Europe 2023 Here We Come 

England, France - Île-de-Ré, The Loire Valley and Tours

Very excited to be writing this blog once again.
This time we’ll be away 8-weeks in line with Brexit 90-days regulations.  
We’ve saved 4-weeks for another trip in September.
We plan to spend most of our time in our favourite, France, and a week in Italy.

England

14.05.2023

With the help of our friends Bren and Steve, we flew Singapore Airlines to the UK with a 2-hour stop over in Singapore.  Enjoyed our iconic brandy and dry, movies and got some sleep on the second leg.  Nicolai from Alpha met us at Heathrow Airport and we were whisked away to Church Farm, near Bosham where our camper ‘Lefty’ is stored.  Fantastic to see ‘Lefty’ our little home on wheels, waiting for us.  ‘He’s an amazing machine, an ‘oldie’ but a ‘goodie’ and our home away for the last 9-years.  Clothes unpacked then off to Hayling Island 15kms away and our friend Mary who has her brother and nephew staying with her.  Got the 5 star treatment from them all and had such a fun time. Full on cleaning and organising Lefty, food shopping, (Brexit regulations include no milk or animal products to be taken out of the UK) and lots of fun and laughs.  We slept in Lefty on Mary’s drive and 4am starts to the day weren’t unusual as we both had a bout of jet lag. Kept losing our phones, wallets, glasses and each other…….

17.05.2023

After ‘sad’ farewells we ‘hit the road’ and took the A27 passed Arundel Castle onto the A26 to Newhaven to catch the ferry to Dieppe tomorrow.  Very pleased to see that the overnight coastal camp where we’d stayed in previous years was still up and running.  The camp is up the road from The Hope Pub, £10 per night and handy to the Ferry Terminal.
Found a Co-Op store on our walk and headed to the Pub for dinner. Steak dinner looked great but disappointed.

En Route To Île-de-Ré

18.05.202

Another sunny crisp day, perfect for our ferry crossing at 10.30am. Had a major glitch when our GPS failed to start. We used our phone GPS to guide us to the ferry terminal which was not ideal. Got into the crossing queue and Col managed to revive the GPS

We had a calm three hour crossing and the limestone cliffs came into view as we approached Dieppe. Interesting to note that the kind Border Control guard knew nothing about New Zealand’s bilateral six month Schengen Visa Agreement. So excited to be back in France after three years of Covid.  We followed the road running alongside the harbour and headed straight to the Decathlon store where Pam brought her new bike.  A great opportunity to practice our French with the very friendly and knowledgable people there. 

Travelled about another 6kms and found ‘La Source’ Camping in
Hautot-sur-Mer overlooking a small river.  Heated pool and ideally located to Dieppe and the beach. ACSI 19 Euros. Normandy is the largest region not to contain vineyards but is known for its cider or Calvados, soft cheeses, apples, cream and rich range of seafood.

19.05.2023

A picturesque walk from the camp to Dieppe and into the harbour.
Dieppe has been a seaside resort since 1824.  The harbour is chock-full with cafes and restaurants serving local seafood specialities.  

We went exploring but couldn’t find the little restaurant where Pam had her birthday in 2018. It’s probably been re named.  Behind the harbour there was a big ‘Alpine Car’ Convention in the Market area next to the beach.

20.05.2023

Another perfect day and we headed towards Le Mans.  We’re
avoiding motorways and staying on scenic ‘D’ roads wherever possible.  Skirted Rouen with its soaring Gothic Cathedral as we passed through a rural area of pastures, picturesque little villages, wheat fields, orchards, stud farms and half timbered houses.  

We missed our chosen Aires   ‘La Suze-sur-Sarthe’ and found an alternative, Roëzé- sur-Sarthe just up the road along the River Sarthe.  Went on a recce and discovered that this cute, quiet little village with its automatic bread delivery machine turned out to be not as it seemed.  A rock band had set up on a boat on the Sarthe and we joined the crowds to listen to great rock belting out over the water.

'Back To The Rock’ were amazing!

Good roads, 4-hour drive.

21.05.2023

Up early and ‘hit the road’ heading towards La Rochelle and our destination, Ile de Ré. Popped into the Loire and through pretty La Flèche (has an ‘Aires’).  Noted a bike ride from Cuon to La Flèche 32kms.  We’re 80kms from Samur/Angers.  Stopped to have a picnic and a quick look at Longué with its Cathedral.  We were surprised to see crowds enjoying a trolley derby, the track running around the Cathedral. 

Caught a glimpse of beautiful St Jean-de-Thouas as we neared La     Rochelle and Ile-de-Ré.  

Île-de-Ré

Île de Ré spans just 30km from its most easterly and westerly points, and just 5km at its widest section.  The little island has 10 villages and 60 miles of bike paths criss-crossing all over the island.  We love the biking, the oysters and the colourful shuttered villages where you can enjoy a beer or a coffee.

Eight euros over the bridge and onto the Island and a massive grid lock of traffic as people were leaving the Island after the long weekend.  We avoided most of the traffic and found a camp at the north western end of the Island.
However, we had a mishap about 10-minutes before the camp.  Coming from a different direction we missed the ‘beware of a big road hump’ warning sign.  Too late, we were travelling too fast and its impact caused the back cupboard to open, a jar dislodged and fell onto our glass gas hob cover, smashing it to smithereens….  Glass everywhere !  A few expletives followed!!

Les Portes-en-Ré campsite is on the northern tip of the island.  Peaceful with good facilities, great location - close to the bike trails and only 200m from the beach.
ASCI 22.32 Euros. We met Anne and Jerry, an English couple from Weston- super- Mare, in their ‘posh’ kitted out VW.  Just as we set in for the night, down came the rain, the first we’ve seen since leaving New Zealand.

22.05.2023

The day cleared late morning and 

we headed out for a beach walk through the quaint little village of Les Portes-en-Ré with its flowery alleys. 

As normal the shops are shut for lunch and will reopen around 7pm.  The rocky Plage-du-Lizay is popular with shellfish gatherers. 

23.05.2023

A strong wind today but Pam can’t

wait to try her new bike so
ignoring the wind, we ‘hit the criss-crossing bike paths’.  Headed through the woods, across the salt marshes to the Lighthouse, ‘Phares des Baleines’.  The salt marshes are not only a sanctuary to wild birds but salt farming ensured the prosperity of the region until the nineteenth century.   Around forty producers remain on the Island.  They also serve for oyster and fish farming.
We wandered the cafes and touristy little shops then headed back through farmer’s fields and pony paddocks to the harbour town and old salt capital of Ars-en-Ré. 

Onward to Saint Martin-de-Ré 

crossing the moated entrance and welcomed by shaggy haired donkeys grazing in the reserve below. This breed of donkey can only be found on Île-de-Ré.  Into the pretty, uncrowded, upmarket village with its small port in the centre.  

The harbour and streets are lined shops, restaurants with outdoor terraces, cafes and ice cream vendors.  Headed to our favourite café, ‘Bar Au Lever du Soleil’ with its bright yellow awning overlooking the port and good wifi.  Enjoyed a great cup of coffee, its fantastic to be back!  A strong wind persisted on the ride back to camp.  52kms.

24.05.2023 

Enjoying the wind as we strolled passed rugged, rocky windswept beaches to the sheltered bay, Plage de la Patache.  Sat on the seat overlooking the bay as we ate our baguette watching the fisherman emptying their fish hauls onto trucks.  Continued our walk on a track overlooking the salt marshes and the cranes,  passed the tiny ‘service libra’ honesty box stalls’ selling ‘salt and flour de sal’ bringing us back to Les Portes-en-Ré and our camp. 

Later in the afternoon Pam went on a petite promenade to the shops with Elizabeth and Claude from Fontainebleau and their dog ‘Garden’.  Their Guinea Pig, ‘Mega’ also camps with them. 

25.05.2023

A run and a walk, then chores and a stock up.  Great weather for drying washing.

26.05.2023

Off to eat oysters and prawns at our

favourite ‘dégustation’ about
3kms from Saint Martin-de-Ré.  The bike trails took us passed ‘Maison-du-Fier’ Nature Conservatory, over the bridge where bird watchers have set up their cameras alongside the marsh reserve Lilleau des Niges.  The Island is a paradise for birds with 218 species recorded. Onward through the pony farms, vineyards, farmers fields, salt marshes and through the harbour town of Ars-en-Ré.  Into the the forest and onto the waterfront track to ‘Ré Ostréa Dégustation’. 

Just as characteristic and fabulous 

as we remembered it!  We
slurped oysters and devoured the large prawns washed down with a glass of Ré Ostréa dry white overlooking the water.  Delicious!  32 euros.  Next up coffee so onward to Saint-Martin-de-Ré and ‘Bar Au Lever du Soleil’.

After coffee we strolled the cobbled back streets to the touristy craft shops and racks of clothes. We passed the huge preserved citadel which evidently was  a gathering point for convicts sentenced to hard labour in French Guyana, Cayenne and New Caledonia as they waited to board their boats between 1873 and 1938.  Back onto the harbour following the path around the port to the 17th Century ramparts circling the town.  What an amazing day!  41kms.

27.05.2023

Another beautiful day and we headed to the Market up the road in Les Portes-en-Ré.  We brought a baguette ‘tradition’ from the ‘Boulangerie’, and wandered the market.   
In the afternoon we joined Elisabeth, Claude and Garden at ‘Plage de la Loge’ about 4kms away from our camp.  Garden went swimming and Elisabeth paddled.  A nice surprise to see the transformation of this rugged and rocky beach now sandy and a good swimming beach at high tide. Back to camp and Mr Remoska cooking a roast which we enjoyed eating outdoors.

28.05.2023

Biked to Loix on the northern coast

through the marshes and
vineyards.  It’s another long weekend and the tracks are more crowded than usual so we were extra careful as some people didn’t look where they were going.  We turned off to Loix and wound around a twisty track above the salt marshes to the pretty little harbour.  Evidently, Loix has the last tide mill which was used to clean the salt before grinding. 

Continued on our bikes to the village

centre with its old Church, St-Catherine, outdoor eateries, artists, and wine tasting stalls.  Found an amazing robot expo, all sorts of handmade robots, very clever and unique.  No photos allowed.  Strolled the narrow cobble streets with white houses, colourful shutters and flowers. Found a nice sandy beach about 2kms away where people were swimming.  The camp was just up the road from the beach.

On our homeward ride we stopped 

to explore Ars-En-Ré, marked by the
slender black and white bell tower of St. Etienne church which we could see the top peaking out on some of our rides.  Lots of outdoor eateries and cafes in the centre and around the harbour.  Back to camp and a swim in the pool which opened today.  Lovely and refreshing.  40kms.

29.05.2023

It’s a stunning day today and its our last day here.  The day started with a French lesson with Elizabeth and Claude which is always fun and Elizabeth preparing a chicken casserole, the French way, on her ‘cocotte minute’ (pressure cooker) she brought from the supermarket.  It smelt good!  

Some prep for our departure tomorrow and some reading.

En RouteToTours

30.05.2023

 

We're heading to Tours today to catch up with Pen and Ian.
We’ve had a fabulous time on Ile-de-Ré and met some wonderful people!  After ‘au revoirs’ we travelled through the vineyards and a couple of traffic jams over the bridge and off the Island.  Headed north following the ‘D’ roads as much as possible.  Busy traffic around Niort (in the Marais Poitevin region, we were there in 2016) and into the countryside passing fields of wheat and baby sunflower plants.  Into the beautiful Loire, a favourite of ours!  

Extravagant castles and fortresses sprinkle the Loire Valley, there are hundreds of chateaux, now a Unesco World Heritage Site.  Vineyards and dégustation and caves, not to mention the great biking trails. 

Through pretty François and to the

outskirts of the medieval town
of Thouars where we stocked up at Super U supermarket.  Super U have everything you need and more!  Decided to find an ‘Aires’ for the night as we’re only about one and half hours from Tours.  
Found Montreuil-Bellay Aires in an ideal location with a toilet and park along the River Thouet just up the road.  Montreuil-Bellay is located on the Vélo Francette cycle route and on the cycle touring route ‘Vignobles et Vallée du Thouet.  There are eight villages in the area to explore.  

We could see the beautiful castle 

overlooking the park as we

walked into the pretty town.  The feudal castle of Montreuil-Bellay was built around 1025.  It has fortified moats, ramparts and underground passages.  It's fully furnished and is also a wine estate with daily tastings.  Explored the medieval town then followed a track along the Thouet back to our aires.  Our Aires is now full.  To note:  There is also a fabulous camp next to our aires, Camping Paradis with swimming pool.

 
31.05.2023

Up early and onward to Tours.

(We were last here in 2017).  
A beautiful drive through the Loire countryside.  Through Les Trois-Moutiers and passing little stone hamlets, wheat and corn fields, through forests and passing vineyards and ‘Maisons des Vins’ welcoming visitors for tasting.  

Glimpses of stunning chateaux, its wonderful to be back!  

The Loire Valley and Tours

Across the Vienne via Chinon though

the outskirts of Tours to Vouvray 
and Camping 'Le Bec de Cisse' about 10kms from Tours.  A small characteristic camp along the River Cisse with great facilities, nice pitches with shade, free wifi around reception and located on the Les Châteaux à Vélo cycle route.  There are around 300kms of marked trails. 16 euros.

Set up camp and

took the cycle path along the Loire over the bridge into Tours ‘centre ville’.  Headed to the Gothic Cathédrale St-Gatien and continued exploring on our bikes.  Great fun! Tours is a hub of ‘castle country’ and a vibrant student city with lots of eateries, bars, 18th century boulevards and parks.  Headed to  the Old Town which encircles Place Plumereau (know as Plum) with its outdoor eateries and half-timber houses.  A nice ride back to camp along the Loire.  20kms

01.06.2023

Headed into Tours along the cycle path to catch up with Pen and Ian, very excited!

Found their block of apartments next to the

SCNF.  Ian met us at the lift

and up we went to the second floor.  Fantastic to see them both and what a cute little apartment with a ‘monkey theme’.  Its in a great location and fitted out with everything including a washing machine.  

After hugs and chats we headed into the ‘centre ville’ and made our way to the Old Town just in time to catch lunch.  Steak, salad and fries washed down with a chilled local beer.  47 euros. 

Lots of catching up and exploring.  

We needed to find an Optician
and Pen and Ian needed groceries. so we decided to meet up later.  Headed off to Optic 2000 to replace Col’s unrepairable frames.  What a great, friendly service and everything done promptly!   Met Pen and Ian for coffee at a little Brasserie near their apartment.  20kms

02.06.2023

Biking to Amboise today!  (We

were last here in 2017).

  Up early and took the cycle path into Tours to collect Pen and Ian who hired bikes.  18 euros each.  Headed  back on the cycle path via Vouvray and onto the ‘velo à Loire’ cycle path, through busy Montlouis-sur-Loire, characteristic Lussault-sur-Loire and into the vineyards and wheat fields.  Amazing!  This is what France is all about!

Onward to Amboise and a little cafe

with an outdoor terrace next
to the Chateau.  Yummy cheese burgers, salad and fries with coke and lots of ice hit the spot.  27 euros. 

On to see Leonardo da Vinci’s 

residence in the grand manor
house Le Clos Lucé.  He took up residence in 1516 and spent his time sketching and dreaming up new contraptions.  

Down to Chateau Guillard built in 1496 by King Charles VIII after returning from the first campaign and conquest of Italy.  Onward to the beautiful 15th-century Château Royale d’Amboise overlooking the town on the southern bank of the Loire.  It was the childhood home of Charles VIII and the final resting place of Leonardo da Vinci.  

On our return trip, Pen and Ian came back to our camp for coffee and to meet ‘Lefty’.  He’s a very popular ‘boy’.  70kms.

03.06.2023

Cooked up a yummy lunch and had

a picnic in the park at the back
of our camp pitch, then did the blog.  
Late afternoon we biked into Tours and met Pen and Ian at the little Brasserie near Pen and Ian’s apartment.  It’s Saturday evening and there is a great vibe, lots of people around.  We strolled along the tram-lined streets, passed the bric à brac shops, boulevards and little eateries to what we called, the eating quarter’. 

Two streets lined with funky bars,

bistros and little restaurants, the
area is buzzing!

Pen and Ian decided on Italian and ‘La Tosca’ ticked all the boxes.  We'd eaten earlier so just had a drink.  A fabulous fun evening!  

13.50 euros. (enough for two).

Big hugs to Pen and Ian as they are leaving for Bordeaux tomorrow.  We headed back to pick up our bikes.  #### Our bikes are no longer there, they’ve been stolen.  We headed to the police station, as it was Saturday night they couldn’t do much but they gave us a web address so  we could file a report.  We caught a taxi back to Vouvray and our camp.   Dimitri, the very kind and efficient camp manager offered to fill out the report on our behalf.  

04.06.2023

Col went to the Police Station in Vouvray ‘centre ville’ to book an appointment with the Police.
It was a chores and catch up on the blog day.

05.06.2023

Up early and off to the Police Station

up the road.  All details were taken
and we received a Police Report which we can use for insurance.  A friendly and efficient service.  We noted the Policeman locked the doors when we arrived and left.  A sign of the times! Off to explore of Vouvray.

06.06.2023

A morning walk and run and coffee.  In the evening we had drinks and lots of laughs with Helen and John from Yorkshire.  We also met Molly.  We'll keep in touch.

Heading to Blois tomorrow.  Our first stop, Decathlon.