6 July
Left our camp following the signs to Lake Lausanne, as we get closer to the lake the land ‘flattens out’ into farmlands and fields of corn and wheat. Across the border and into France following a picturesque country road through farming hamlets and passed ski lifts up to the surrounding mountains. Onward to St Antoine for a picnic lunch and into the Department de la Jura.
The Jura Mountains stretch in an arc from the Franco-Swiss border from the Rhine to the Rhone. A region of forests, lakes and vineyards, dairy farms, yellow wine and cheeses. As we pass through pretty stone villages around Bonnevaux, Tour de France memorabilia decorates the streets - looks like the Tour has been or is on it’s way here! Through thick pine forests and pastoral landscapes, harvesting is in ‘full swing’ and the sunflowers look set to bloom in a week or so.
Our camp is near the little village of Montbarrey, close to Dole and Arbois. Camping ‘Les 3 Ours’ situated on La Loue river with swimming pool and restaurant. Chose a pitch on the river (22.40 euros for river pitch. ACSI discounts no longer apply, as it’s the busy summer season).
Went on a recce to check out bike routes and enjoyed our salmon steak overlooking the river.
7 July
Lounge lizards today, swimming in the pool, reading our books and making friends with the local bunnies.
8 July
A pretty bike ride through fields of corn and maize, passed hay bales and sunflowers about to bloom. Through little stone villages and onto the ‘route des vins’ and vineyards growing down the slopes, over the bridge and into Arbois. Arbois is a wine producing town and home to Louis Pasteur who invented pasteurisation and developed the first rabies vaccine in the nineteen century.
Wandered around this attractive and artistic town, decorated with colourful ribbons and hand made flowers. There are many wine specialist shops with meticulous window displays and degustation caves (wine cellars for tasting). We were told the ‘yellow wine’ produced here is a strong flavoured white wine which goes well with cheeses, it tastes a bit like sherry! Savagnin grapes are harvested late and their sugar-saturated juices left to ferment for a minimum of six years and three months in oak barrels. Ate our picnic lunch overlooking the River Doubs and took a route via the forest back to camp. A 40kms scenic trip.
9 July
Cycled a pastoral route through little slate-roofed stone farming villages to the medieval town of Dole, birth place of Louis Pasteur.
Crossed over the flower bridge and ate our lunch overlooking the ‘boats for hire’ on the River Doubs.
Crossed over the flower bridge and ate our lunch overlooking the ‘boats for hire’ on the River Doubs.
Went for a scenic stroll along the Canal des Tanneurs, with it’s alfresco eateries, flowers, bridges and beautiful old stone buildings.
Headed back to camp along the canal, crossed over the River Doubs passing some swimming horses, through the corn fields and little villages into the forest. A great ride with lots of variety and a good work out. 46kms and we were back in Montbarrey and our camp.
10 July
A catch up, swimming day! Two of the ‘local bunnies’ now known as ‘Hazel and Harry’, are regular visitors, enjoying their carrots and digestive biscuits for breakfast! Lots of activity on the the river - there is a fire squad practicing rescue procedures (after finally managing to get their boat started), fishermen, kayakers, swimmers including horses and dogs, and locals ‘picnicing’!
11 July
Left our camp and began making our way west across France to our booked camp near La Rochelle. We crossed into the region de la Burgogne (Burgundy), through Chalon-sur-Sôane to a great ‘Aires’ just outside the town of Paray-le-Monial situated on the Canal du Centre.
The canal connects the Loire with the Saône and is parallel to the river Bourbince. Went on the ‘scenic walk’ to the gardens on the outskirts of town then over the bridge and the beautiful eleventh century Basilica which dominates. Many pilgrims visit the Basilica, religious sanctuaries and churches here. The Basilica looks even more spectacular lit up in the evening! Twenty campers parked for the night in our 'Aires'.
12 July
Heading towards Montluçon, travelling through the rolling hills of Burgundy, passed farming hamlets and hay bales, harvested wheat fields and vineyards to Bezenet where we had a picnic alongside the river.
The Haute-Vienne in the west and the Corèze in the southeast also make up Limousin. Through little hamlets to St Vaury and a wonderful ‘Aires’ with a lake, near the town of Jarnage. Met 'Iceman' the camper dog!
Went for a pretty walk into the countryside, through farmlands, passed charming old farmsteads. Fifteen campers parked for the night.
13 July
Continued our trip west towards Poitiers into the Haute Vienne Départemente towards Limoges and then the Charente-Maritime region. A pretty rural drive through characteristic little towns to the historic town of Confolens in the northeast of the Charante Départemente. Confolens is surrounded by water, the Vienne river on one side and the Goire on the other. It developed from the fifteenth century thanks to the expansion of it’s tanneries and the renown of it’s market fairs. Since the twentieth century it’s annual folklore festival of world dance and music attracts dancers, musicians and tourists from all over the world.
Our GPS inadvertently took us down a no exit street, however with the assistance of the residents, we crossed over the Vienne river and found our camp, Camping ‘Des Ribières' on the Vienne River (20 euros).
Walked into town for an explore, it’s cobbled streets, bridges and stone buildings add to it’s charm. There is a large British presence here, evidently the British and Dutch have been buying property in and around this town since the twentieth century. The town is getting ready to celebrate Bastille day!
14 July It’s Bastille day! (The storming of the Bastille on 14 July 1789)
Biked around Confolens environs! It’s quiet on the roads today, the ‘locals’ are enjoying the public holiday. Climbed up to the old Chateau overlooking Saint-Germain-de Confolens, then a hilly ride to the little hamlet of Esse and back through Confolens.
The Pompiers (fireman) are putting on a wonderful spread to celebrate Bastille Day! Steak and chips, a band and a fireworks display later in the evening! There are long tables laid out in the Square and firework platforms have been placed across the river in readiness for tonight!
Later in the evening we returned to the Square, the tables are full and everyone is enjoying their meal and the band. The town is buzzing! There is music on the other side of the bridge and people are waiting for the fireworks to commence. Stood on the bridge and met Hillary, a Brit who has lived in France for the past thirty years. 11pm and enjoyed a spectacular fireworks display over the river Vienne synced to classical music.
15 July
Heading west towards Niort and La Rochelle in the Charente-Maritime region, passed fields of corn and sunflowers nearly in bloom. As we get closer to the coast, the sunflowers are looking beautiful in full bloom, little villages with white washed buildings and red Spanish-tile roofs dot the farmlands. Into the Marais Poitevin and ‘Camping La Garenne’ a cute camp about 30kms from La Rochelle, surrounded by sunflowers near the little village of Courçon.
It has a bar and pool, and ‘pain au chocolat’ on order. (19euros). We’ve a large shady pitch and are near to the cycle paths and villages along the canals. Marais Poitevin a national park, is a bird-filled wetland dubbed ‘the Venice Verte' (green Venice) due to its maze of waterways covered in green duckweed around spring and summer. The marshlands are interspersed with villages and woods threaded by canals and bike paths. Thierry and Bridget run the camp with their son Kevin helping out this week, great people who enjoy a laugh!
It has a bar and pool, and ‘pain au chocolat’ on order. (19euros). We’ve a large shady pitch and are near to the cycle paths and villages along the canals. Marais Poitevin a national park, is a bird-filled wetland dubbed ‘the Venice Verte' (green Venice) due to its maze of waterways covered in green duckweed around spring and summer. The marshlands are interspersed with villages and woods threaded by canals and bike paths. Thierry and Bridget run the camp with their son Kevin helping out this week, great people who enjoy a laugh!
We’ll spend the busy season here exploring the area and improving our French over the next few weeks.