  It’s no wonder this region has the biggest concentration of golf courses in Europe, in fact it’s now nicknamed ‘Costa Del Golf’.   Estepona bought back wonderful memories for us, we were parked on the beach in our Kombi camper when we were kids.  Not surprising that we didn’t recognise much, however we were lucky enough to recognise two artesian wells on the beach which may have been where were parked all those years ago.  Decided to bypass this region, beautiful but full on, we headed to Gibraltar! 

Into La Linea and found a great Camper Park on the Marina (12.50 euros).  Passports in hand, we walked through customs, over the airport runway, into Gibralter.  Felt quite bizarre and even more bizarre seeing English brand names on the stores and pubs here.  Dominated by the Rock, the town has a charm of its own. 

Decided to go for an early evening climb to see if we could make it to the top.  Climbed the series of stairs onto the windy narrow path where we met the monkey family happily eating alongside the remains of the fourteenth century Moorish Castle. 

Through the woods, steep in parts and up to the top!  What a stunning panorama including Tangier in Morocco.  Made a quick return trip to beat the dark!  Had a very late fab fish dinner at the little traditional restaurant on the Marina.

12 June

Heading inland to El Puerto de Santa María which we’ll use as a base to visit Cadiz.  Headed back through La Linea and San Roque, a much greener drive in contrast to the stark mountain ranges.  Rolling tree covered hills, small lakes, cultivated fields, little farm hamlets with cattle, donkeys and horses.  To Pam’s delight about 20 kms from Jerez, fields and fields of sunflowers dominated the landscape.  Stunning!

Passed the salt pans to the coast and El Puerto de Santa María and Camping Playa Las Dunas (20 euros, from 15 June ACSI does not apply, rate goes up to 28.75 euros).  Found a nice shaded pitch under the pine woods with sandy surface.  The camp is opposite the beach and is an ideal base to catch the ferry to Cadiz.  There is a an excellent restaurant at the entrance, has swimming pool, supermarket and good facilities.

Walked along the beach promenade into the old town.  Traffic free with cobbled streets, white washed houses and charming Andaluz architecture - wrought iron and tiles. The city was conquered in 711 by Arab (Moors) from North Africa who renamed the city Alcante, Port of Salt, due to the old salt industry.  However in 1260 it was conquered and renamed.  Christopher Columbus’s second expedition to the Americas set sail from here. 

El Puerto de Santa María is famous for its light, dry sherry (known as ‘fino’) and has the third largest the bullring in Spain.  Took in all the sights including the bullring which dates back to1880 and has space for 15,000 spectators.  It’s now no longer in use but is being renovated.   The twelfth century, Castle of San Marcos - a fortified church and the Basilica Menor Nuestra which was the main church from the end of the fifteenth century.

Enjoyed seeing the storks peering out from their nests on top of the steeples and high roof tops.

13 June

Caught the morning ferry to the ancient port city of Cadiz.  The city boomed in the sixteenth century as a base for exploration and trade.  It has more than 100 watch towers traditionally used for spotting ships.  

Strolled through the markets on the Palacio de Congresos to the stunning eighteenth century Cadiz Cathedral located in the lively square.  Enjoyed watching a talented flamenco dancer performing to the crowds.  

Walked the waterfront promenade to the Castillo de San Sebastian, strolled the mixture of lovely plazas branching off onto narrow cobbled lanes.  

Passed elegant and funky alfresco eateries and a food mall with lots of yummy traditional food to sample.  Tapas, paella and sangria are very popular here.  Paella and a cheeky sangria, 6 euros! 

Early evening caught the ferry back to Lefty.

14 June

Catch up day.  Chatted to our Brit neighbours from Kent. 

In the evening, strolled along the beach promenade passed the beachfront eateries including Romerijo, famous for their shellfish, to the other end of the city.  Passed the train station and back through an area of elegant housing and hotels.  Around 11pm discovered the ‘eating streets’ crammed with local enjoying pre-dinner drinks and tapas. 

15 June

Heading inland to Seville through a gorgeous display of sunflowers.:)  Agricultural farming - vineyards, olive trees as well as tiny olive plants protected by cylinders, cultivated fields and hay bales.  A white washed hilltop village in the distance, via Los Palacios.  

Skirted Seville to Gelves and headed to Port Gelves (15 euros).  A great spot on the marina with shower, toilet, washing machines and ideally located to bike into Seville.

Late afternoon we found a bike track following the River Guadalquivir, onto a path through Gelves, over the bike bridge onto a series of bike paths into Seville.  Seville is the capital of southern Spain’s Andalusia region and famous for its flamenco dancing.

Thought we’d do a ‘recce’ of the city before returning tomorrow.  

Crowds of people are gathered in the square near the Alcazar Castle, we thought there was Royalty visiting.  Turns out a famous Spanish football player is getting married at the Alcazar Castle, consequently most of the Castle complex is barricaded off.  No probs, back tomorrow. 

A beautiful Cathedral nearby and strolled some of the cobbled alley ways before crossing the Rio Guadalquivir with the tower, ‘Torre del Oro’ on one side, back to our bikes.  Turned out to be a thorough ‘recce’ as we ended up circling the city about five times before we found the     bike route back to camp.  

Enjoyed a brilliant evening with two ‘Kiwis’ who parked next to us in their new camper van.   Lots of laughs with Ron and Margaret from Howick.

16 June

Another beautiful day!  After coffee with Ron and Margaret we biked into Seville.  Stuart and Susie our Geordie neighbours, followed us on their electric bikes as we know the route very well :)   Parked the bikes near the river and we went exploring. 

A beautiful city with lots of vitality, wonderful architecture, stunning landmarks and monuments, lovely eateries and squares.  It’s the city of Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro.  Col didn’t manage to find a barber!

Walked ‘our feet off’, took in all the sites, enjoyed the flamenco dancing and the cobbled alleyways with flower balconies and patios, the tranquil parks and gardens. 

There were long queues at the ornate Alcazar castle, built under the Moorish rule so we walked through the gardens and didn’t join the queues.  The Gothic Seville Cathedral with its minaret turned bell tower is the site of Christopher Columbus’s tomb, its spectacular.  

A favourite was the beautiful Plaza de España in the Parque Maria Luis built for the Ibero-American Exposition in 1929 and the eighteenth century Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza bullring.  Found a funky paella eatery and enjoyed a tasty traditional bean and pork paella.  Walked the River Guadalquivir - palms, colourful houses, alfresco eateries and the remnants of the Moorish fortified walls, Torre del Oro (Golden Tower), which originally enclosed the city, along its banks.

Early evening the four of us biked back to camp.  A fab day!

Off to Portugal tomorrow!

Europe 2019 Spain - Costa Cálida, Costa Del Sol, Andalucia

You can double click on the photos to make them bigger.

30 May

Left our lovely camp in Villajoyosa on the Costa Blanca and headed further down the coast to the Costa Cálida.  

Passed the characteristic terracotta and white washed beach resorts with a ‘Moroccan feel’ via Alicante and the Castello de Santa Bárbara in the distance.  

Through the valley and the lemon groves and small settlements backed by barren mountain ranges.  Via Murcia and into the Sierra Espuña Natural Reserve.  Into Spaghetti Western country and an amazing landscape with a desert feel!  

Barren, arid terrain, olive groves, cactus, palms and rows of shade cloth protecting young fruit trees, almond trees and veggies from the heat as well as the cold at night.  Into the Region of Murcia and over the hills to the sea.  Following the coastal road via ‘white washed’ seaside town Águilas, to ‘Camping Bellavista’ situated 3kms from Águilas on the Costa Cálida.  This region, (Warm Coast), is the 250 stretch of Mediterranean coastline in the Province of Murcia.  The region has a micro-climate with hot temperatures and some aridity (less than 34cm of rain annually).

31 May

Had a fabulous day exploring Águilas.  Followed the coastal path alongside the beach onto the promenade into picturesque Águilas which sits under the Castillo San Juan De Las Águilas.  This town seems quite unknown as a tourist place.  It’s visited mainly by the  locals and also tourists with inside knowledge of the town's great beaches and climate.

There are two sandy beaches and one pebbly beach in the town centre.  Strolled the characteristic beach promenade with its eateries and steam locomotive monument to the end of town with its charming port.  

Appreciated the funky work of local artists as we climbed the colourful stairs up to the top of the castle, for a wonderful vista of the town and its surroundings.  The castle was originally erected as a sixteenth century defensive fortress to protect against pirate attacks. Climbed up to the Aguilica Peak look-out point, eroded and looks like an eagle’s beak.

On our return we left the promenade and climbed the sets of stairs up into the 'old quarter', along narrow winding lanes passing cute Greek style houses to the old ‘Sagrera' flour mill.  No longer in use but very much a part of Águilas.

Back to the promenade where we had a fabulous lunch overlooking the beach with its palms and clear blue water.  The Greek Islands comes to mind as we enjoyed our tomato, cheese, olive and anchovy salad, two calamari dishes, and prawn fritters on a 'Greek style table’.

1 June

Spent a glorious day relaxing under the shade cloth and in the pool!  Chatted to our nice neighbours from Manchester who have lived in Spain for nine years.  Both speak Spanish fluently.

2 June

Its another beautiful day!  Decided to stay an extra day and walk the coastal pathway in the opposite direction of Águilas town centre.  A scenic walk along the cliff tops with its long series of unspoilt and picturesque sandy beaches, rocky coves, and funky little eateries. 
                                                Reminds us of the Greek Islands! 

It’s Sunday and the locals are making the most of their “beach day out”.  One of the bays with easy road access, is very popular with camper vans mainly with an ‘E sticker’ (Spanish), parked overlooking the beach.  Some are free camping, a beautiful spot!  Stopped for a drink at one of the eateries in the middle of a long sandy beach, then continued our walk back into Águilas.  

Enjoyed a chicken lunch overlooking the beach.

Swims back at camp!

3 June

Heading further down the coast to Mojacár into the Andalucia Region following the cliff top coast road around the rocky coves.  A stunning drive looking out to sea, terracotta roofs and white washed houses.  Palms and oleanders against a back drop of barren hills.  Through Villaricos with its shade cloth covered fruit and veggie patches and passed the campers parked in the ‘Aires’ on the beach around Garrucha. 

Into Mojácar and ‘Camping El Cantal De Mojácar Playa’ (25 euros).  Supposed to stay a minimum of two nights here but the owner let us book for one night.  Ideal location to walk to Mojacár old town and beaches.  Facilities basic, but  clean.  A non ASCI camp  

Climbed the 5kms up into Mojácar Pueblo (old town).
Moorish, white washed, charming hilltop town perched in the foothills of the Sierra Cabrera. Came across a chameleon on the footpath, a beautiful green colour.  Strolled the narrow streets and alleyways lined with geranium pots, climbed the stairs to the    top for a wonderful panorama.

Explored the long sandy beach below the old town geared towards the Brits.  Eateries, bars and white washed apartments down the opposite end.  Music from the ‘disco bar’ - you can see this place ‘rocks’ particularly over busy July and August.   

4 June 

Heading to Granada today!  Into the barren hills.  White washed hilltop towns scattered in the distance and patches of fertile land growing fruit and olive trees.  Small farm settlements around the groves.  Passed hilltop Sorbas and rows and rows of olive trees, through Tabernas and into 'cowboy country'.

People are visiting Hollywood Western Movie sets, bizarre seeing the sets in the middle of barren hills but a perfect landscape!  Lefty is having to do some climbing over the hills and through Géras into the Parque Natural de Sierra Nevada.  Through the valley and surprised to see snow on the ranges, evidently there is all year skiing around here. 

All of a sudden it’s got busy as we near Granada.  

Took the ring road up into the Sierra Nevadas and up to ‘Camping Las Lomas’, overlooking stunning mountain scenery and a beautiful water reservoir (20 euros).  Great pool and facilities.  Thrilled to get online and purchase tickets to the Alhambra as June was fully booked, we were able to take advantage of a cancellation.

5 June

Caught the bus into Granada (7.20 euros for two return) and made our way through the historical city centre and climbed up to one the most visited sites in Spain, the Alhambra.  Went for a ‘recce’ in preparation for our visit tomorrow.   

Took a narrow path that lead us back down to the river then another steep climb to the former Arabic barrio, ‘Albaicin’ which is also Granada’s bohemian and artistic centre.   We wound through the cobbled streets, passed the white washed houses, flowered squares and eateries'.  Pretty, rustic, and quaint with a traditional feel!  

Decided to climb up the path and stairs to the highest point, ‘Emita de San Miguel Alto’, for spectacular views of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada mountains.  

Had a fabulous calamari lunch in the barrio, enjoyed the flamenco guitarist and browsed the markets.  Strolled passed tapas bars, restaurants and cafes to the giant Cathedral of Granada.  Listened to a  talented busker singing Phil Collins songs as we wandered through Plaza Nueva Square. The Square is busy and bright and favoured by street performers. 

Its been a fabulous day rambling this beautiful, fascinating chilled out city!

Early evening we caught the bus back into the Sierra Nevada and our camp.

6 June

What a glorious day spent at the Alhambra Palace!  We took the entire day to explore the beautiful Generalife Gardens - the leisure place for the Kings of Granada;  the Alcazaba - the fortified military compound and the Nazaries Palace - residence of the Kings of Granada. 

The Nazaries Palace was the only part of the Alhambra we had to book and got an elected time of 3pm.  

A very spiritual place and a joy to wander around at leisure taking in the incredible views, the architecture, workmanship, creativity and history of the place dating back to 889AD.  
The Alhambra was ignored until the thirteenth century when a rebuild of the palatial city was begun by Muhammad I, founder of the Nazrid Dynasty.

We took time out at lunchtime to wander back downhill for a tasty chorizo tortilla, with salad and a coke with plenty of ice!  

A magical day in what has become one of our favourite cities.

7 June - 9 June

Well deserved rest and catch up days after having walked 'our feet off'.  Spent time in the beautiful pool overlooking the Sierra mountains, got some reading done and just caught up with ourselves.  It’s so picturesque, quiet and relaxing here. 

10 June

Decided to have a final explore of this area before we leave tomorrow.

Crossed over the road from our camp and headed up into the hills through farmers orchards, passed goats, chook runs  and small irrigation channels into Güéjar Sierra.  The origins of this little mountain village date back to when it was an Islamic silk producing hamlet dependent on the capital, Granada.  A peaceful stroll through the narrow streets and alleyways, lovely square passed the traditional butcher and bakery surrounded by a fabulous vista of the Sierra Nevada mountains.  

Headed to the end of town and down the windy narrow road to the start of the reservoir where we followed the old railway line path, ‘via verde of the Sierra Nevada’.  A very scenic route through the Sierra Nevadas following the River Genil.  The line was built in 1890 to transport minerals extracted from various mines in the area.  The path took us to Restaurant Maitena with it’s alfresco tables under the shade beside the river.  Enjoyed a wonderful lamb lunch in a superb setting.  

After lunch headed up into the mountains through tunnels, climbing higher, steep in some parts, for spectacular views!  Surprised to see cherry orchards, loaded with cherries, in the valleys of these vast mountain ranges.  After 20kms and some challenging climbing, we returned back to camp via the road through Güéjar Sierra. 

What a beautiful area the Sierra Nevada is, hiking, mountain biking and skiing is ‘king’ here in the winter months.

Off to Estepona or Gibralter tomorrow!